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The Royal Oak pocket watches
Here is an overview of the Royal Oak pocket watches that I have been able to identify.
They fall into two generations: the first from the 1980s, the second from the 1990s.
Enjoy and thanks for looking!
Best, Emmanuel
I. FIRST GENERATION OF ROYAL OAK POCKET WATCHES - 1980s
The first generation, launched in the early 1980s, comprises the following references:
- 5691
- 5709
- 5710
- 5745
- 5746
A/ REF. 5691 (renamed 35691 in 1984–85)
This reference, which is the first Royal Oak pocket watch, has a 44 mm case made by Jean-Pierre Ecoffey.
The archives mention a launch in 1979, but the Production Registers (Registres d'Etablissage) indicate that the 116 or so of these watches produced were sold between 1980 and 1985.
1/ YELLOW GOLD - 5691BA
Sales from 1980 to 1985: 64 units in all, of which 12 (1980), 43 (1981), 5 (1982), 3 (1983) and 1 (1985)
Champagne dial
credit: Antiquorum
Black dial
credit: k2luxury (1-12) & AP Chronicles (13-16)
Black dial & white gold hands and indexes
Black dial & yellow gold hands and indexes
credit: Christie’s & AP Chronicles (1-2) & Timeless Investments (3-6)
Hand-wound caliber 5020
Grey dial
credit: Caso Watches (black dial) & Sotheby’s + AP Chronicles (grey dial)
Black dial
credit: k2luxury (1-12) & AP Chronicles (13-16)
2/ WHITE GOLD - 5691BC
The Production Registers mention 19 examples of ref. 5691 in white gold.
Black dial & yellow gold hands and indexes
credit: Christie’s & AP Chronicles (1-2) & Timeless Investments (3-6)
3/ WHITE & YELLOW GOLD - 5691CA
The Production Registers mention at least 43 two-tone examples, sold between 1980 and 1982.
Black dial
Hand-wound caliber 5020
Grey dial
credit: Caso Watches (black dial) & Sotheby’s + AP Chronicles (grey dial)
B/ REF. 5709 (renamed 35709 in 1984–85)
Launch date: 1981
credit: AP Chronicles
First ever openworked Royal Oak with 44 mm case.
credit: AP Chronicles
C/ REF. 5710 (renamed 35710 in 1984–85)
Calibre 5020SQ.
Launch date: 1981
Sales from 1981 to 1989: total of 20 units of which 16 in 1981, 2 in 1983, 1 in 1984 and 1 in 1989.
credit: Hodinkee & AP Chronicles
credit: Hodinkee & AP Chronicles
D/ REF. 5745 (renamed 35745 in 1984–85)
This reference is distinguished by its bezel set with 56 diamonds and by its slim bow accentuated by 10 brilliant-cut diamonds.
The archives mention a launch in 1983.
To date, only one example – sold in 1985 – has been found in the Production Registers.
credit: AP Chronicles
E/ REF. 5746 (renamed 35746 in 1984–85)
This reference offers both a gemset case and an openworked calibre (calibre 5020SQ).
Launch date: 1983.
A search of the archives has revealed only one example, sold in August 1984.
credit: The Keystone & AP Chronicles (last image only)
II. SECOND GENERATION OF ROYAL POCKET WATCHES - 1990s
According to AP Chronicles, the second generation of Royal Oak Pocket watches comprises the following references:
- 35796
- 35797 (no images found)
- 35798 (no images found)
- 35800 (no images found)
- 35801 (no images found)
As well as these other two, featuring a perpetual calendar:
- 25728
- 25729
Unfortunately, I have found images only for references 35796, 25728 & 25729 and an additional unidentified example.
A/ REF. 35796
47 mm pink gold case
credit: Bonhams
47 mm pink gold case.
credit: Ineichen & Christie’s (last two images only)
47 mm platinum case.
credit: Christie's
42 mm case
47 mm pink gold case
credit: Bonhams
G/ REF. 25728
Caliber 5020/2820 with perpetual calendar.
credit: Ineichen & Christie’s (last two images only)
B/ REF. 25729PT
47 mm platinum case.
Diamond indexes.
credit: Antiquorum (1), Monochrome (2), Ineichen (3-6) & Christie’s (7-9)
Caliber 5020/2820 with perpetual calendar.
credit: Antiquorum (1), Monochrome (2), Ineichen (3-6) & Christie’s (7-9)
C/ UNIDENTIFIED SKELETONISED REFERENCE WITH ENGRAVING DEPICTING THE “H.M.S. ROYAL OAK”
Movement no. 280437, 48 mm pink gold case no. D 29647, circa 1995
Pink gold pierced and engraved dial depicting the famous battleship, "H.M.S. Royal Oak" built in 1862.
The watch was sold by Christie's in 2009, but the original image is no longer available.
credit: Christie's
BONUS: REF. 5690 “ROPE” OCTAGONAL POCKET WATCH
This reference isn't exactly a Royal Oak, even if it has an octagonal case.
credit: The Keystone (1-4) & Marc Gebauer (5-7)
credit: The Keystone (1-4) & Marc Gebauer (5-7)
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The Royal Oak pocket watches
Here is an overview of the Royal Oak pocket watches that I have been able to identify . They fall into two generations : the first from the 1980s , the second from the 1990s . Enjoy and thanks for looking! Best, Emmanuel I. FIRST GENERATION OF ROYAL OAK P...
I like them a lot too.
No date, no lume, no AP logo. So clean and nice! Best, Emmanuel
Now what prompted this post, I wonder?!
Seriously, a(nother) fantastic one of yours for which I am looking forward to taking the time it deserves, later tonight. Thanks a lot for this, and every, contribution! Cheers Marc
I like ref 5691BC best including the fantastic chain.
The movement architecture is also nice although the skeletonized pieces appeal less to me. Thanks for sharing these pocket watches. M4
Ref. 5691 is my favorite too.
Unsurprisingly I lean towards YG with dial personally. But the white gold is very nice too. In fact, these RO appeal to me more than the wristwatches because they are dressy and classy: no date, no lume, no intrusive AP logo, elegant dauphine hands and th...
My pleasure, Steve.
Ref. 5691 is my personal favorite, especially in YG with a white (or champagne) dial. Best, Emmanuel
My favorite is the 25729PT
I’m a sucker for perpetual calendars and in this case the skeleton version. Thanks again, Emmanuel!
It is, along with the “Pop Swatch”.
The collab is a mix of both: the design of the RO pocket watches and the “pop” function of the Pop Swatch (i.e. the ability of popping the watch out of its surrounding "container" or "support"). Best, Emmanuel
I've always loved pocket watches, possibly due to their aesthetics of their size compared to a wrist watch, but....
that being said, in today's world they are impractical and basically just a novelty. I get that some companies make them as sort of an interesting piece but the day of people wearing vests has long since disappeared except for a very small group of people...
It seemed “à propos” ;-)
That said, it’s always the right time when it comes to beautiful watches. And I personally like the 5691 more than any RO wristwatch: hand-wound (with a beautiful classic movement), dressier (the dauphine hands) and so much more clean. No date, no lume, n...