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Daniel Roth 50th

 

It will not be news to many of those reading that Daniel Roth has been having a bit of a “moment” over the past few years, with collectors [re-]discovering his aesthetic and work at Breguet and then at his eponymous brand (and, for those with deep pockets, the subsequent pieces at Jean Daniel Nicolas).

So it is rare indeed to find a piece that not only dates from his time at “Daniel Roth” but was also created - and signed! - by Roth himself during his time there at a price that is not astronomical; it is doubly rare to find it in fantastic condition and with the certificate and letter to the first buyer (signed by Roth) accompanying it.

Watch by Bulgari, Daniel Roth, Daniel Roth 50th

This is the watch he chose to design to celebrate his 50th birthday - after having been at Breguet for 14 years (1974 - 1989) and then at “Daniel Roth” for 6 (1989 - 1995). He was already very much recognised as a master watchmaker - and had many iconic pieces to his name.

For his 50th birthday piece, he choose a steel 31x36mm case (in the iconic ellipsocurvex shape), with a hand guilloché salmon dial, central seconds and date.

A comparaively simple watch, showing off everything he has learnt and made without complication or complexity. He made (of course) 50 of these, hand-signing the rotor of each numbered piece.

Watch by Bulgari, Daniel Roth, Daniel Roth 50th

In some ways, this the platonic ideal of a Daniel Roth watch: everything he is known for on display without anything else extraneous (and he clearly agreed, having chosen this piece specifically to mark the milestone).

Watch by Bulgari, Daniel Roth, Daniel Roth 50th

I was delighted to have got this in the post today - and look forward to wearing it for many years to come.

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