Automotive

Recently, while discussing exotic travel in another thread (here: www.watchprosite.com ) I was asked to do a write up of a road trip through Dagestan. 

It is one of the more exciting trips I have done in the past years and happened before the war. It is a place difficult to describe and even more to comprehend without having seen it. Conservative and progressive at the same time, imbued with a high dose of religious tolerance, a great sense of humor, ancient history, epic landscapes, neo-modern technology, legendary wrestling, fine knives, wonderful cognac and male dancing. And driving like it's a Group B session 😁

Will probably not be able to show all but giving a small overview I can do. While travel is still possible here nowadays (no special permits were required), I guess it is a destination not currently on many tourist itineraries.

So let's begin. Entering Dagestan from Kalmykia (a story for another day, if there is interest - the only official Buddhist Repulbic in Europe and Europe's largest sand dune desert) from the direction of Artezian (the name giver of Artesian wells), the landscape initially doesn't change much - not full desert but still very arid plains.

The drive towards the capital - Makhachkala - is far from the country's most exciting road but it is quick and trouble free, albeit also full of speed cameras, so unless you know where they are or are suitably sharp eyed to detect them, it's probably best to lean back and let the miles pass. 

Enroute you will encounter Kizlyar, one of the more famous places of the republic, combining two great Dagestani traditions - knife and cognac making. As we arrived after dusk, I have no useful pictures but purchases were made (and this was the only time in my life where I subsequently managed to get both a knife and an axe through an airport X-ray scanner (it was ultimately check-in luggage but the scan is before) but that's likewise a story for another day). On the liquid front, if you ever get the opportunity to sample the Bagration XO cognac from there, it's highly recommended. The distillery has been supplying the Russian Court since 1885 and the particular model has been offered since 1994, with all cognacs inside at least 20 years old. Sadly I had to abandon the last bottle when leaving the country, as the moving company wouldn't transport any alcohol. 

We passed Makhachkala late and while the capital, I would say it is probably not the prettiest city of the republic. The final destination for the first day was Derbent, the oldest city in Europe, inhabited for over 5.000 years (not the whole period being continuous habitation). After a late dinner (the restaurant was kind enough to stay open especially for us, as we arrived past closing time), there was an early start the next morning. In addition to the old town, it is the fortress on the top of the hill presiding over the city (Derbent comes from Persian and is supposed to mean Closed Gate) that is a famous landmark. It also gives a nice view over the Caspian Sea, the world's largest lake by area (and mildly salty).

Additionally, Derbent seems to be one of the places to get some of the finest carpets outside of Hamburg in Europe. And the finest dealer is in a non-descript post-Soviet high rise...

Just outside Derbent awaits one of the more recent man-made wonders, the so called Caspian Sea Monster, or Lun, as is its original name. The thing is simply mind boggling and still has sheets on the beds and toilet paper in the toilets. The only thing removed are the cannon and antiship missiles.

A truly unique piece of naval aviation, this...

Sightseeing done, it was time for some hard driving. And as soon as you leave the coastal highway, the roads become more sinuous and the local dzigits (young warriors) start stretching their legs. Encountering a Lada Priora doing 105 mph on mountain roads is a sight to behold 😉

The weather in the mountains is quickly changable...

The petrol stations are a bit variable...

As are enroute toilets...

At least the farm machinery works 😁🦾

And it's certainly not only local cars, even in the mountains. Given the driving pleasure on offer I can well follow 🏁

One of the oldest bridges in this part of the world. Over 2500 years old apparently...

And seems in slightly better shape than its more modern replacement 😊🤷🏻‍♂️

The route from Kuppa to Urukh Krasniy Most is really like a rally super stage. Starting with a series of tarmac switchbacks, it smoothly transitions to gravel and finally back to tarmac. Doing four wheel drifts through the turns in a 3 ton vehicle is a fun I can highly recommend, if you are that way inclined 🏎️

Even managed to outrun the locals 😉

Top concentration and constant attention are needed, as surprises are frequent and 'different'...

The roads are empty, speed limits seemingly non-existent and the surface quality is surprisingly good. A true driving paradise, this. 

After that we came to the mountain village of Chokh, one of the storied places and one of the homes of Dagestani wrestling - something of a national sport. The local joke goes that a son of the village became European champion at 18, world champion at 19 but Dagestani champion only at 29 😂 

Chokh doesn't have streets in the conventional sense and at night it's quite surprising. There was some basic tourist infrastructure being erected but food was with friendly locals (there were no restaurants back then) and sleeping was in the village headman's newly erected home. He even claimed that with my (then) beard and attitude he could make me a honorary Dagestani and was ready to call the barber for a circumcision and the imam to convert me for the next morning... I gave him the phone to discuss it with my wife and told him, I have the full say at home like the men in Dagestan but for some things it is better to consult the wife first. He practically rolled on the floor laughing 🤣 

Statue to one of the fathers of modern Dagestani wrestlers, who was from the village...

Communal food - unbelievably delicious and all home grown...

Center for the traditional culture of peoples of Russia, with a statue of Stalin above. Not understandable in the West, I guess and when I asked why they had it (given that Dagestanis were deported to the Far East in large numbers during his reign the answer was - during WW2 he sent his sons to fight, just like everyone else and one died - this is the mark of a proper leader. One doesn't have to agree or follow but things are never as clear from afar, without understanding the local context.

The mountain views are breathtaking - and the village is built in such a way that the roof of one house is the courtyard of the house higher up. Very communal, the whole place...

The journey is not quite over yet - a Part 2 is posted below, with more fun roads and Europe’s deepest canyon. Hope you enjoyed the ride. 

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