*** SIHH 2011: Audemars Piguet ***

Jan 30, 2011,06:12 AM

AP unveiled a collection that comprised mainly additions to the Jules Audemars and Royal Oak lines, along with several new Millenary, including the 4101 which was a crowd favourite.


Starting with the simplest, the Jules Audemars Selfwinding. Measuring 39 mm in pink or white gold, with several dials available as well as the option of a diamond bezel, this contains the in-house cal. 3120.






Another new JA Is the Extra-Thin with the cal. 2120 in white gold. This is 41 mm and only 6.7 mm high.





Ladies get the JA Small Seconds in white or pink gold, with or without diamond bezel.




Several complications were also introduced, starting with the Dual Time, also in two colours of gold.




Only in pink gold is the JA Moon Phase Calendar.




And lastly the JA Tourbillon with oversized date. None of the JA watches introduced are revolutionary but as the common refrain heard during the fair goes: “probably for the Chinese market”.






The Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph has evolved yet further. Sporting design elements from various Royal Oak chronographs that have come before, the new model is 44 mm in diameter and available in pink gold, steel or forged carbon, with ceramic bezel. Inside beats an in-house movement based on the 3120, visible through the display back.







The crown guards and pushers are especially prominent and give the watch an aggressive stance which is somewhat contrasted by the clean dial.






For those with a bigger pocket book but similarly sized wrist, the new Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph is also 44 mm. Turn it over and you get the unexpected.






The cal. 2897 has a peripheral winding mass, while the design of the movement – look at the bridges, levers and barrel ratchet – takes after vintage pocket watches. But it is finished in steel and rhodium-plate, instead of the gilt finish of antique movements.




This movement is almost incongruous with the design of the watch but as a whole tit is a sophisticated and good looking piece. Along with the Millenary 4101 further below this is one of the highlights of the AP range.


The second complicated Royal Oak presented was the Royal Oak Concept CS 1. Looking much sleeker and unadorned than its predecessors this features a second time zone indicator at three. The bezel is ceramic (I did a bad job of wiping it down as you can see from the pictures) but I cannot recall what the case material is and can’t find anything in the press notes, probably titanium?








But the watches above are clearly for shrinking violets. For larger personalities AP has introduced the Royal Oak Offshore Arnold Schwarzenegger The Legacy. Though the Governator’s legacy is still fairly mixed, this watch makes itself absolutely clear.





In ceramic and rose gold, the watch is 48 mm with bridges bolted to the sides to make it look bigger. But note the ceramic case and bezel which are beautifully brushed and polished with bevelled edges like a regular metal Royal Oak case – an unusual and praiseworthy feat. I expect more ceramic cases with this level of finishing next year.





Last is the Millenary 4101 which was the favourite of many. The cal. 4101 is an automatic movement that has been designed entirely for aesthetic effect, with large exposed bridges on the dial side with secured by big screws, and an escapement that is pushed towards the perimeter of the baseplate.








At 47 by 42 mm it is not a small watch, the oval shape makes it eminently wearable. This is available in steel or rose gold, and the steel version is especially striking.






The 4101 is more of an exercise in aesthetics than technique but it is a well executed idea.



This message has been edited by SJX on 2011-01-30 06:34:46 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2011-01-30 16:16:26

Comments: view entire thread


SIHH 2011: A comprehensive PuristSPro Report on SIHH 2011

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-05:56
I present my comprehensive report on SIHH 2011 in Geneva. It covers 20 brands including nearly all the brands inside SIHH and a few notable brands outside of the fair. This year I tried to condense the report a little, as I received feedback that last yea...  

*** SIHH 2011: A. Lange & Söhne ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-05:56
2011 is a year of the small and focused collection for Lange. At one end of the spectrum, the entire Saxonia range was revised with four new models joining the range. Like the Saxonia Annual Calendar of 2010, the new Saxonia models this year are commercia...  

Is the Zeitwerk Striking Hour featured here a prototype?

 By: Hororgasm : January 30th, 2011-10:09
Again, like I pointed out last year, the minute disc is NOT aligned...again. Best, Horo

Yes it is a prototype. [nt]

 By: foversta : January 30th, 2011-10:10
No message body

did you see AND HEAR it already?? [nt]

 By: axisskin : January 30th, 2011-10:13
No message body

Of course, everybody who attended the SIHH saw it and heard it.

 By: foversta : January 30th, 2011-10:15
I put a movie here: alang.watchprosite.com Fr.Xavier This message has been edited by foversta on 2011-01-30 10:16:04

*** SIHH 2011: Audemars Piguet ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-06:12
AP unveiled a collection that comprised mainly additions to the Jules Audemars and Royal Oak lines, along with several new Millenary, including the 4101 which was a crowd favourite. Starting with the simplest, the Jules Audemars Selfwinding. Measuring 39 ...  

The millenary is a very attractive watch

 By: docsnov : February 2nd, 2011-20:25
Is it a regular production or a LE? If available, could you tell us the retail price for the steel and gold models? Thanks, Stewart

It is not an LE

 By: SJX : February 2nd, 2011-20:33
Retail for the steel will likely be in the region of USD22-24k. That is a very rough estimate. - SJX

*** SIHH 2011: Baume & Mercier ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-06:36
Baume et Mercier came along with Piaget when the latter was bought by Vendome, and then B&M became the forgotten step child living under the stairs. But in 2011 B&M was one of the highlights of SIHH. Not because of the watches themselves, which were attra...  

*** SIHH 2011: Cartier ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-06:49
Cartier had the largest collection at SIHH, even compared to previous years. In terms of breadth as well as individual complications Cartier presented one of the most impressive collections at the fair. It’s a long way to the end so we will start with the...  

The Multiple TimeZones....

 By: ArthurSG : January 30th, 2011-18:27
A lot more function for any real world daily sense I think BUT.... very interesting esepcially the indicators on the side. A mutual friend if you recall spoke with PSM about this. Definitely want to see it in the metal when it comes in. Looks a big and th... 

Bad Cartier Good Cartier Ugly Cartier

 By: MTF : February 1st, 2011-23:59
SJX, Bad I agree that the Calibre de Cartier does not imbue a sense of 'Cartier-ness' like all the other Cartier watch shapes. When one looks at a Tortue, Santos, Rotonde, Tank, Pasha etc etc, one sees 'Cartier' in the balance and aesthetic. Good Grief! E... 

I like ...

 By: cen@jkt : February 9th, 2011-18:17
the bear, the monkey (without diamonds, I think the diamond add too much to the decoration), and the turtle (also without the diamond). Is the bear a lmited edition? cen@jkt

*** De Bethune ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-07:12
De Bethune unveiled three new models: the DB10, DB25T and DB28. With silver guilloche dial and blued steel hands, the DB10 is a look back at the first De Bethune models. It is also De Bethune new entry level piece, though it still features the in-house au...  

Science fiction creations.

 By: VMM : January 30th, 2011-15:54
Outstanding movements. Love them. Thanks. Vte

The Beautiful DeBethunes!

 By: ArthurSG : January 30th, 2011-18:25
The DB25 is really a Tourbi for the self assured. As for the DB28, apart from the movable lugs, how different is it from the DBS?

Same as DBS aside from case. [nt]

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-19:00
No message body

they are really wonderful creations. between DBS and DB28

 By: Hororgasm : February 3rd, 2011-01:24
What are major differences? Is there any material upgrade? Love the electric blue lugs version, goes really well with the electric blue hands. Best, Horo

Movements are the same

 By: SJX : February 3rd, 2011-01:34
Only the case differs. - SJX

Exquisite Watches

 By: Tony A.H : February 26th, 2011-10:15
but not sure how durable the BLUE Color on the Ti Lugs.??

*** Franck Muller ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-07:20
Over at Watchland Franck Muller had a lot to show though the highlights for me were a series of tourbillons including one with a 20 mm tourbillon cage. As usual there were plenty of jewelled watches, including a whopper completely set with baguettes. FM a...  

Nice job on those movements. I like them.

 By: VMM : January 30th, 2011-15:43
Not a fan of FM watches, but this year novelties have some nice work done on the movements IMO, and I had to comment it. Thanks. Vte

SJX, can you share some details on the escapement of some of the tourbillons?

 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 1st, 2011-00:11
the teeth of the escape wheel look quite spectacular and different from the 'normal Swiss lever escapement tourbillons'. I am referren, for example, to this: Or am I just fooled by the special spoke design? Thanks, Magnus...  

beautiful Watches

 By: Tony A.H : February 26th, 2011-10:17
i'm surprised that FM Watches are not Well appreciated.and ofter are looked over.!

*** SIHH 2011: Girard Perregaux ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-07:29
Girard Perregaux presented a fairly small collection this year with all the models being variants of existing models or calibres. As usual the highlights were variations of the GP tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges. Several new models in the slim, round V...  

*** SIHH 2011: Greubel Forsey ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-07:36
Greubel Forsey showed two new models this year, the Invention Piece 2 and the Double Tourbillon 30 ° Technique. As is tradition at GF, both are enormously complex watches that are finished to the highest standard throughout. I especially like the stu...  

*** SIHH 2011: IWC ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-07:43
IWC presented a small range this year, with majority of the new models being the revamped Portofino range. For the longest time the Portofino was almost an afterthought but now it has turned serious. The flagship of the new Portofino line is the Hand-Woun...  

Sorry mate...another disappointing year IMHO for IWC lovers like me

 By: Hororgasm : February 3rd, 2011-20:31
The regig of the Portofino is such a obvious marketing department job that you can literally smell them trying to inject a dose of Dolce Vita that is actually smacking of Artificiosa Vita. Comeon IWC, reinvent the wheel if you have to, stop mucking around... 

Both Portofino are new movements but...

 By: SJX : February 4th, 2011-00:13
though similar to the cal. 5000 automatic the new hand-wind is entirely different, it is not merely the cal. 5000 with automatic winding mechanism removed. While I wouldn't go so far as to call them disappointing, they are fairly commercial pieces, i.e. d... 

*** SIHH 2011: Jaeger-LeCoultre ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-07:54
2011 is the anniversary of the Reverso so naturally there were several new Reverso models. But they were not the only novelties; JLC had one of the larger collections at the fair. The headline Reverso for 2011 is the minuter repeater at the high-end but I...  

Not faux antique luminova, on the TT 1931 RG, SJX.

 By: amanico : January 30th, 2011-13:03
The dial is not glowing at all. It is not luminous, but paint. Best, Nicolas.

Ha! ANother MR in Titanium!

 By: BluNotte : January 31st, 2011-09:33
Now this looks like a contender for a space in my watch case! We'll have to see! Cheers Stephen

Great Report

 By: turboguate : January 31st, 2011-10:20
Not only was it concise but the words covered what was more relevant and worth noting for, not to mention your pics. Thank you!

*** MB&F ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-08:05
MB&F presented the final editions of the HM2, 18 pieces each of the red and black SV (‘Sapphire Vision’). Both have sapphire top plates, while the case back of the red SV is rose gold while the black SV is PVD coated titanium. When I first saw images I ha...  


 By: Hororgasm : January 30th, 2011-15:46
Hope it is gonna be a affordable piece. Best, Horo

*** SIHH 2011: Montblanc ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-08:11
Montblanc grew its key model lines incrementally this year, starting with the Rieussec. 2011 is the 190 th anniversary of Rieussec’s first stop watch, so naturally an anniversary Rieussec is mandatory. Available in platinum, rose or white gold, the Rieuss...  

Excellent Bi-Cylindrique pics.

 By: VMM : January 30th, 2011-15:40
That double hairspring looks fascinatingly beautiful and you captured it perfectly. Nice pics. Thanks. Vte

Great report... :)

 By: MiniCooper : January 31st, 2011-12:33

*** SIHH 2011: Panerai ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-08:23
Panerai’s 2011 collection continues to do what it does very well, a solid dose of retro inspiration, a dash of in-house movement credibility and dastardly limited numbers of everything. A key tactic of Panerai, if I may venture a guess, is to take o...  

*** SIHH 2011: Parmigiani ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-08:55
Parmigiani had two new wristwatch models for 2011. The simpler of the two is the Tonda 1950, an ultra-slim automatic in gold, with 1950 being the year of Michel Parmigiani’s birth. At 39 mm and 7.8 mm high, this is a slim and elegant watch. Inside sits th...  

the new bugatti - a dream - thx [nt]

 By: axisskin : January 30th, 2011-10:08
No message body

Beautiful movements.

 By: VMM : January 30th, 2011-15:35
I like those movements. Very nice finishing, and the one in the Bugatti looks very different and interesting. A piece of art. Thanks. Vte

*** SIHH 2011: Piaget ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-09:03
Piaget’s flagship complication for 2011 is not unexpectedly, an ultra-slim, flying tourbillon. The Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Ultra-Thin is only 5.35 mm thick and square, making it unusual for its slimness and its shape. Aesthetically it is a significan...  

The Emperador Coussin Tourbillon Ultra-Thin looks most interesting to me

 By: ArthurSG : January 30th, 2011-18:36
Care to share your detailed thoughts on it?

Piaget Polo FortyFive Perpetual Calendar

 By: MTF : February 1st, 2011-23:38
SJX, I agree that the new Polo FortyFive Perpetual Calendar is attractive. It is not just the two-tone Ti/Rose Gold look but also that the slim perpetual calendar movement (a novelty 2 years ago) is now in a sensible Polo case. Very useable and sensible d... 

*** SIHH 2011: Richard Mille ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-09:14
With the exception of one watch the novelties from Richard Mille all took the familiar tonneau form. The top of the line addition to the collection is the RM038 Bubba Watson. Mr Watson, whose real name is a much less memorable Gerry, is a pro golfer who h...  

*** SIHH 2011: Roger Dubuis ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-09:18
Roger Dubuis, along with Baume et Mercier, is one of the turnaround stories of SIHH. Management spent the last couple of years since the Richemont acquisition tightening up the production processes. Now with that done the collection will be rebuilt in a m...  

roger d. at its best [nt]

 By: axisskin : January 30th, 2011-10:09
No message body

Nice movements.

 By: VMM : January 30th, 2011-15:37
Despite of the stunning movements, not for me. Vte

Some thoughts and questions

 By: Hororgasm : February 3rd, 2011-19:57
Chrono inspired by roulette is so passé and gimmicky, more like something the previous owner of RD would do. The more traditional chrono is very nice, bar the 100% Swiss made, which can be quite comforting actually. How many manufacturers dare claim that!... 

No thoughts but answers

 By: SJX : February 4th, 2011-00:04
RD will continue to make jewellery for ladies, but I recall it is not made in-house in Geneva. I am not sure if the manufacturer that makes it is a part of Richemont or an external contractor. As for the watches, all are prototypes. - SJX

*** Urwerk ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-09:27
Succeeding the Urwerk 103, the 110 tells the time on rotating cubes for the hours and a pointer indicating the minutes. Each cube is fixed to a minute hand that travels the 60 minute arc on the right. There are three of these satellites, each fixed to a c...  

For some reason, this is really uber-cool

 By: Hororgasm : January 30th, 2011-10:53
And I have never been attracted to urwerks before...till this. And what a worthy successor to the 103. Wonder how the roe gold version would look like. And this version, one can see the satellite rotating system in it's full glory. Well done Urwerk!! Best... 

I like it too!

 By: Mostel : February 3rd, 2011-19:40
Very very cool--my first foray into totally 'out there' design.

I love to see this in the metal..

 By: ocwatching : January 30th, 2011-15:07
very interesting...maybe a video...

NICE! What is the size from lug to lug?

 By: ArthurSG : January 30th, 2011-18:37
Are the lugs curved in? It looks like it wears big.

51 mm. [nt]

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-19:00
No message body

*** SIHH 2011: Vacheron Constantin ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-09:32
Vacheron Constantin unveiled a collection that was noticeably devoid of big complications but is nevertheless excellent. The Les Historiques 1954 Aronde follows the successful Americaine 1921 as another re-edition of a vintage form watch. This has an eleg...  

Awesome pictures....

 By: jpitsch : January 30th, 2011-12:32
These pictures are awesome. What kind of lighting are you using? Is this from a full-frame camera?

Hey, I went to UCLA . . .

 By: Dr No : February 7th, 2011-06:48
. . . and never knew we had our own time zone!! Eucla is the French spelling of UCLA, right? . . .

*** SIHH 2011: Van Cleef & Arpels ***

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-09:39
As with recent years Van Cleef et Arpels flagship Poetic Complications for the year is a double retrograde created by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht. The Five Weeks in a Balloon depicts a hot air balloon in enamel lifting off from Zanzibar, inspired by Jules Verne...  

I just finished reading "From the Earth to the Moon" last night

 By: cazalea : January 31st, 2011-18:43
and I like their dial better than the covers of most of the versions! Thanks for the tremendous report. And for holding back the words to 10,000 The editor, Cazalea

Amazing post, thank you!

 By: mcio2 : February 1st, 2011-13:51


 By: cen@jkt : February 9th, 2011-18:28
A Van Cleef I can acquire! Finally! cen@jkt

An awesome job SJX

 By: foversta : January 30th, 2011-10:09
I will come back very often to each part of your report of course! Thanks a lot and congrats ! Fr.Xavier

Let me first to congratulate you on this mega report

 By: Hororgasm : January 30th, 2011-10:11
And reading material for next few days for me, and surely for many others too. Best, Horo

thank you for this post - great job [nt]

 By: axisskin : January 30th, 2011-10:12
No message body

WOW thank you for the wonderful reports.

 By: dedestexhes : January 30th, 2011-10:31
It is realy comprehensive. I like the GP world time a lot! Br, Dirk

Outstanding report!

 By: InHavenPro : January 30th, 2011-10:48
Thank you very much. Filip

COMPLETE and concise...

 By: ocwatching : January 30th, 2011-15:05
awesome reporting and love the format... short and sweet commentary on the various pieces... THANK YOU so much!

Thanks for the effort. Superb reports.

 By: VMM : January 30th, 2011-15:27
I've enjoyed them a lot. Best. Vte


 By: ArthurSG : January 30th, 2011-18:39
Extremely well done. Thank you.

Bravo is right! I thought I saw the show until

 By: timerider : January 30th, 2011-19:13
I read this report. Nice work SJX and the photographs are excellent. Many thanks and it was worth waiting for this work. Best to all, Tim

Thanks Tim.

 By: SJX : January 30th, 2011-19:25
Nice to have met you at the fair. - SJX

SJX, thank you...

 By: jporos : January 30th, 2011-19:11
for your herculean effort and photographs that put the overproduced "pictures" released by the manufacturers to shame. I know there is very little time and much to see, but if you have some shots of the new Jean Richard models, I would love to see those. ... 

Nice work SJX...You're out of the dog house!

 By: =RWK= : January 30th, 2011-20:31
Wonderful presentation SJX. Many Thanks for your always superb work. Best, -- Richard.

You are my hero SJX

 By: samwan : January 31st, 2011-05:18
I thought SIHH 2011 was boring until I saw your report. Your pictures have made the timepieces so much more desirable. I particularly like the novelties from GP, Richard Mille, IWC and de Bethune. This report is even better than last year's, which I thoug... 

Have you been hiding under my bed Horogasm?

 By: samwan : February 3rd, 2011-03:25
I was watching "Shall We Dance?" a few times today (for lack of something better to do) and Bette Midler co-starred in that movie.... KXFC Sam

I come clean, was in your watch strongroom....

 By: Hororgasm : February 3rd, 2011-04:07
When you started humming the Bette Midler song....darn now I can't get it outta my head. Kong Hei Fatt Choy Horo

This is not good

 By: Ares501 - Mr Green : January 31st, 2011-05:50
now I'll have to spent 2-3 more hours on PPro my wife will kill me :0)) Thank you so so much for bringing all this to us who can't be there Chapeau & Kudos Best Damjan

Wow wow wow!

 By: Gary G : January 31st, 2011-07:22
SJX, you've really done it here! A wonderful overview of a very big week -- and you still had time to talk with me... Wonderful stuff! All the best, Gary G

Fantastic job SJX!!

 By: i_am_Sam : January 31st, 2011-08:23
I have been waiting for your exclusive and detailed report and photos this SIHH! Thank you for sharing with us! Best, Sam

A splendid walk through all the novelties!

 By: BluNotte : January 31st, 2011-09:40
Thank you SJX! Bravo, just brilliant! Stephen

Let me applaud ...

 By: small-luxury-world : January 31st, 2011-16:36
for that great job you did for us. The way you worked out some interesting details in your pictures and your kind of subtle notes are very well done. Thanks, SJX! Oliver

Outstanding report; brilliant photos, and completed before

 By: 219 : February 1st, 2011-02:09
the end of the 2 weeks after SIHH. Stunned and you can still see straight? Thanks for bringing us all the news and views. Great report. Andrew H


 By: au7778 : February 2nd, 2011-01:43
Exceptional effort to make this ecxellent coverage! Really appreciated.

Thank you

 By: vernon : February 2nd, 2011-10:47
for making sure none of us miss out on the news. Vernon

Thank you!!!!

 By: Mostel : February 3rd, 2011-19:43