Very now and then a watch brand creates a watch which is obviously geared towards its connoisseurs. The new Zenith El Primero 410 Tribute to Charles Vermot Limited Edition is one such case:
Let's start with the technical basics: offered in a (now Zenith's 'standard size') 42mm steel case (with brushed lugs) carrying a mesmerising blue dial with a sun ray decoration, it will be made in 1975 pieces at a price slightly below 10k€.
Furthermore, it comes with Zenith's signature mushroom pushers and a full calendar complication:
But what justifies the word 'obvious' I added above when I mused about its dedication to us aficionados? Well, its in the
details:
1.) the full calendar complication is one of the most appreciated amongst Zenith's El Primero disciples, and in fact was one of the cornerstone complication in the early 1980s after the revival not only of Zenith, but also of the Swiss watch industry proper.
2.) the blue colour, a consequence of the watch's homage to Charles Vermot, more on this below!
3.) no overlapping chronograph dials
4.) consequently, also
design differentiation of hands layout according function: all chronograph hands carry a red accent.
I said it before, this dial is simply
superlunary!
On the back of course a crystal case such as to shed light into the inner workings. More as with other El Primeros, the movement is crucial for the successful implementation of the timepiece.
The movement, here the
El Primero Cal. 410, is a landmark in watchmaking history. We all know that, and we also know whom we have to thank for still being able to obtain it new ex factory: Mr
Charles Vermot, watchmaker and responsible for tooling at Zenith during the time of the US ownership of the factory.
Mr Vermot was ordered to destroy all machines, tools, parts and technical drawings of the El Primero (and many other movements in Zenith's stable) in the brands drive to focus on electronic watches. He simply did not to have the heart to shed away, as scrap, all what meant the lifeline of Zenith for so many years, and above that for so many years of his own life.
How he got away with presenting the management with receipts for the scrap metal value (he was supposed to sell the stuff for its metal value) I do not know.
Instead, with a handful of initiated (or conspirers) he catalogued all they could secure, and stored it safely in a remote attic of one of Zenith's buildings.
When in the early 1980
Ebel approached Zenith to inquired for a small lot of El Primero movements, the management could only decline -
"sorry, we have none left, all destroyed years ago". But then Charles Vermot's prime hour came: He cleared his throat, and then said:
"Well, that's actually not true - let me show you!" - the rest is history!
It was his sense to the intrinsic value, and his disobedience towards the orders of his superiors which saved the El Primero, and saved (later) Zenith.
Charles Vermot's favourite colour was blue - thus the very apt choice of the dial. And in the B&W image above you see him wearing exactly the full calendar version Cal. 410.
Thus, with the newly presented Zenith El Primero 410 Tribute to Charles Vermot us Zenith lovers have the chance to wear a very intimate, a very significant piece on our wrist, at the same time commemorating one of the most crucial moments and one of the most important men in watchmaking history.
And it feels good!
With its 42mm it sits in the median range for a contemporary watch, although it appears a (tiny) bit large, but it is still very wearable, and very consistently designed.
Kudos to Zenith to pay homage to a humble watchmaker who probably did more to the fate and future of this brand than many, many CEOs. Kudos also,for choosing this complication which Mr Vermot wore himself. And, finally, a third kudos for the faultless and very respectful implementation - design- and technology-wise!
Thanks for reading,
Magnus
P.S.: article edited 23 May 2016 to correct a mistake with the case size.