Best of The Hour Lounge: Calendar Watches Part II

Jun 18, 2021,04:09 AM
 

1936

Unique piece made for Brocking of Spain, and one of Vacheron & Constantin’s first multi-complication wrist watches.  Minute repeater with day of the week and, believed to be a first, date via retrograde hand.




Ref 4240

Launched in 1942 and produced in a 35mm yellow or rose gold 3-part stepped case with claw lugs.  Also a rare version in steel with rose or yellow gold lugs. Featured Calibre 485 with day and month via apertures in the dial and date via a central hand.








Ref 4240L

Same as Ref 4240 with addition of moon phases (Lune).  35mm case in yellow gold or steel, using Calibre 495.







Ref 4241

Also launched in 1942, with a slightly larger 35.5mm case and tear drop lugs, available in yellow gold or rose gold and steel. A special version was also made with hooded bar lugs.






Ref 4297

Launched in 1944 and featuring a four-year perpetual calendar with moon phases and minute repeater.




Ref 4385

This reference from 1945 has the same case as Ref 4241 but with an integrated Milanese bracelet. Available in either yellow or rose gold with Calibre 485.




Ref 4444 / 6526

Introduced in 1946 as Ref 4444 and changed to Ref 6526 in 1962. This pocket watch features a four-year perpetual calendar with moon phases, a minute repeater and a chronograph.




Ref 4461

Launched in 1947, the Ref 4461 has a smaller 33.7mm case than the 4240L and large horn lugs.  Available in yellow and rose gold.




Ref 4462

From 1948, with an even smaller 32.5mm case and stepped lugs.  Also available in yellow and rose gold.




Ref 4560

From 1949, the Ref 4560 came with or without moon phases.  Larger 35.5mm case and stepped claw lugs.  Available in yellow and rose gold.




Ref 4623

Launched in 1950, the 32.5mm case features a wide sloping bezel and large horn lugs.  Available in yellow and rose gold.




Ref 4764 Cioccolatone

Introduced 1952, this watch is better known by the nickname given to it by Italian collectors who saw a resemblance to a certain small chocolate.  Substantial 36mm x 43mm case in yellow gold with some rare models in pink gold or exceptionally rare platinum.  Featuring the Calibre 495.




Ref 6010 / 6013

From 1955, with four-year perpetual calendar and moon phases.  Ref 6013, also from 1955, had the same functions but with a slightly different case design.






Ref 4293

Triple date with moon phases and minute repeater.  Movement from 1943, completed and sold in 1957 with large 38mm rose gold case. According to Vacheron & Constantin archives, two pieces were to be made but only one left the ateliers.








Ref 43031

There followed a long pause in multi-calendar watches until 1983 when the Ref 43031 was introduced.  Available in yellow gold or platinum using the extra-thin automatic Calibre 1120.




Ref 43032 Squelette

A skeletonized version of Ref 43031 followed in 1984, available in platinum or yellow gold.




Ref  43033 

From 1987, similar to Ref 43032 but with a 16-sided bezel.




Ref  46008 Quantième Simple

From 1987, simple day/date calendar watch with stepped case housing the Calibre 1126 QS and available in either yellow gold or two tone yellow gold/steel.




Ref 46009

Also from 1987 was this day/date with moon phases, in yellow gold or yellow gold/steel.




Ref 47008

Ref 46008 was replaced by this model in 1989 which featured a slightly different case design.  Only available in yellow gold.




Ref 47009

Also from 1989, this model replaced the Ref 46009.  Only available in yellow gold.



Ref 37150

From Les Historiques Collection and featuring a 36mm case with Calibre 1150 automatic movement.




Ref 47050

From 1992 Les Historiques collection, this model is the same as the Ref 37150 but with a Calibre 1126 automatic.  Available in yellow gold or platinum.




Ref 49005

Introduced in 1992 as Vacheron Constantin’s first perpetual calendar chronograph wrist watch and part of the “7 marvels” concept where Vacheron Constantin launched 7 watches each representing a technical or artistic prowess: extra flat, minute repeater, tourbillon, skeleton, gem set Kalla, pocket watch with enamel painting, and this model which represented “astronomical” time.  Calibre 1136 QP with perpetual calendar module made in-house. Made in 500 rose gold pieces and less than 300 platinum pieces.




Ref 30020

"In 1998/1999 the brand started working on this project, assigned to two men: Marcel Goy, Vacheron Constantin’s then Technical Director and Gerald Dubois, of Dubois-Depraz, the movement manufacturer. The goal was to recreate a mythical movement in line with the amazing extra flat repeater movement the brand had used in the 40s.

One must understand the challenge that this task posed, not only the original plans and drawings of that calibre were no longer available and due to the quartz crisis the industry was lacking a whole generation of watch makers, constructors, engineers etc… possessing the know-how and capable of working on such projects. Vacheron Constantin had to start from zero and it was a trial and error process by taking apart a vintage movement, studying it and trying to rebuild it.

One of the main difficulties, other than keeping the calibre thin, was building the perfect gongs capable of rendering not only a loud strike but also a pure and crisp chime. Legend doesn’t say if the gongs were dipped in horse urine as was done in the 18th century to harden them but in any event the magic formula was found.

Vacheron Constantin also experimented other ways in obtaining the best acoustics and this path took the brand to adapting the cases individually to each movement making the two inseparable (a movement could have a phenomenal chime in a case it was adapted for and a so-so chime in another).

In 1992 the calibre 1755 was introduced including a perpetual calendar in yellow gold platinum. The 3.28 mm repeater movement now measuring 4.9 mm with the extra perpetual calendar module. 

In a 36mm case it was a tribute to the fantastically beautiful tear drop lug repeaters it had gotten its inspiration from, the perpetual calendar was also very traditional in its implementation and inspired from Vacheron Constantin’s pocket watches where the months are given on a 4 year period without an extra hand for the leap year."  Alex Ghotbi




Ref 48100

Also from 1992, this 25 piece limited edition was made for the Japanese market. Calibre 1190 with date indication at 6 o’clock and power reserve at 12, available in either yellow gold or platinum.




Ref 48101

From 1992 Complications collection, with the same indications as Ref 48100 but a different style case, available either in yellow or white gold.




Ref 57215

From the 1993 Complications collection and available on order only.  Made in yellow gold with Calibre 1705 QP.  An open dial version was also available.





Ref 47052 / 47053

Introduced in the 1994 Complications collection, this watch was unusual in indicating not only the day/date and moon phases but also the week number on the periphery of the dial.  A version without moon phases was also available under Ref 47053.  Available in either white or yellow gold with the Calibre 1126 Q52.






Ref 47240

Made in 1995 to celebrate Vacheron Constantin's 240th anniversary (the 240 in the reference number).  Available in yellow or white gold or platinum, with Calibre 1127.




Ref 47051

From the 1999 Historiques collection as homage to the Ref 4140; a triple calendar without moon phases.  Available in yellow or white gold with Calibre 1126.  If anyone has an image of the Ref 4140, please add it to this thread - Tick Talk




Ref 47245

Launched in 2000 to mark the 245th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin and available in rose gold, white gold or platinum with Calibre 1126 QR (Quantieme Retrograde for the retrograde date indication).




Ref 47112 Malte Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

"Vacheron Constantin’s first manual wind perpetual calendar chronograph, launched in 2000 as one of the new Malte collection. One of the major features of this watch is its engraved moonphase disc which Vacheron Constantin continued using in the Tour de l’Ile and Patrimony Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph and has become in some ways a Vacheron Constantin signature. Housing calibre 1141QP this model was made in yellow gold and platinum an in production until 2006-2007."  Alex Ghotbi






References

  • Quantum Leap: History of Vacheron Constantin Calendar Watches by Alex Ghobti, Vacheron Constantin Community & Social Media Manager, The Hour Lounge internet forum, 22 September 2011



Best of The Hour Lounge will be taking a break for the summer months of July and August.  Tick Talk

  login to reply

Comments: view entire thread

 

I really LIKE the 4 or 5 letters

 
 By: patrickh : June 18th, 2021-06:34
for Day & Month. And of course, the 47112 for the awesome engraved Moon Phase. Great review and photos ++++

those models with the day and date aperture

 
 By: Tick Talk : June 18th, 2021-14:01
are so iconic of V&C they continue to inspire modern homage versions like the FiftySix Complete Calendar

Excellent review.

 
 By: Watchonthewrists : June 18th, 2021-07:19
Thanks for sharing .

Another great article - thank you Dean

 
 By: slungu : June 18th, 2021-12:17
As always very good read and watch If I would have to choose I would go with the Ref 30020, 4241 for daily use and the 4293 as top watch - I find that you look at them and at first glance you think VC. I actually also like the 43031 but I would go with th... 

Very nice shopping list :-)

 
 By: Tick Talk : June 18th, 2021-14:02
&

Never a problem - so many wonderful watches, so little money to spend on watches :(

 
 By: slungu : June 18th, 2021-17:00
But seriously, currently I just hope that my JLC Odyseeus comes back and I can finally wear it. I started thinking about shifting my focus on calendar complications andgo down in the number of watches I have ( not that I have that many, and I always choos... 

Another image of the ref. 6013

 
 By: respo : June 18th, 2021-12:57
Hi Dean, I took this photo (apologies for the poor quality) of ref. 6013 from 1955 at the new Flagship Boutique in NYC this week. Caliber 17"VQ beating inside. She's a beauty! I should mention this example is part of Les Collectionneurs and is available f...  

Excellent picture Robert

 
 By: Tick Talk : June 18th, 2021-13:55
just not showing the price tag ;-) How was the experience of the new boutique?