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The Grand Seiko First & its many recreations
The Grand Seiko First, released in 1960, can probably be considered one of the most significant watches in the history of Japanese horology.
It marks the moment when Japan decided to compete directly with Switzerland in the realms of high precision and high finishing.
Since 2001, Grand Seiko has recreated this historic watch many times.
So, here's a complete overview of the recreations made since then: they tend to look alike, but you have to pay attention to the details and, with a bit of luck, you'll make some discoveries.
35 × 10.5 mm case - Hand-wound caliber 3180
The dial features:
- "Chronometer" under the Grand Seiko logo
- The Special Dial logo (the octagonal sun shaped star) underneath the Diashock text: this symbol indicates that the indices are made from solid precious metal, and not just plated
a/ 14k gold filled variant
credit: Arbitro
b/ Platinum variant
credit: Christie’s
2001 - REF. SBGW004
The word “Chronometer” is missing from the dial under the Grand Seiko logo
35 mm case & caliber 9S54
Pin buckles: Ref.J14070 (left) & Ref. SBGW004 (right)
credit: @classyman_watches, @seiko.addict, kyotoya78 & antiwatchman
2011 - 130th ANNIVERSARY OF SEIKO
All three references: 35.8 mm case and caliber 9S64
The word “Chronometer” is missing from the dial under the Grand Seiko logo
1/ STEEL REF. SBGW033
No Special Dial logo (octagonal star) under the Diashock text
credit: Hodinkee
2/ PLATINUM REF. SBGW039
No Special Dial logo (octagonal star) under the Diashock text: as the indices of this platinum version were probably made out of precious metal, the absence of the SD mark could be a design decision, in order to keep a consistent dial design across the three models released that year
credit: Phillips & Arizona Fine Time (2)
2/ YELLOW GOLD REF. SBGW040
Again, no Special Dial logo (octagonal star) under the Diashock text
credit: @tedsustraps & Grand Seiko
2017 - GRAND SEIKO SEPARATES FROM ITS PARENT COMPANY
All three references: 38 mm case & caliber 9S64
No word “Chronometer” under the Grand Seiko logo, but the platinum and yellow gold variants feature the Special Dial logo (octagonal star) under the Diashock text
Platinum ref. SBGW251 (left) - Yellow gold ref. SBGW252 (centre) - Steel ref. SBGW253 (right)
credit: Sjx
1/ Ref. SBGW251 platinum
Limited to 136 pcs as 2017 was the 136th Anniversary of Seiko
2/ Ref. SBGW252 yellow gold
2/ Ref. SBGW252 yellow gold
Limited to 353 pcs as the Grand Seiko First was launched on the 353rd day of 1960: December 18th
3/ Ref. SBGW253 steel
3/ Ref. SBGW253 steel
Limited to 1960 pcs as the Grand Seiko First was launched in 1960
credit: Sjx (platinum), Monochrom (yellow gold) & Special dial (steel)
1/ PLATINUM REF. SBGW257
Carved Grand Seiko logo
No word “Chronometer” under the Grand Seiko logo, but Special Dial logo (octagonal star) under the Diashock text
credit: Monochrome
credit: Fratello
Platinum SBGW257 (left) & titanium SBGW259 (right)
credit: Monochrome
1/ PINK GOLD REF. SBGW260
Limited to only 12 pieces
Additional strap coming with the watch
credit: @plus9time
I have also previously included this piece in the following thread: Five Micro Artist Studio Masterpieces
credit: @watchbonsai
38 mm brilliant hard titanium case & 9S64 caliber
Additional strap coming with the watch
credit: Belmont Watches, @luxuria_cockaigne & @tokei.dokei
credit: Sjx (platinum), Monochrom (yellow gold) & Special dial (steel)
2020 - 60th ANNIVERSARY OF GRAND SEIKO
All three references: 38 mm case & caliber 9S64
Introduction of the display case back
Carved Grand Seiko logo
No word “Chronometer” under the Grand Seiko logo, but Special Dial logo (octagonal star) under the Diashock text
credit: Monochrome
2/ YELLOW GOLD REF. SBGW258
No word “Chronometer” under the Grand Seiko logo, but Special Dial logo (octagonal star) under the Diashock text
credit: Fratello
3/ BRILLIANT HARD TITANIUM & DEEP BLUE DIAL REF. SBGW259
No word “Chronometer” under the Grand Seiko logo and no Special Dial logo (octagonal star) under the Diashock text
Platinum SBGW257 (left) & titanium SBGW259 (right)
credit: Monochrome
2021 - SEIKO'S 140th ANNIVERSARY
All three references: 38 mm case & 9S64 caliber with additional gold plate featuring the Seikosha “S” trademark
No word “Chronometer” under the Grand Seiko logo, but Special Dial logo (octagonal star)
First recreation in pink gold
Limited to 350 pcs
credit: thisiswatchable
credit: thisiswatchable
2/ PLATINUM REF. SBGW271
Additional strap coming with the watch
credit: @plus9time
3/ PLATINUM REF. SBGZ005
37.5 mm case
9R02 manually wound Spring Drive caliber (reason why there is no "Diashock" text on the dial at 6 o'clock)
Limited to 50 pieces commemorating the 160th anniversary of the birth of Seiko’s founder, Kintaro Hattori
credit: @watchbonsai
2023 - 110th ANNIVERSARY OF THE "LAUREL", THE VERY FIRST SEIKO WRISTWATCH
Black urushi lacquer dial, with hand painted 24-carat gold powder maki-e hour indices and lettering
No word “Chronometer” under the Grand Seiko logo and no Special Dial logo (octagonal star) under the Diashock text
Limited to 500 pieces
credit: Les Rhabilleurs, @peacenskeet & @Wide_Passage_9067
credit: Les Rhabilleurs, @peacenskeet & @Wide_Passage_9067
2024 - SINGAPORE LIMITED EDITION, REF. SBGW315
38 mm titanium case & caliber 9S64
Patterned, powder blue dial
No word “Chronometer” under the Grand Seiko logo and no Special Dial logo (octagonal star) under the Diashock text
Limited to 88 pieces for the opening of Grand Seiko's first Boutique in Singapore
Additional strap coming with the watch
credit: Belmont Watches, @luxuria_cockaigne & @tokei.dokei
Is there a particular model you like?
If you want to learn more, please check this article by the Grand Seiko guy: Grand Seiko "First" recreations - a primer for collectors
Thanks for reading.
Best, Emmanuel
The Grand Seiko First & its many recreations
The Grand Seiko First , released in 1960 , can probably be considered one of the most significant watches in the history of Japanese horology. It marks the moment when Japan decided to compete directly with Switzerland in the realms of high precision and ...
Thank you for this comprehensive post, Emmanuel!
What an education re Grand Seikos. I love all of them, especially the platinum with the blue dial, and the titanium examples, particularly the Singapore version with the light blue dial. I suppose many are unobtainable but they certainly are terrific eye ...
I'm glad you enjoyed the post!
My personal goal would be to score an original 14k gold filled J14070 (platinum is probably too difficult to find and expensive too). The rarest of all is platinum SBGW271, with only 12 pieces: I haven't even been able to find some live photos of that wat...
I'm really glad you enjoyed the post!
The GS First is wonderful and I hope I'll be able to find an OG example someday. In the meantime, I couldn't be happier than enjoying SLGW005. Best, Emmanuel ...
I think this could be due
to the fact that the brand has a somewhat hybrid identity, with an offering ranging from relatively affordable industrial production to high-end products that are mostly handmade (Micro Artist Studio). Best, Emmanuel
One feature I really appreciate, or lack of a feature, is no date.
These elegant watches present much better, in my opinion, with no date.
It may or may not be my birth year, and...
...I may or may not have lived in Japan for a bit. So it would have special meaning to me : )
Well, you should really search for one!
It would be very special and meaningful for you.
Nothing like a birth year watch!
Dating or should I say aging myself, but here’s a 1961 Tudor Submariner. I have an obsession with acquiring more birth year watches in case anyone wishes to part with a 1971! ...
Nice!
...I have thought of this before, as there are some really nice watches in out 'era.' Cars too.
These are very refined pieces, quattro.
But refined in a way that the watch would work easily with jeans as with a tuxedo. The habillage (not sure about the Japanese word for this) is remarkable. Glad I snagged a 253 when they were released. ...
Love these!
I have the steel one in 1960 pieces. I picked it up when the model first came out whenever that was 😂. Still in the collection. Picture taken when I was still working and on a trip to Virginia Beach, VA for a client sales call. I just ordered a new strap ...
This 253 is a wonderful piece! I hope the new strap will give you the desire to wear it more!
Looking forward to seeing your photos! Best, Emmanuel
Thanks, Emmanuel!
The strap on it is the original and actually a little long. Stupid things like this actually hinder me wearing a watch 😁
Beauty, Champ!
You're right about that strap being a bit long. But it too is beautifully made and supple. Are you getting another strap from Seiko, if I may ask?
Thank you my friend!
You are spot on. The original is super soft and beautiful. I thought that the boutique possibly sold me an extra long strap because my wrist is larger than average. Thanks for your input👍
Exact same problem for me with the strap of the SLGW005.
I still have to see if I can get a shorter OEM one, and brown rather than black. A bit like this one! ...
Yes, the whole line is wonderful.
The titanium/blue doesn’t appeal to me personally, but I understand why others like it of course. Best, Emmanuel
Beautiful pieces and a wonderful summary, thanks for preparing / sharing !
Among them, the platinum REF. SBGW039 is my favorite. I'm glad to own one of the pieces there,from 2001, the REF. SBGW004.
Lucky you! the SBGW004 is a wonderful timepiece, imo.
Concerning the SBGW039, I miss the Special Dial logo under the Diashock text, personally. Best, Emmanuel
oops, I got my ref # wrong -- my fave among them = SBGW257
Gotta love that engraved "Grand Seiko" on the dial ! My SBGW004 is a lovely piece, but alas, at 36mm, a too small for my current tastes to see significant wrist time.
Too bad for your SBGW004!
I completely agree with you concerning the SBGW257: the carved logo is wonderful!
Thank you for this series, sorry I am late
SBGW033 So many Grand Seikos, “so little time!” Etc… and the Credors? Sadly Snowflake is in the “repair” box 😢 Cazalea ...
It’s a wonderful collection you have here!
I like the SBGW033 very much. Would love to find an original J14070 someday. I hope the Snowflake will get a service: are you doing it yourself ? Thanks for sharing. Best, Emmanuel
No, it will go to Seiko in New Jersey
Yo Japan if they deem it necessary. I packed it up then forgot to mail it, and rediscovered it recently on my workbench. I know, shame on me, but I have been distracted with other things.
Hopefully, you’ll get it back
working well not too long after you have sent it! I wish your watch a quick recovery ! ;-)
Thanks so much for collating all of the modern reissues 👌🏻👍🏻
Had no idea they were quite so many (one misses the odd one these days 😂🤷🏻♂️). While the Micro Artist one has to be my overall favorite I do prefer the earlier, 35,8mm ones to the slightly larger later ones in terms of case size. Definitely a line to eve...
I agree that the Micro Artist is in a range of its own.
And I would personally like to find an OG, J14070, with both the "chronometer" writing and the Special Dial logo. Maybe someday! Best, Emmanuel