amanico
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Ulysse Nardin 2022 Collection: A quick view on the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Dual Time, Moonphase and Tourbillon Grand Feu.
Steel for the Dual Time and the Tourbillon Grand Feu, Rose Gold for the Moonphase.
The Dual Time shows the dual time on 24 hours, at 9 o' clock, the grande date at 2 o' clock. The dual time is one of Ulysse Nardin speciality, since 1994. You can select the dual time with the two pushers on the left side of the case. The date is synchronized with the dual time. And of course, you can set the date and the dual time forward and backward, as always with Ulysse Nardin.
The dial is sunray satin finished in blue.
The Cal UN-334 is automatic, made of 321 parts, 28, 800 vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve of 48 hours. The escapement wheel, anchor and balance spring are made of silicon.
The Moonphase offers an unexpected face to the Marine line. It adds some elegance and refinement to this tool watch. This is not a pure novelty as it was released in steel, last year, with a blue or white dial ( 300 pieces each ). Here, it is not a limited edition.
The dial is white varnished.
The movement is the Cal UN-119, automatic, made of 260 parts, beats at 28, 800 vibrations per hour, with a power reserve of 60 hours. The balance spring is in silicium, while the escapement wheel and anchor are in DiamonSil, a blend of silicium and synthetic diamond, which was inaugurated with the Freal DiamonSil, in 2009, if my memory serves me well.
The king of this threesome, in terms of Horology and refinement is the Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon Grand Feu is not a novelty, either. Indeed, we had a first Marine Tourbillon with an enamel dial in 2016, coming in a tubular lugs case, and last year, Ulysse Nardine issued the Marine Torpilleur Tourbillon with a Black Enamel Grand Feu dial, in a limited edition of 175 pieces, in rose gold only.
The dial is made of white enamel, and the case comes with traditional lugs.
The movement is the Cal UN-128, automatic, made of 208 parts, beating at 18, 000 alternances, with a silicium escapement wheel, anchor and balance spring, and a flying Tourbillon with Ulysse Anchor Constant Escapement.
All of these three new Marine Torpilleurs are certified chronometers.
Which one is your favorite?
I must say that the Tourbillon is my favorite. Even if I am still hoping that we'll see a white or black enamel one, time only, without date, with the power reserve indicator which is so much Ulysse Nardin!
Best,
Nicolas
More posts:
Ulysse Nardin 2022 Collection: A quick view on the Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Dual Time, Moonphase and Tourbillon Grand Feu.
Among these three new Marine Torpilleur, the Dual Time is the only one to come with a 44 mm case. The two others have a 42 mm case. All of them are 50 meters water resistant and have a see through case back. Steel for the Dual Time and the Tourbillon Gran...
I'm really scared to look at the back
Cases are unexplainably big. Is it supposed to be a sporty line, casual, elegant, or what? The moon phase and turbo might be better in terms of case/movement ratio, but I wonder who's there potential buyer of these watches. UN has a huge, unexpressed pote...
Not sure any of these can be considered 'tool watches' with just 50m water resistance...
...I would say that the 'Marine' name is a little optimistic...
"Cases are unexplainably big" well, not really.
The movement is quite large and fills out a 42mm case nicely. The outer edge on a 45mm is a bit wide, but actually still in good proportion. (I'm looking at both sizes as I type this.)
Moonphase is nice
Harmonious design My eyes went up and down the watch and found no sharp edges.
Still nice to see that UN hasn't ruined their historic design completely. Decent looking versions of the original.
I hope they can get back on track with some of the other designs. ...
My verdict
44mm for a case is too much in the face, so the golden mp and tourbillon is my choice. To be a realist a tourbillon is exotic and a mp gold just wat i want, so that is the best for my situation.
They are all lovely pieces...
...but I would wish for at least 100m water resistance. Especially someone had mentioned earlier with "Marine" being in the name.. 44mm a bit large for me, but whilst I understand the design aesthetics of the Marine Torpilleur, having some luminosity for ...
