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Patek Philippe's new ref. 5328G & its background
The new Calatrava 8-Days power reserve, instantaneous day & date, ref. 5328G-001, powered by caliber 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J can be seen as an innovative combination of two sources of inspiration:
- 2013's Gondolo 8-Days ref. 5200G-001, powered by the properly rectangular shaped caliber 28-20 REC 8J PS IRM C J
- 2022's Calatrava ref. 5226G-001 powered by caliber 26-330 S C/430 & Annual Calendar Travel Time ref. 5326G-001, powered by caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H
- With the 5200G-001, the new 5328G-001 shares the blue dial and the idea of an 8-Days caliber with day & date indicator. But this idea is brought to another level with the introduction of an instantaneous jumping day & date indication. Moreover, whereas the caliber of the 5200G, though beautiful and great in its own right, had faux finger bridges, the new caliber of the 5328G seems to be devoid of such a problem (but I might be wrong: please feel free to correct me) and looks quite gorgeous (if you want to know more about the caliber of the 5200G, please check the in-depth dive by AndCavanaugh).
- With the 5226G and 5326G, the new 5328G-001 shares the textured gradient dial, the lumed syringe hands and numerals, and the case design, with a guilloched caseband with hobnail pattern and lugs only attached to the back of the case.
Let's dive in!
Best, Emmanuel
A/ Ref. 5328G-001 (2025)
41 x 10,52 mm case & caliber 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J
The movement, which integrates the Pulsomax escapement with lever and a Silinvar escape wheel, is the result of the ‘Advanced Research’ programme. Two barrels provide the hand-wound calibre with the power to work precisely for 192 hours, and there's even room for a 9th ‘reserve day’ for a further 24 hours on the display at twelve o’clock.
credit: Teddy Baldassarre
B/ Ref. 5200G-001 (2013)
32.40 x 11.63 mm case & rectangular caliber 28-20 REC 8J PS IRM C J
credit: bachmann & scher (1), Hodinkee (2, 3, 5), s.song (4) & watch collectors (6)
C/ Ref. 5226G-001 (2022)
40 x 8.53 mm case & caliber 26-330 S C/430
credit: Swisswatches Magazine (1) & beyond the dial (2-5)
D/ Ref. 5326G-001 (2022)
41 x 11.07 mm case & caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H
credit: monochrome (1-3) & Swisswatches magazine
Patek Philippe's new ref. 5328G & its background
The new Calatrava 8-Days power reserve , instantaneous day & date , ref. 5328G-001 , powered by caliber 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J can be seen as an innovative combination of two sources of inspiration: 2013's Gondolo 8-Days ref. 5200G-001 , powered by the pro...
They're allergic to interior angles...but have fantastic architectural sense.
I don't know how I feel about the dials of these, but the movements are enough to be interesting. This is a case in which I'd be wearing it movement side up (for the new reference in question)!
Because I'm not that much into blue,
I think I prefer the 5226 & 5326: the brown colors speak to me more. As for the lack of interior angles, it's really something I regret. Best, Emmanuel
Indeed, the aesthetic link is obvious and I agree with you concerning the movement.
I just wish there was at least one interior angle. Best, Emmanuel
That made me wonder. What is the cheapest Patek with open caseback and at least one internal angle. Current catalogue or neo-vintage.
Discontinued: 5070 and current: 5373?
I don't know exactly, but you might be right concerning the 5373...
5326G, 5224R & 5236P have a sharp outward angle...
5200 G was a singularly unpopular watch. While I like rectangular and other shaped watches, I was not very taken with 5200G. It will be interesting to see
if the round case of 5328G and IMO much more attractive case and dial create much interest in this watch. Not sure that it will. But as the saying goes, time will tell.
5100 and 5101 were far more attractive rectangular watches than 5200, imo.
It may be part of the reason for the unpopularity. As you say, let's wait and see. PS: I'm hoping to be able to see 5100J and R in the metal next week.
5100 J and R are in my opinion far more appealing than 5200G.
I would be very interested in reading how you feel about 5100 J and R. Great watches at ridiculously low prices for such special watches.
I'll let you know how it turns out.
I'm very much looking forward to this hands on experience.
I like the case with the hobnail detail around
and the unique way the lugs are on the bottom caseback attached instead of the to or center of the case. One thing that bothers me is the “8 days” in the bottom subdial. I find it unnecessary and distracting. I personally really like the 5226G and hope to...
The 8 days doesn't bother me, personally.
But I'm not into this blue color scheme. So I also prefer 5226G and hope you'll be able to add it to your collection. Best, Emmanuel
Thank you for the great writing up, Emmanuel. The blue vulcanite gradient dial and layout of the new caliber with traditional looking bridges are gorgeous.
May I clarify the old 5200, apparently it also has the instantaneous calendar change, despite only have the C in the caliber coding? Best, Henry
You're absolutely right, Henry: thank you for this correction.
I've been able to download the official documentation concerning caliber 28-20 REC 8J PS IRM C J and it confirms that the change is instantaneous. So, I don't really understand what difference the "CI" makes in the new caliber, if any. Thanks again. Best,...
Good write-up Emmanuel ! 👍
This new movement enables the 8-days function be brought into a round case. I personally like the blue dial but feel that the strap can be enhanced with another color (say black) to provide more contrast to the lovely “leica” dial. Overall IMO it is an in...
Thanks for sharing your impressions and photos.
It certainly is a nice new watch, but as I'm not fond of blue, I think I prefer the previous "Leica" Calatrava 5226G. The brown colors speak more to me.
This was one of my favorite releases of WW.
It’s absolutely beautiful. They had me with the syringe hands. But I also love the movement design. And the functionality of the watch itself. I think Patek hit it out of the park with this one.
Because I like the warmer brown tones of the 5226 & 5326,
I hope they'll make a variant with the same colors. But the blue is really well done nonetheless. And I agree with what you say of this model. Best, Emmanuel