Zenith Geneva Week 2015 New Releases Overview

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Ornatus-Mundi's report from Geneva Week 2015 provides an essential first look at Zenith's new releases, particularly highlighting the artistic and technical refinements. His coverage offers valuable insights into the brand's direction, from high-complication artistry to more accessible daily wearers, making this content relevant for collectors interested in Zenith's evolution.

Geneva in January - that is first and foremost SIHH, but there are a few other brands who seize the opportunity to present themselves - one of them is Zenith. Geneva is a side-event for them, which the brand uses to present refinements (see Art's, Oliver's and my report from 2014 - here !). This year was no exception!

Unmistakable highlight was another iteration of the Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage (3 Hallelujahs for a shorter name...!!!), Version II , which from the front looks exactly like the first one I showed live and in the metal here .

One of its outstanding features is the unique gyrotourbillon to eliminate influences on gravity, the second is the absolutely breathtaking artwork represented both in sculpturing and enamelling techniques. Well, you have seen that...

... but not this:

While the first iteration sported an extremely artistically done representation of Columbus' vessel Santa Maria which he used for his first voyage in 1492. The new one tells the story of the last pre-colonisation times, with indigenous people (left) presenting Mr Columbus (right) with tropical fruits and a parrot (center). Amazingly done!

... somehow I feel more attracted to the fruits... ;-)

Are words needed? Sometimes I would like to wear it 'sunny side up'...

Delicate expressions of top-flight craftsmanship, engraving and micro-painting showcase the full measure of Zenith’s virtuosity in creating horological works combining technical refinement with magnificent artistry - limited to 10 pieces!

Next up is an almost adorable (and finely revised!) version of the El Primero 36'0000 VPH - here in a steel case and a beautiful vintage-y off-white lacquered dial:

42mm, but note how they fine-tuned the dial: The date moved from 6 to the 4:30 position with a slightly enlarged window (how considerate, thus ensures that Nicolas (amanico) will let this watch untouched so we can admire it...):

Movement of course is the automatic El Primero 400 B:

It wears quite big, but this is something I would have to confirm... A really classical, charming piece - well done!

Then, the 3 watches of the Charles Vermot homage collection (Pilot Type 20 GMT, El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Open; Captain Power Reserve) - common features to all:

- special dials

- back crystal sporting a very finely laser-engraved list of all chronometric records Zenith ever was awarded in its 150 years of existence

- limited to 50 pieces

- boutiques-exclusive

First one is the Pilot Type 20 GMT: 48mm titanium case:

Superb blue sunday dial...

The secret is on the back side: display back revealing an Elite movement (hey, and it does not look too small even, quelle surprise) and unique engraved case-back:

48mm of gorgeousness. Too big for most (including myself), but a serious watch for sure with very delicate and subtle limitation features!

Second piece is the El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Open. Comes in steel (42mm) with a blue sun ray dial highlighting the silicon escapement parts:

Adorned display back as above:

Last of then is the Captain Power Reserve, with a velvet-finshed black dial, powered by an Elite movement

Also here the common theme:

This is what I would call a speciality for those in the know...

The El Primero Synopsis is expanded by this rather sexy contender, in black with a steel case...

The family membership to the famous El Primero can't be overlooked. Note also the silicon escapement:

And finally a lovely piec for the ladies: An El Primero Open with an interwoven diamond-set bezel - note the two intertwined lines of diamonds on a oval bezel:

Mechanics taken serious also for the ladies:

This one come in steel, but can be had in red gold with a MOP or a slate-grey velvet finished dial as well (the latter being very tempting I suppose...).

Finally - I have only press images but those are really fantastic - the three versions of a very restrained and elegant Captain Winsor Annual Calendar (boutique-only!). I have seen the one in the middle last year but the left and the right one - tempting:

That's all I have - there s more but this will have to wait until I had the chance to see them in 'nature' (for which I can't wait...!!!). A new refined design, very well matching to Zenith as the mechanical brand which let's the intrinsic value speak for itself - what is your opinion?

Best,

Magnus

(Note: last year we could count on the help of Art in drafting the text. This year it was the other way round: François (foversta) had the appointment and took the images, yours truly did the backoffice writing. I will have the opportunity the see the watches soon and will report back. Until then a big thanks to FX for helping us getting the news out in a true PuristS' collaboration!)

This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2015-02-02 01:09:57

About the Zenith El Primero Ref. ElPrimero410TributetoCharlesVermot

The Zenith El Primero 410 Tribute to Charles Vermot is a special edition timepiece honoring the individual who preserved the original El Primero tools and plans during the quartz crisis. This model integrates a full calendar and moon phase complication, showcasing the versatility of the high-frequency El Primero caliber. It represents a blend of historical homage and technical sophistication within Zenith's contemporary offerings.

This timepiece features an automatic El Primero caliber, operating at 36,000 vibrations per hour, providing a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. The case is typically crafted from stainless steel, with a diameter around 42mm, and often includes a sapphire crystal case back to display the movement. The dial usually presents a classic layout with subdials for chronograph functions, day, date, month, and moon phase indicators.

For collectors, the El Primero 410 Tribute to Charles Vermot holds significance as a direct link to Zenith's enduring legacy and the resilience of mechanical watchmaking. Its combination of a revered movement, multiple complications, and a narrative of preservation makes it a notable piece in the brand's modern history, appealing to those who appreciate both technical prowess and historical context.

Specifications

Caliber: El Primero 410

Case: Stainless steel

Diameter: 42mm

Crystal: Sapphire

Key Points from the Discussion

The Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage Version II, despite its long name, is the most lusted-after piece due to its new imagery and colors, while the 'White Ghost' El Primero is noted for its real-world usability and affordability.
The revised dial of the El Primero 36'000 VPH is well-received, with hopes that its improved layout will influence future Zenith designs, especially in anticipation of the brand's 150th-anniversary lineup.
The El Primero 36'000 VPH in steel with an off-white lacquered dial is a charming and classical piece, with a price point of 6900€, making it an anticipated model for many.

The Discussion

ifraher

Jan 29, 2015

The Winsor boutique models were released last year, at least the version (grey dial) was, I bought mine in May 2014. I really like the revised dial El Primero, I think it will age well, and hopefully has an influence on dial layout hierarchy on their other overlapping dials from now on, very nice indeed. I was hoping for a lot this year from Zenith as I have been resisting other major purchases in anticipation of their 150th anniversary line up. Nice post, I always appreciate new Zenith release

Ornatus-Mundi

Jan 29, 2015

I will revise my report accordingly - and I would really love to see a picture of your Winsor! Best, Magnus

ifraher

Jan 29, 2015

I will get my camera out this weekend and share with the forum. Regards

gunungbesarsekali

Jan 30, 2015

that white dial 36000 vph el primero is such a for the info bout the price ?

Ornatus-Mundi

Feb 1, 2015

6900€. This is the one I am really looking forward to seeing in the metal. Cheers, Magnus

MTF

Feb 6, 2015

Thanks Magnus and FrX for the mini preview. I am also keen to see the Zenith watches at Baselworld 2015. The watch with a mouthful of names - Academy Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage Version II - is the one to lust for (literally). I like this new imagery and colours. My favourite fruit is the banana anyway. The watch for real world use and affordability is the 'White Ghost' El Primero. I usually prefer my chronographs with black dials and white font but this clear minute/seconds marker

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Zenith Geneva Week 2015 New Releases Overview

About the Zenith El Primero Ref. ElPrimero410TributetoCharlesVermot

Specifications

Key Points from the Discussion

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