SJX
[Purist]
8540
Part IV: Strap and buckle
A small complication
Suitably wide and thick for a watch this size, the 24 mm strap is alligator and made in Austria (by Hirsch I would think). It is padded and high quality if a little unimaginative in colour.
Cartier deployant clasps are distinctive in style and structure. They have a trademark “C” shaped buckle as well as a system of looping the strap back on itself leaving the strap looking seamless when on the wrist, with no end poking out. This is the latest iteration of the Cartier buckle, with loops on each side. The original Cartier buckle designed by Louis Cartier used fixed length straps, and the second generation had a loop only on one side.
The downside of this configuration is twofold. First, it requires gymnastic dexterity to adjust and size, particularly when the strap is new and stiff. Fortunately adjustment of the strap can be done at the boutique where the staff members are nimble fingered. Second, the strap needs to be a very precise length as if it is too long the clasp does not sit properly centred on the bottom of the wrist. Because the strap loops inward, the length of adjustment is limited by the length of the strap on the inside as well as the thickness of the strap.
The upside of this complicated strap and buckle are the clean lines of the strap and clasp.
The clasp is polished with rounded edges and while of good quality, could have been more substantial and detailed, in keeping with the styling and finish of the case. For instance Cartier delivers the Santos 100 on a clasp with screws echoing the screws on the bezel of the watch. A clasp designed specifically for the Calibre de Cartier would be minimal incremental cost but be tremendously more attractive.
This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-05-16 00:27:30
The Calibre de Cartier - World's First Review
Launched at SIHH 2010, the Calibre de Cartier is a totally new design for Cartier and this is the world's first review of it. This in-depth review is split in five parts for easy reading. Review of the Calibre de Cartier By SJX May 2010 The watch being re...
Part I: Case
A whole new look I love the look and finish of the case. The design, especially the prominent lugs, is somewhat reminiscent of the Gerald Genta Gefica but more refined; more city than Safari. At 42 mm the watch is not enormous but possesses presence owing...
Thanks for this report !
Fantastic photos as usual. Great Work Always a pleasure to read your articles! Thanks for this sharing. I am a bit suspricious for this Cartier. For me a Cartier is a watch like no other. A tank, a tortue and more recentyle a Ballon Bleu are unique watche...
Interesting points you make
First, Cartier wanted a case that is totally different and distinctly masculine. They succeeded in that. Second, I agree that it does not look like a Cartier in terms of how the consumer sees Cartier today. But with time, and with line extensions to beef ...
Hope for Cartier you will be right
As for me, I keep my point of view for the moment, I see a watch not a Cartier. The Santos 100 was a good example to succeed in doing a casual watch with keeping Cartier style. The mystery version is just amazing. So modern, so Cartier at the same time. C...
Part II: Dial
The new look continued Of the entire watch, the dial design leaves me the most conflicted feelings. It is a strong and distinctive design that incorporates some stylistic elements that are conventionally associated with Cartier. Though overall design is h...
re date
I was thinkiung more allong the lines of UTC, in fact it could have been. Parhaps with the sub secconds as date? But think a "pano date" display might have been intreguing to. Might hab\ve been to bold though ...
The 1904 MC will be the base calibre for many other movements
so what is mention is possible..... - SJX
Part III: Movement 1904 MC
A subtle landmark Named the 1904 MC for the year Louis Cartier created a wristwatch for pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont, this is the first automatic movement to be made in-house by Cartier. With the exception of a handful of parts like the balance wheel and h...
most intriguing
I need to soak it in a little more, but I rather like it so far. Thanks! _john
2 versions of 1904-PS MC movement
Hi SJX, You mentioned that, " Cartier has since switched to the v.2 movement for all Calibre de Cartier models, regardless of case metal." I went to the the Cartier boutique and several AD and saw the v. 1 movement on the all steel version. I called Carti...
That must be earlier production batch
Last month I was told by Cartier Paris (HQ, not boutique), that production of all Calibre de Cartier would contain V2, though early batches used the V1 for the steel version. Each production batch is quite large though, hundreds at least, so there are lik...
Worth waiting
SJX, Thanks for the response (and thanks for the amazing review)! I am very much interested in purchasing the steel version but the one thing that is holding me back is the fact that there are two versions and I feel that v. 1 might be inferior to v. 2. D...
The difference is negligible
There is no performance difference between the two movements. Personally the only substantive difference is the C-shaped regulator, not that it works any better than the ETAchron, but because it looks better. Simply put, the v1 is in no way inferior and y...
Agreed
I have to agree, the C-shaped is much nicer looking and distinctly Cartier. I wonder why they didn't start production with the C-shaped regulator. Do you think it would be expensive to replace the ETAchron regulator with the C-shaped regulator when they a...
My conversations with Cartier
indicate that they will not upgrade movements from v1 to v2, unless the customer specifically requests for it. I will find out the cost and get back to you. - SJX
versions
Hi SJX I bought the Calibre in Panama a few days ago as a birthday present... How can you tell which version of the 2904 caliber did I get? Is there a v1 or v2 printed somewhere? Many thanks... This is my first Cartier watch and can wait for my birthday t...
v1 and v2
This is the v1 movement with the v-shaped regulator index, it is the part adjacent to the purple jewel with a screw in between the two prongs of the "V". The v2 movement has a regulator index that is shaped in a "C". - SJX...
Part IV: Strap and buckle
A small complication Suitably wide and thick for a watch this size, the 24 mm strap is alligator and made in Austria (by Hirsch I would think). It is padded and high quality if a little unimaginative in colour. Cartier deployant clasps are distinctive in ...
Part V: Variants and conclusion
Variants This watch is also available with a black dial and also in steel with a gold bezel or entirely in 18 ct rose gold. Models set with diamonds are also available. I find the silver dial variant being reviewed here is the most attractive, because of ...
Great writeup JX...
thanks for sharing your in-depth and first-hand experience with this new caliber. Wondering about something though. Can't help but think it would be nicer if available with rubber strap? I think it would add tremendously value and versatility to the alrea...
A rubber strap?
That is a good idea. The same thought crossed my mind but being only water-resistant to 30 m a rubber strap may give owners the wrong idea. However the folks from Cartier read this forum studiously so I am sure some of them are reading your suggestion rig...
Right on that...
it really might give owners the wrong idea. Its great that Cartier folks are reading this and I do feel that with your almost daily updates on this brand and its new direction, have a feeling that Cartier is only a very short time away from their goals of...
Great report, I knew you would like it
Very interesting SJX, to read your extensive users experience with the watch, especially since you wear it now for quite some weeks. The model has grown on me a lot, while I am more a 'historic' kinda Cartier man. In fact it's, in my opinion, the first wa...
That was one of the main intentions of the watch
to make a watch that is clearly masculine, a move away from the formal and sometimes feminine look that is associated with Cartier. And regardless of whether one likes the aesthetics, the designers succeeded very well in that aim. - SJX
I was impressed, until...
I saw "30m water resistance" ? Sorry but this is not a sports watch, its hardly even useful for daily wear.... A screwdown crown and at least 100m is a must for me if one is to call it a sports watch... Epic fail by Cartier here on what is otherwise an ex...
Epic failure? I disagree
30 m is more than enough for daily wear. And it will do all right in a pool as well, though the strap will not. Water-resistance to 100 m or more means a watch is good for diving and snorkelling, and that is a requirement that is not really needed by 90% ...
30m is not safe for swimmingpool
If I told customers that I would get alot of returned watches and angry customers Its so easy to make a screwdowncrown, don't see why this is omitted in an otherwise fine watch.
Why is a screwdown crown required for WR?
If the o-ring is axially loaded, the thread does nothing?
Great report SJX...
Thanks for sharing your impressions and numerous photos with those of us that have not yet had the pleasure of seeing this new model in person. I am definitly looking forward to seeing it in person hopefully in the next few weeks. I like this watch far mo...
You hit the nail on the head
I was wondering if someone would raise that point. Cartier product development is sophisticated and nuanced, so a Calibre de Cartier Seatimer or something like that is a distinct possibility. Imagine how it would look with a turning bezel and screw down c...
I agree with SJX
You really do see it right Dino and it's certainly a good suggestion to beef up the water resistant, but on the other hand, I never understand all the fuss about the water resistant of a watch. I know so many guys with one or more Panerai watches, but non...
Water Resistance
Hi Geo, I agree there is a good percentage of watch owners that basically drive desks all week long (myself included) so water resistance really is not important. To be honest, I've rinsed my Submariner in the sink to clean it, but thats the only time it ...
The Seatimer Calibre
Everyone has chimed in with valuable suggestions on what a sportier Calibre de Cartier could look like. Perhaps there is already something like that in the pipeline. :-) - SJX
Very nice review SJX...
...of a handsome looking watch imo. I especially like the unique looking crown, crafted to look like a heptagon "nut", which gives the watch a less formal, mechanical look. My only criticism is that the numbers on the subdial could be a little thinner and...
Impressive write-up, SJX!
Great post, SJX! I enjoyed reading your thoughts. There is a goodly amount of Cartier DNA in this piece that makes it very attractive. I think it will be successful for them. Naturally, as I'm sure you can guess, the date window is like a horrible scar on...
Thanks Daos. Good to see we agree on the date.
Other Calibre de Cartier models will be unveiled in the future and the date just may change. - SJX
Love the range.
Especially in gold. Cartier have really done themselves proud with these pieces. Great post. Thanks for putting it together, SJX.
The rose gols with silver dial is particularly striking
In fact I think that is the best of the whole range. - SJX
Thanks for the great review of the new Calibre de Cartier SJX!
I really like the case shape and lugs. The massive curved lugs looks like the watch will wear extremely comfortably on the wrist. However, my intiial impression (I haven't seen the Calibre de Cartier in person yet) is that the dial is a tad too busy for m...
ADLC is an interesting idea
Cartier has committed significant resources to ADLC to the extent of building a facility to coat the cases of the Santos 100 Carbon. Given the investment ADLC will definitely find its way into other products. - SJX
My thoughts to
Roger Dubuis was my first thought as well, thanks for pickking a better picture than i could find. Quite a departure for Catier, even with some of the iconic details. It does not imho quite get there. Mind you i thought the sam of the Roadster before seei...
The Calibre is far more attractive than the Roadster
in my opinion at least. But do share your thoughts once you have seen the Calibre in the metal. - SJX
Hands
Thanks for your review, I enjoyed reading through the article, and find a point where my opinion differs with your own. I find the size of the hands on this watch well proportioned, and feel larger hands would spoil the watch, not enhance it. Rishad