The Best Bang For Buck in Haute Horology...

May 18, 2023,18:32 PM

The Breguet Tradition line is hands down my favorite production watch available. I have bought and sold a few of them, and always regret it, so hopefully this stays with me. Previously, I owned the time-only version, but when this was offered to me at a too good to say no price, I had to jump on it. 

In my opinion, it offers the most horological bang for buck if you are buying second hand. You can find the time-only ones for ~$15,000 give or take. They are finished to the same degree as this one with the GMT function. The only difference is the GMT complication, which I am a sucker for. 

In that price range (2nd hand), it puts this watch up against simple 3 classic dress watches from the trinity & ALS. In my opinion though, this watch is the equivalent or better than watches from the big 3 that go for up to 3x what this does. 

A few details explaining why:

Quality of anglage. It’s not insanely thick like what you see from some $$$ independents, but it is well done for what it is. There are no visible machining marks left over. If you look at any Patek under 6 figures, you will definitely see machine marks. I tried to photograph this, but am somewhat limited with my iPhone. It’s much more visible under a loupe.

Guilloche by hand. Again, other competitors in this range including FP Journe, Patek and AP (offshore) stamp instead of doing proper guilloche. Breguet on the other hand, does it all properly. Multiple guilloche patterns are visible on the main dial, and then another pattern on the GMT dial around the exterior.

Interior angles. Extremely rare to find on production watches nowadays unless you are spending $75,000+. On this watch, there are a few. These are only really possible to do by hand, which is why you do not see them usually. I have one picture below of this, but very hard to get a good shot using an iPhone lol smile

Hand engraving. Breguet is quite liberal with this. On the other versions of this watch, they use hand engraving on the dial side for power reserve indications. The backside of this model has a very nicely engraved logo.

Heat blued hands. Always a nice touch, and very well done with every Breguet I have owned. Meaning they go from almost black -> blue in the right lighting. Same deal with a few of the screws.

Screwheads, sinks around screws, gold inserts on the balance, the parachute system, all beautifully done. 

Visible wheels on the front nicely done too. Can see they have been lightly beveled.

Casework. The lugs are beautifully, and very cleanly attached, and the pattern on the side of the case is excellent too.

You might see some weird artifacts in my pics, this is because I used an iPhone and liberal sharpening + noise removal in lightroom

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Comments: view entire thread


 By: Fred Le Blanc : May 18th, 2023-18:42
These Breguet😍😍😍

They're lovely pieces indeed! Thank you for the analysis!

 By: patrick_y : May 18th, 2023-19:21
Although it's surprising that you keep on buying and selling multiple times. If you're really regretting, then after a while, all this buying and selling has to have another motive or incentive, profits perhaps. That being said, thank you for your wonderf... 

Sold original to buy a benzinger, then traded back with the same friend for my gronefeld, then sold to another friend when I put a deposit down on a kari, and then this was offered to me at a great price.

 By: m2 : May 18th, 2023-19:27
Agreed RE: your comments. I think as a total package though, it's awesome. Especially in the context of the original Souscriptions from Breguet! They really nailed the movement. Only thing that could make this one better is a gold movement instead of WG. ... 

Ahh, That's One Long Ownership Chain! But perfectly logical!

 By: patrick_y : May 18th, 2023-19:36
I once met a man who was the 2nd, 4th, and 6th owner of the same car! His precious Mini Cooper. I told him he was the strangest duck I ever met. He agreed. But when he explained his life situation that necessitated the change in cars, it all made sense. H... 

LOL amazing

 By: m2 : May 18th, 2023-19:47
I will sell this one once my Kari arrives, but that's not until 2028. Also maybe if I could upgrade into the chronograph version which is incredible, but they never pop up used much so not sure that will happen. The TB would be nice too with the fusee &am... 

Truly a beautiful watch!

 By: Spangles - Dr. Tabby : May 18th, 2023-19:30
I have had my eye on one for a while. Someday for sure! This is a favorite. I've tried it on several times in boutiques. ...  

You make a great point: Breguets are incredible values on the used market.

 By: TheMadDruid : May 18th, 2023-23:54
They are as good as any brand out there.

Agree with you about the Tradition line

 By: Watchonthewrists : May 19th, 2023-12:29
Incredible value for your money imho ...  

I have always loved these models. Fascinating design and concept.

 By: Moka-Tiger (Ron) : May 19th, 2023-13:16
Unfortunately, I have old eyes, and the tiny but beautiful small dial is a strain. The whole design, though, is amazing. Wear yours in good health.