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NWA — Finally added a proper dress watch to the collection . . .

 



The Chopard L.U.C. 1860 in Lucent Steel


For more than a dozen years, I’ve worked as a management consultant primarily in large, complex industrial plants — environments where dressing up is rarely part of the job. Naturally, my collection has leaned heavily toward sport watches — especially re-editions with clear historical roots.

 

Over the last couple of years, however, I’ve been seriously contemplating adding a true dress watch. That turned out to be harder than expected. Brands have been overwhelmingly focused on sport models, and the number of compelling dress watches — at least at an obtainable price point — turned out to be far smaller than I anticipated.


Given my appreciation for re-editions with real lineage, the L.U.C 1860 quickly rose to the top of the list:


I first saw it shortly after its debut at Watches and Wonders 2023, during an event at the Chopard boutique on Fifth Avenue. At the time, my attention was firmly on the Alpine Eagle XPS, which I eventually acquired later that year — and the L.U.C 1860 quietly slipped off my radar.

That changed last April, when I had the chance to see it again in the flesh. Some of you may remember my post comparing the L.U.C 1860 with the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier (Chopard - Comparing Two Exceptional Chopard L.U.C Pieces: The Poinçon de Genève L.U.C 1860 vs. the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier . . .). That comparison ultimately clarified things for me.

The L.U.C 1860 checked every box: a historically meaningful re-edition, beautifully restrained proportions, and a stainless steel case that aligns perfectly with my generally casual style while still functioning as a proper dress watch.

Beneath the surface, the L.U.C 1860 delivers where it matters most — a micro-rotor movement (Calibre 96.40-L) finished to Geneva Seal standards and chronometer-certified by COSC. It’s a reminder that this watch isn’t just about aesthetics or nostalgia, but serious watchmaking executed without compromise.

Yet one thing gave me pause — the empty space beneath the subdial where the date window existed on the original model. I wished there were a small indice or visual anchor to occupy that space, even while preserving the original architecture.

In the end, I had to accept that perfection is an unrealistic goal. I’ve made exceptions before — and this was worth making one more.

 

Especially now, as more brands seem to be following the same playbook: platinum cases and ever more exorbitant pricing. Against that backdrop, the L.U.C 1860 represents something increasingly rare — restraint, history, and true horological substance.


This is, without question, the right dress watch for my collection — one I expect to enjoy for many years to come.

Of course, you knew this was coming — on the wrist, over a cup of latte art.😉

HAGWE!🥂

Best,
Mark

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