Audemars Piguet

ThomasM
[PuristS]
14331

• Show profile
• Show other posts

A case for negative space...

and forged carbon:

I had a chance to speak with the design team as recently as October (and several times before that) on recent design "priorities."

They mentioned that they really like to play with "negative space" these days. "Why"

"Because it is harder to do and it is new, fresh, and fun."

Well, no question they used "negative space" to good effect in the Grand Prix.

Besides the 3 dimensionality and shadowing the dropped and sloped clous de paris pattern gives to the dial -
 

It is also used for interesting effect on the case -

How many people noticed the detail on the case, lower left side just below and to the left of the bezel?

The effect appears again on the movement rotor...

And...how many caught these little details?

"the four scoops at 1.30, 4.30, 7.30 and 10.30, echoing the studs which pick up the same theme; and the three counters with a raised rim that is blackened inside and polished on top."

Forged carbon has definitely had its share of questions and controvery and naysayers. Of course, like any cool material, it also has its fan boys who feel this material can single handedly bring world peace and end hunger.

As usual, the truth is somewhere in between.

I remember when the material was first used for a timepiece case; ThePuristS had the worldwide exclusive preview and launch of the Alinghi Team Full Carbon.  I thought it was cool then, and I still think it is cool now.

But I also remember the comments about how it appeared "plasticky."

As we would expect from AP, they have continuously tweaked the material, and by playing with the composite and ratio of binder to carbon fiber, it appears even more bada$$ today than when it first appeared a few years ago.

Is it hard? Define hard.  It will sheer if nicked against a sharp edge with very high impact. And it can scratch if impacted hard enough with a sharp enough or pointed enough surface, but interestingly, the appearance of the material "hides" scratches very well. You have to see it in person to understand just how well it does this.

But hey, is ceramic impossible to scratch? Depending on the composition of the ceramic and how it's formed, yes, it can.  It can also CRACK, much more easily than forged carbon, due to its brittleness, a function of hardness.

Can it forged carbon snap? Yes, we proved that in Hong Kong a few years ago at a PuristS AP get-together.

Can it be refinished? As far as I know, no. But AP is committed to the material and so for the foreseeable future AP will simply replace the forged carbon part as necessary, and I am sure at some point a process will be found to refinish without replacement.
 
Clever combinations of forged carbon"

Forged carbon was deliberately chosen for this collection. This ultra-light and resistant material is exclusively developed by Audemars Piguet, from the manufacturing method through to the related tools. The sophisticated shapes of the Royal Oak Offshore are achieved thanks to an appropriate mould.

A set of threaded carbon filaments is placed inside this mould. This wire measuring just one millimetre in diameter is itself composed of several thousand 7-micron carbon fibres held together by a resin wire. The case middle of the Royal Oak Offshore Grand Prix calls for a set of filaments totalling 12.5 grams. Placed end to end, these filaments are equivalent to 22.2 metres of carbon (sic) wire and 99.7 km of carbon fibres!(sic)

The mould is then compressed at high temperature at pressures of over 300 kilos per square centimetre. This process results in a material composed of 76% carbon and only 24% polyamide.

Audemars Piguet displays the full force of its expertise in the machining process. The inside of the case and the correction of the various drilled holes can thus be meticulously finished. The result is a shimmering effect and a silky feel, clear-cut edges and a sturdy yet ultra-light case-middle: in its forged carbon version, the Royal Oak Ofshore Grand Prix weighs a mere 120 grams! Ceramics, blackened or beadblasted titanium, eloxed aluminium, 950 platinum and pink gold all contribute to this stunning combination of sophisticated materials. "

This last comment about machining is very critical.  This has certainly improved since the Alinghi Team All Carbon (ATAC) - look at the complex details of the bezel; look at the fine edges and transitions, the smoothness of the curvature on the bezel screw head surrounds.  This definitely leads me to believe that refinishing forged carbon parts is not far away, if needed.