Cartier

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Hands on review of the Cartier Ronde Croisière (stainless steel - slate dial)

For a general brand like Cartier, each market segment plays a significant role. And the new Ronde Croisière collection, which is coming in this end of year brings us a new evidence of this established fact. The aim of this collection is to be inserted into the space between the different Solo watches, the real entry-level of Cartier and more emblematic pieces like Calibre or Ballon Bleu. This space, which may seem to be relatively thin, corresponds more or less to the prices around 4.000 euros and in an extremely competitive watchmaking market, Cartier has to be present to a greater degree.




Ronde Croisière also sheds light on two strategic directions of Cartier. The first one is the use of the 1847 MC movement which was unveiled in the context of Clé in the beginning of the year. This movement aims to gradually replace the ETA movements that are still used in several watches of the curent catalogue. If its use in Clé seemed surprising in terms of  consistency of the collection (the 1904 MC movement that I consider as superior thanks to its double-barrel and technical solutions powers less expensive watches than Clé), it is however perfect for animating the different versions of Ronde Croisière. The second strategic direction is the come-back to a more casual style for Cartier, following the trend initiated by the Calibre Diver and sorely lacking since the withdrawal of legendary watches such as the Santos Carbone or the Pasha.




Ronde Croisière was first unveiled in the US market at the end of the summer what gave me the opportunity to discover it on pictures. I must admit that at this point, I was not so seduced. The opportunity to wear for a few days the slate dial version allowed me to revise my judgment and I now consider Ronde Croisière as a pretty successful watch even though it is not without any reproach.

In a sense, Ronde Croisière, available in 3 versions (steel and white dial, steel and slate dial, two-tone and slate dial) is a synthesis watch between different inspirations but which nevertheless manages to define its own identity. The case has a diameter (42mm) on thickness (9,7mm)  relatively high ration what gives it a slender look. Completed with the crown set with a black synthetic spinel cabochon, the case is comfortable to wear, elegant and reminds me if I forget the lugs, the Rotonde collection which is a good reference. Roman numerals and the peripheral minutes scale  are traditional elements  of style of Cartier and when combined with the case and the crown, leave no doubt about the brand of the watch... even if you hide the brand name on the dial! The Cartier atmosphere is easily recognizable although Ronde Croisière offers several original features.



The first of these original features is the steel bezel with an ADLC coating. This rather thick bezel, slightly inclined, reminds me a diver watch one but it can't rotate. It gives a sportier look to the watch and above all, it greatly reduces the dial opening, thus reducing the perceived size. Its anthracite color blends perfectly with the slate dial while the contrast with the white dial is for me  less attractive. The inclination of the bezel is a kind of starting point of the domed glass curves and I love the role that this glass plays in the aesthetic achievement of Ronde Croisière. However, the glass tends to capture too many reflections what impairs the readability of the dial.



The second originality consists of the two main hands and the second hand. The sword-shaped hands are hollowed to provide some visual lightness while the  "Lollipop" second hand, also hollowed, playfully animates the dial. These hands, which don't beart any luminescent material, nicely combine with the Roman numerals in relief and reinforce the relaxed atmosphere of the watch. However, they  moderately stand out from the background of the anthracite dial and time reading can be difficult in some situations. The absence of luminescent material on the hands and on the bezel opens a debate. While Ronde Croisière claims a less formal approach and tends to be adapted to any situation, I believe that it wouldn't have been unconsistent to get legible needles in the dark.  And even if the watch is not a diver, it still offers a waterproofness of 100 meters. In that case, why deprive ourselves of these luminescence and rotating bezel? I think that Cartier did not want to create a kind of "duplication" of the Calibre Diver and to risk cannibalizing sales of the latter. Too bad Cartier did not go to the logical conclusion in making Ronde Croisière truly functional in all circumstances.



The latest originality is the particularly successful calfskin strap. Cartier gave it an aspect "Kevlar fabric" that I find suitable to the Ronde Croisière style. Its comfort and flexibility provide the pleasure to wear the watch and this, especially since the folding  clasp allows  a fine double adjustment. However, I am not fully satisfied with this clasp. Certainly, once we understand  how to close it without forcing,  it becomes more pleasant to handle. But it continues to spoil the bracelets that are marked by the specific Cartier locking system  which forces the strap ends to go inward. Also, if these ends are too long, they tend to laterally move and to become visible beneath the main part of the bracelet what is not aesthetically beautiful. The comfort on the wrist meets our expectation and the base and thin height of the case contribute to it a lot, but the folding clasp is clearly for me an element to be improved.



If the 1847 MC caliber is not technically at the same level as the 1904 MC and its double-barrel which ensures a better torque, however it works very effectively with an excellent winding efficiency. It worked with accuracy  when I had the opportunity to wear Ronde Croisière. Although I regret a too short power reserve by today's standards (42 hours), it is appropriate to the context of the watch and of its price. This movement plays an important strategic role for Cartier and I am convinced that it will behave with reliability since the main objective of the Manufacture is to lower as much as possible the failure rate and to be among the best brands of the industry... and Cartier has the means of its ambitions. The  1847 MC is not visually speaking a very appealing movement, being fully oriented towards efficiency but as the Ronde Croisière caseback is solid, it does not matter.



The main asset of Ronde Croisière remains its particularly successful style. In spite of the cohabitation of elements from different worlds, the whole design is very nice and I really enjoyed wearing this watch in particular for its various shades of gray. Its appearance works with a suit or with a more casual outfit thanks to a subtle balance between elegance and sportive touch. The thinness of the polished case and the pretty shape of the lugs complete a very convincing aesthetic balance. Despite several defects (the readability under certain conditions and the very annoying folding clasp),  Ronde  Croisière is an enjoyable watch to wear when it offers its slate gray dial. Its competitive price (presumably around 4,200 euros in France for the two SS watches but to be confirmed) and the consistent use of the 1847 MC movement reinforce a positive balance that positions Ronde Croisière as a credible and attractive proposal to enter the Manufacture world of Cartier.



Pros:
+ A slender, elegant and comfortable case
+ The particularly successful anthracite dial
+ A versatile watch from the aesthetic point of view
+ A competitive price due to the brand name

Cons:
- Readability in certain light conditions
- The annoying folding clasp
- It is a pity that Cartier didn't take the opportunity to reach the end of the versatility concept from the use point of view and didn't benefit from the waterproofness to add luminescent material and a rotating bezel

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