AP unveiled a collection that comprised mainly additions to the Jules Audemars and Royal Oak lines, along with several new Millenary, including the 4101 which was a crowd favourite.
Starting with the simplest, the Jules Audemars Selfwinding. Measuring 39 mm in pink or white gold, with several dials available as well as the option of a diamond bezel, this contains the in-house cal. 3120.
Another new JA Is the Extra-Thin with the cal. 2120 in white gold. This is 41 mm and only 6.7 mm high.
Ladies get the JA Small Seconds in white or pink gold, with or without diamond bezel.
Several complications were also introduced, starting with the Dual Time, also in two colours of gold.
Only in pink gold is the JA Moon Phase Calendar.
And lastly the JA Tourbillon with oversized date. None of the JA watches introduced are revolutionary but as the common refrain heard during the fair goes: “probably for the Chinese market”.
The Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph has evolved yet further. Sporting design elements from various Royal Oak chronographs that have come before, the new model is 44 mm in diameter and available in pink gold, steel or forged carbon, with ceramic bezel. Inside beats an in-house movement based on the 3120, visible through the display back.
The crown guards and pushers are especially prominent and give the watch an aggressive stance which is somewhat contrasted by the clean dial.
For those with a bigger pocket book but similarly sized wrist, the new Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph is also 44 mm. Turn it over and you get the unexpected.
The cal. 2897 has a peripheral winding mass, while the design of the movement – look at the bridges, levers and barrel ratchet – takes after vintage pocket watches. But it is finished in steel and rhodium-plate, instead of the gilt finish of antique movements.
This movement is almost incongruous with the design of the watch but as a whole tit is a sophisticated and good looking piece. Along with the Millenary 4101 further below this is one of the highlights of the AP range.
The second complicated Royal Oak presented was the Royal Oak Concept CS 1. Looking much sleeker and unadorned than its predecessors this features a second time zone indicator at three. The bezel is ceramic (I did a bad job of wiping it down as you can see from the pictures) but I cannot recall what the case material is and can’t find anything in the press notes, probably titanium?
But the watches above are clearly for shrinking violets. For larger personalities AP has introduced the Royal Oak Offshore Arnold Schwarzenegger The Legacy. Though the Governator’s legacy is still fairly mixed, this watch makes itself absolutely clear.
In ceramic and rose gold, the watch is 48 mm with bridges bolted to the sides to make it look bigger. But note the ceramic case and bezel which are beautifully brushed and polished with bevelled edges like a regular metal Royal Oak case – an unusual and praiseworthy feat. I expect more ceramic cases with this level of finishing next year.
Last is the Millenary 4101 which was the favourite of many. The cal. 4101 is an automatic movement that has been designed entirely for aesthetic effect, with large exposed bridges on the dial side with secured by big screws, and an escapement that is pushed towards the perimeter of the baseplate.
At 47 by 42 mm it is not a small watch, the oval shape makes it eminently wearable. This is available in steel or rose gold, and the steel version is especially striking.
The 4101 is more of an exercise in aesthetics than technique but it is a well executed idea.
- SJXThis message has been edited by SJX on 2011-01-30 06:34:46 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2011-01-30 16:16:26