Audemars Piguet

pfang56
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Now that the Watches and Wonders releases have been out...

I think AP had a very competitive and exciting pre-release across multiple lines. I had a chance to preview some of them recently in New York, and wanted to share a few comparison shots and a quick and dirty comparison relative to three of my own pieces. Apologies for the brevity of my comments!

First the Sand Gold Skeleton Tourbillon vs my Titanium Tourbillon





I found the colour to be much like champagne - subtle, elegant, understated and a rich undertone. I was told that this mix also stays colorfast under different water conditions (salt, chlorine, etc) unlike other alloys, so it will be incredibly versatile. I believe the quantity will be low (less than 100) so this will be a special piece as the first release in the sand gold. I expect more releases to come later this year with this material.



Next is the burgundy Tourbillon, here compared to the same Titanium Tourbillon



And then my Burgundy CODE.



Well, I guessed it correctly that the dial colour on the Tourbillon is nearly (if not perfectly) equivalent to the Red Burgundy CODE that was just discontinued. It's a wonderful piece, and one nice thing I realized is that the new Selfwinding Flying Tourbillons have a thinner and more tapered bracelet vs my first generation version. A nice upgrade, and if I didn't already have a Red / Burgundy dial or a Tourbillon, this would have been a great combination!


Next is the RG Tourbillon, here next to my Titanium version



These models share the same grey Sandblasted Dial, but there are slight differences in the markers, the hands, and certainly the outer ring. Even with the RG case, it's a surprisingly understated and elegant piece, which I think will be a good fit for those who want the Tourbillon movement and precious metal without the massive bling (compared to a Double Balancier in the same material, it's very understated!).


Next is the new Openworked Jumbo Skeleton next to my Ceramic Perpetual

So I believe Chaiwat posted this earlier. Compared to the Double Balancier, this is an elevated Skeleton version with significantly more high-end finishing, inward angles, and hand work throughout the dial. Furthermore, the finishing is equal (if not better) than what I could see from the loupe vs the Perpetual. An outstanding piece and definitely a serious exemplar of the artisanship offered by AP (which I understand is actually completed outside of AP by former watchmakers from AP).

Next is the 37mm Diamond Ultra Thin Tourbillon

Another elegant piece with a bright blue Tapisserie dial, with the specialized ultra-thin Tourbillon seen in the RD3, and massive diamonds on the bezel, all in 37mm. Not a piece that I would get but one I do appreciate, especially with the ultra thin Tourbillon movement in a 37mm case.

Next is a sample of one of the CODE models with the new green dial.

A wonderfully elegant and elevated model in the newly stamped green dial. Side by side, it's really surprising to see the evolution of the entry level CODE models, everything from the date (window at 3 vs opening at 4:30), to the markers, to the textured dial, and to the hands, and it's a nice elevation of features. I look forward to seeing more colours and dials and complications in the future.



Then got to see the smoked YG Chronograph.

Honestly, was excited to see this one in the flesh, but it was definitely not my style. First I don't think I can pull of YG well, and I just felt the dial was very flat, as it was hard to differentiate the colouring with the tapisserie with the markers. Not my favorite piece at all.


Next was the 37mm frosted YG RO

Now this model was an incredible surprise. While I am not in favor of a 37mm model, I think the combination of a flat smoked dial (no tapisserie) and the frosted YG really made this piece standout. A special highlight and one that I would definitely consider if it was in 41mm, and one I understand is very different as well to the 39mm Jumbo.

And finally, not a new release but a fun one...

The RD3 vs Titanium Tourbillon. This was a special treat and one model I wish I had in my collection. I was incredibly surprised at the thinness of this model and it seems the Tourbillon beats at a higher rate than my own piece. Add to that the original blue dial, the slimmer case and bracelet, and the historical connection - if I was in new in the market for an AP Tourbillon, this would be my first choice. And that's a big deal for me as I do wear my own Titanium the most out of my current collection. Maybe one day?

Anyway, many thanks for reading through this - hope you all have a chance to see some of the novelties at a boutique near you!

Cheers
Peter