Hi 👋 all, Landed in the afternoon today in Geneva after a long journey with a connecting flight, and it was totally worth it because of a GTG with Anita Porchet, THE enamel queen ! 👸

 

Links to previous GTG with Anita that explained her journey.

www.watchprosite.com

www.watchprosite.com


Knowing that I will be paying enamel homage, naturally I was double-wristed with her babies while traveling.  After arriving hotel and then a quick shower to get refreshed, I headed over to Palexpo to see Anita who had had to meet big collectors and brands.  We had a relaxing chat regarding personal and horological topics over non-alcoholic drinks.  She generously shared her history with Patek and views on the enamel industry. 


Her relationship with Patek started around 1994 with Mr. Philippe Stern engaged her for a specific project.  She mentioned that Mr. P. Stern had always wanted to preserve rare handcrafts from the distance past.  Prior to their business relationship, the famed enameler Suzanne Rohr made many amazing enamel pieces for Mr. Stern.  Based on articles I read, quite a few of Ms. Rohr's pieces went to his private collection and/or the Patek museum.  He is truly an adamant supporter of rare handcrafts.


In terms of artistic creation, Mr. Stern gave her a lot of freedom.  Since Thierry took over control, he has continued with the same philosophy as his father.  Enamel Queen said that she enjoys working with Patek the most !

 

For the Rousseau enamel lion, a rare handcrafts staff at Patek, who is a big fan of Henri Rousseau, suggested that Basel 2017 should have limited editions based on his paintings.  Anita then did her own research and came up with 4 themes from two of his paintings.  Here is the link to my original post about this series.   www.watchprosite.com  


On the horological enamel industry, Anita feels that the art is unfortunately being replaced by some brands via high tech and machines.  She gave an example for Flinqué enamel which involves guilloche then enameling.  The traditional way for her is to apply the enamel liquid by hand after manually making the liquid.  Thereafter she puts the dial in the kiln to bake and timing is based on her experience.  Sometimes dials are wasted due to manual labor.  Imperfections are also an integral part of the beauty of handmade enamel dials and she is proud of the results.  Nowadays some brands use machines to mix the liquid based on technical formulae, have machines to apply the liquid to the dial, and utilize engineering to time the firings in the kiln.  Resulting dials are perfect with wastage minimized which is great for commercial reasons.  However, to Anita, these machine made enamel dials have no soul and I totally agree with her !  I could see sadness on her face and hear disappointment from her voice as she showed her disapproval. 

 

After hearing this unfortunate trend, I felt very fortunate to have her enamel babies with imperfections !  On my 5131G and P, under the loupe I can see and appreciate them.  On the lion dial which is more complicated in terms of details vs 5131G and P, I could hardly find any.  With Lion at only 8 pieces with dial signed “AP”, the workmanship is at another level and simply amazing.


What do you think about the stories and thoughts/opinion from Anita ? 


Tomorrow I will go to the Patek Salon to view rare handcrafts.  Anita told me that two of her creations will be there.  More to come !




Watch by Patek Philippe, 175th collection, Handcrafts Collection, 5089, 5089G-128


Watch by Patek Philippe, 175th collection, Handcrafts Collection, 5089, 5089G-128


Patek 5089G-052
Patek 5131G

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