m2
617
The Best Bang For Buck in Haute Horology...
May 18, 2023,18:32 PM
The Breguet Tradition line is hands down my favorite production watch available. I have bought and sold a few of them, and always regret it, so hopefully this stays with me. Previously, I owned the time-only version, but when this was offered to me at a too good to say no price, I had to jump on it.
In my opinion, it offers the most horological bang for buck if you are buying second hand. You can find the time-only ones for ~$15,000 give or take. They are finished to the same degree as this one with the GMT function. The only difference is the GMT complication, which I am a sucker for.
In that price range (2nd hand), it puts this watch up against simple 3 classic dress watches from the trinity & ALS. In my opinion though, this watch is the equivalent or better than watches from the big 3 that go for up to 3x what this does.
A few details explaining why:
Quality of anglage. It’s not insanely thick like what you see from some $$$ independents, but it is well done for what it is. There are no visible machining marks left over. If you look at any Patek under 6 figures, you will definitely see machine marks. I tried to photograph this, but am somewhat limited with my iPhone. It’s much more visible under a loupe.
Guilloche by hand. Again, other competitors in this range including FP Journe, Patek and AP (offshore) stamp instead of doing proper guilloche. Breguet on the other hand, does it all properly. Multiple guilloche patterns are visible on the main dial, and then another pattern on the GMT dial around the exterior.
Interior angles. Extremely rare to find on production watches nowadays unless you are spending $75,000+. On this watch, there are a few. These are only really possible to do by hand, which is why you do not see them usually. I have one picture below of this, but very hard to get a good shot using an iPhone lol
Hand engraving. Breguet is quite liberal with this. On the other versions of this watch, they use hand engraving on the dial side for power reserve indications. The backside of this model has a very nicely engraved logo.
Heat blued hands. Always a nice touch, and very well done with every Breguet I have owned. Meaning they go from almost black -> blue in the right lighting. Same deal with a few of the screws.
Screwheads, sinks around screws, gold inserts on the balance, the parachute system, all beautifully done.
Visible wheels on the front nicely done too. Can see they have been lightly beveled.
Casework. The lugs are beautifully, and very cleanly attached, and the pattern on the side of the case is excellent too.
You might see some weird artifacts in my pics, this is because I used an iPhone and liberal sharpening + noise removal in lightroom