On the subject of bevels...

Nov 25, 2024,00:58 AM
 

I heard in some of Tim Mosso's latest videos that the calibres in the Fifty Fathoms line have fully machine finished bevels. I really trust his judgement and knowledge, so this news is a bit crushing. 

I always had heard they were started mechanically and then finished off by hand. Is there any way for one to tell? I don't have a loupe, but my macro photos also didn't offer signs to me that these were fully done by machine. For example, the Speedmaster has anglage that is fully machine cut, but the marks on it are clear. I am curious what you all think or know, since this problem only came to me today as I watched some of his content...
https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/Omega-Speedmaster-Moonwatch-Lacquered-White-Dial-cal-3861-2.jpg
Comparatively, the bevels on my 1315 appear much smoother...so I don't know what to think.


In these last photos that follow, you can see there are machining marks and lack of continued, mirrored and more rounded bevels. So it appears corners are being cut, but not very visibly...but it looks like a lot of the bevelling is mirrored and rounded, which is better than not. But I've heard there are very good machines that can do excellent bevels without human help. I'm hoping this isn't one of those cases.



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The question "What counts as hand-finishing?" can have many answers

 
By: brandon.c : November 25th, 2024-01:22
One can argue that using a hand-held rotary tool to polish bevels is a form of hand-finishing (a technique used by Patek) while another may argue that the polishing should be done without power tools to be classified as hand-finishing. The term "hand fini...  

Yes, I think the hand-held buffing tool counts as hand work.

 
By: indignantdenial : November 25th, 2024-01:24
It need not be gentian wood with paste or what have you, but your point about machining marks is interesting. I think it would be nice if we had other movements to compare to from other owners' photos. This is just what I noticed on my own model. Thanks f... 

You might be interested by

 
By: quattro : November 25th, 2024-06:47
this Sjx article , where they describe the finishing of caliber 1315 in the following way: The movement decoration appears simple because it lacks contrast. The most obvious decorative element is the solid gold rotor, but even that has been dressed in a d... 

Except few independents, the majority are CNC finished

 
By: piccolochimico (aka dsgalaxy1) : November 25th, 2024-05:49
As Brandon has pointed out, the use of power tools is largely adopted and can be classified as Hand Made, though it's a misty definition unless we set some additional parameters. Hand made with power trolls tools (98% of productions) and hand made with wo... 

I believe they are finished off by hand.

 
By: m2 : November 25th, 2024-07:56
I have seen a few of these now and they looked quite hand finished to me. Actually, they seemed better done than patek or even AP. To swatch group’s credit, both Blancpain and Breguet offer amazing levels of finish at the price point!

Okay, duly noted...

 
By: indignantdenial : November 25th, 2024-17:15
I agree with you, it does seem really amazing at the price and I have heard the better than AP/Patek remark before. So this is good news.

My understanding the last few years is that FF/1315/1150 bevels have been mechanically applied for a long time now

 
By: Tim_M : November 25th, 2024-11:49
The effect is incredible, but dullness around corners led me to the same conclusion that these are not hand-finished bevels. I suspect they are created using the same technology and equipment employed on the caliber 1863 display caseback Moonwatch caliber... 

My guess is they are still done by hand with an electric buffer. If there was a machine to fully automate this process, I think the results would be more perfect 😂

 
By: Fastwong : November 25th, 2024-16:24
The corners in particular are a little inconsistent from one to the next which I would have expected to be more perfect and precise if machine guided. Additionally, if there is a fully automated machine for this I surprised this cost cut in the transition...  

Ah.

 
By: indignantdenial : November 25th, 2024-17:10
So the best explanation is right now that they're like the Speedmaster, but possibly that they're finalized by hand. Understood, thanks Tim. I tried asking the brand about it, but there was no response from them for over two weeks now. So I guess I'll tak... 

It's very possible

 
By: Tim_M : November 25th, 2024-21:41
I don't want to lead anyone astray. My videos reflect my best understanding at the time I record them, and I never embellish to make a sale. Really, it wasn't until I started taking macro still photos of the 1315 that I began to wonder whether some kind o... 

Okay. This is super interesting.

 
By: indignantdenial : November 25th, 2024-22:14
I will keep my eye out for more info over time. But you and I are in the same position: we'd just like to know the answer!

I don't doubt it!

 
By: indignantdenial : November 25th, 2024-17:16
I just wanted to know how this part of the movement is produced and whether it is by machine or not. Would add to the romanticism and align with the advertising if it was finished by hand (the handheld buffing tool counts).