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DonCorson
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And the Watchmakers… what do they do ? part 1

And the Watchmakers… what do they do ?
by Don Corson, September 2011


We have been to many companies that make watches together.  We have seen the machines.  We have seen the parts being made.  Once in a while we have looked over the shoulder of a watchmaker at work.  But what is their real part in watch production?  Once we have all the parts, how do all those parts “fall together” ?

I had the chance to answer that question during a day-long visit to Armin Strom in Bienne.  I was able to follow a watchmaker as he assembles a complete watch; all the steps from a tray of finished and decorated parts to a working and regulated watch.  Exactly all those steps that we have been missing in the genesis of a watch.  Simon, our watchmaker for the day, let me take pictures of all the steps.  It was easy to see that Simon’s mastery of his work, many times I had to slow him down just to get a picture.

We are starting on a journey which is not for the faint of heart.  More than 200 pictures, when I am not getting in the way approx. 4 hours of concentrated work.  And note; the watch we will be assembling is a relatively simple 3 hands, small seconds watch with power reserve indication, an Armin Racing One Week.  This is not a big complication.  And we will be seeing only the final assembly.  Many of the parts are already preassembled.

Just to whet your appetite, the finished watch, an Armin Racing One Week: 


For your memory, here is the link to my visit 2 years ago where we visited the machine shop.
ahci.watchprosite.com

And here the visit to a Formula 1 training to celebrate the launch of the Armin Racing collection.
home.watchprosite.com

We will start with a quick look at the parts trays, the parts separated more by their position in the calibre than by function.

The plate and bridges:


The barrel:


The dial side winding:


Some bridges:



Winding and setting components:



The ratchet spring and bridge:


The motion bridge and components:


Escapement components:


Our work bench is well ordered:


Last preparations:



Let’s go!  A quick inspection of the plate shows us that there is still one jewel missing.  The pre-assembly preparation of the plate includes inserting all the jewels and pins and axles.  The jewels will have their positions regulated to have the proper end shakes of the axles.

Simon started out by finding the necessary jewel, placing it in its new home and pressing it home with the jewel press.











Now we will prepare the barrels by inserting the mainsprings.  The springs are supplied by the mainspring manufacturer pre lubricated with a ring holding them rolled up smaller than their size in the barrel.  As such it is easy to place the spring in its ring on the barrel, press the spring out of the ring and then insert the barrel axle making sure that it hooks properly into the hole in the end of the spring.














Then the barrel cover is pressed in place using a tool to avoid blemishing the decoration.  A quick brushing with a leather assures that all is well before the axle is lubricated where it fits in the barrel case and cover.  We will see much lubricating using an oiler throughout the day.  The idea of an oiler is to put just the amount of oil necessary for the current application on the tip of the oiler.  This is then transferred to the bearing.  In this way it is not possible to put too much oil on the bearing.  For the miniscule quantities needed it is impossible to control the flow of the oil.  Here the quantity is controlled simply by dipping the tip of the oiler more or less deep into the oil.  Then all of that oil is transferred to the bearing.










Then this procedure is repeated for the second barrel.

Simon continues to mount the winding and setting mechanism.


The winding pinion and sliding pinion are mounted on the stem…





which is then inserted in the plate.


The setting lever is then mounted on the dial side…





and fixed with its screw from the bridge side of the movement.





Now we check that the movement of the parts is OK and add a drop of oil on the moving surfaces..





















Next we will be mounting the first wheels.  The “mobiles”, wheels and pinions, have already been mounted in this kit, but Simon shows me how it is done.  To start the pinion is placed on an anvil of the right size in the staking tool.  Then the wheel is put in place and gently pressed in place being careful that it is centered and not to deform it using a stake with an inner diameter slightly larger than the pinion.



Then using a smaller stake and a watchmakers hammer the two are riveted together by bending over the corner of the wheel seat on the pinion. 




Now the mobile is checked for flatness and concentricity on a special tool.





Now it is time for a break.  Time to rest the eyes, or do crossword puzzles, or both.


After the break we will continue.

To go to  "And the Watchmakers… what do they do ?   Part 2" click here

  
  This message has been edited by MTF on 2011-09-30 09:06:25 This message has been edited by MTF on 2011-10-04 01:16:09

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