Vacheron Constantin

Quick-Look Review: Vacheron Constantin's Patrimony Traditionnelle, Ref 82172

 

I’ve been giving a lot of attention to the manual winding Patrimony Contemporaine, reference 81180, of late. Its companion in the Patrimony Traditionnelle family of watches has been feeling jealous and has asked for some attention. I am more than happy to oblige!

Vacheron Constantin introduced the Patrimony Traditionnelle family in 2007 with three models. The statement watch that launched the line was the grand complication Patrimony Traditionnelle “Calibre 2755,” which combines the tourbillon, perpetual calendar, and minute repeater complications in one extraordinary and elegant watch. Filling out the line was the Patrimony Traditionnelle Skeleton Perpetual Calendar and the Patrimony Traditionnelle Self-Winding. The models in this collection feature gold or platinum cases with a step along the flanks and the sculpted lugs and a screw down case back with knurling on the outer edge. Dials have an opaline finish with a contrasting hue on the railroad track around the outer edge of the dial.  The hands are “dauphine.” With a couple of exceptions, movements are designed and manufactured in–house by Vacheron Constantin.

I wrote an in-depth review of the Patrimony Traditionnelle Self-Winding, reference 87172 in 2008. You can read it here:

vacheron.watchprosite.com

In 2009 Vacheron extended the Patrimony Traditionnelle collection by adding a Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, Chronograph, additional skeleton models, and, the focus of this article, a simple manual winding model, simply call Patrimony Tradtionnelle, reference 82172.

As seems to be the brands habit, it was only available in rose gold for the first year of production.

In 2010 the reference in white gold made its debut:


Like the self-winding watch, this one is 38 mm in diameter and slim. Vacheron Constantin does not apply a rhodium coating to its white gold watches unless they are set with diamonds, a benefit of which is that the case can be polished without removing the rhodium layer, creating an uneven finish.

The lugs one of the finest features of the case, and to this collector’s eye alludes to Vacheron Constantin’s creativity in lug design during the 1940’s and 1950’s:


The knurling on the case back is attractive, but it can grab at wrist hairs. The case back screws down and gives the watch 30 meters of water resistance. The indents do not have any rough edges that would pull on the wearer’s wrist.


While the dial takes its cue from classic dress watches of the 1950’s, it is clearly contemporary in execution. The silver opaline finish on the brass base is bright, contrasting with the more muted tones found in the Patrimony Contemporaine watches. The faceted gold hour indexes and subdial give the dial some depth.


The hands are given a half frosted and half polished finish which makes reading the time easy in all lighting conditions but for darkness.


One should savor the view of the caliber 4400 through the sapphire crystal case back This in-house designed and manufactured movement was introduced in 2008 in the Historiques American 1921, followed shortly thereafter in this reference. This movement has earned the Geneva Hallmark, ensuring both mechanical and aesthetic excellence.


The large barrel holds a mainspring that will power for the watch for almost three days. The balance beats at 28,800 VPH. The 28 mm diameter movement places the fourth wheel, which drives the sub seconds, far enough away from the center of the watch to give the dial a visually pleasing balance.


Vacheron Constantin has two compelling families of dress watches with both the Patrimony Contemporaine and the Patrimony Traditionnelle lines, and each line now comprises a range of watches, from simple to complicated. For those looking for a classic three hand dress watch, I can’t imagine a better choice than the Patrimony Traditionnelle.

Bill