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Breguet

Hands-on with 3 Classic Breguet

 

Classique Phase de lune 7235 ref. 7235BH/0H/9V6

Among the 250th Anniversary releases that succeeded to the Souscription, this one caught my eye because of its beautiful dial.



The Breguet gold case, measuring 39 x 9.9 mm, fits nicely on the wrist.



This reference is a numbered 250-piece limited edition.



The case has a 3-part construction with polished surfaces and hand-guilloché “Quai de l’Horloge” middle.









The calibre 502.3.DRL is a new version of the 502.3 DR.1, a thin automatic movement with an off-centred rotor used in ref. 7137.



The offset oscillating weight is openworked with a large B logo, which I'm personally not fond of.



The bridges of the movement are hand-engraved with the so-called “Turgotmap depicting the Quai de l’Horloge, where Abraham-Louis Breguet’s workshops were located.




Classique Régulateur à Pivot Magnétique 7225, ref. 7225BH/0H/9V6

I was also very keen to try on this other impressive novelty.



The dial design is inspired by the Régulateur à Tourbillon, ref. 1176, created in 1809, which is displayed in the Paris Boutique.

It was Breguet’s 3rd tourbillon watch and the first with a 4-minute tourbillon regulator (instead of the classical 1-minute tourbillon).





Contrarily to its source of inspiration, the dial, in solid Breguet gold, is hand-guilloché with the “Quai de l’Horlogemotif.

The case is a bit large at 41 x 10.7 mm



At 2 o’clock: a traditional small-seconds is running. 

At 10 o’clock: the flyback Seconde d'observation (observation seconds) can be activated and reset to zero with the pusher at 8 o'clock. 

At 6 o’clock: a fan-shaped power-reserve indicator.



The Seconde d'observation complication is directly inspired by the Breguet pocket watch no. 4009, a ‘double-seconds “observation” chronograph’, or split-second stop watch, sold on 6 January 1825 to Mr Whaley. 





The mid-case is hand-guilloché with the “Quai de l’Horlogepattern.



The 10 Hz caliber 74SC features a magnetic-pivot regulating system, which nearly eliminates positional error.

The watch is rated to within ± 1 second per day, a specification much tighter than COSC, Master Chronometer, or Qualité Fleurier standards.



Bridges and plates are hand-engraved with a panoramic view of the Vallée de Joux, depicting the Manufacture in Le Chenit, the Lac de Joux, and the Dent de Vaulion rising in the distance. 



Ref. 7225 (left) and 7235 (right).




Classique Souscription 2025, ref. 2025BH/28/9W6

Finally, I wanted to try on again the Souscription, to get a good sense of how it compares with the other two watches.

My thread from last July describing my first experience with this watch can be found here: Hands-on with the Breguet Classic Souscription.



Measuring 40 x 10.8 mm, this watch sits exactly between the 39 mm 7235 and the 41 mm 7225.



And I have to say that it is my favorite of the three.



For some reason I don't know, the enamel dial and the single hand speak to me even more than the dial and complication of the 7235 and 7225 models.



Ref. 2025 (left) and 7225 (right).



The 3 Hz caliber VS00 is, for me, much more attractive than the other two calibers.



Engraved on the mainspring barrel are some of the words used by Breguet in his 1797 prospectus to describe his souscription watch:

"La disposition du Rouage, l’Echappement, le Régulateur sont si à découvert et si faciles à saisir, que tout observateur attentif peut juger d’un coup d’œil sans rien démonter de l’harmonie du travail."

In English: "The arrangement of the Gear train, the Escapement, the Regulator are so exposed and so easy to grasp, that any attentive observer can judge at a glance, without dismantling anything, the harmony of the work."



For me, the Souscription fully deserves its GPHG 2025 Aiguille d’Or Prize.




What do you think about these watches?

Do you have a favorite?

Thanks for reading.

Best, Emmanuel

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