quattro
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Making a case for Patek Philippe's ref. 5123 with cal. 215 PS ?
The release of the new Calatrava ref. 6196P got me thinking (a thread dedicated to this reference can be found here).
It uses the 30-255 PS caliber which was introduced in 2021 with the ref. 6119. With its diameter of 31 mm, this caliber is much better suited to cases of 37-38 mm than the previous caliber 215 PS, which is only 21.9 mm large.
(credit: hodinkee)
However, I happen to like the design/architecture of the 215 PS much more than the one of the 30-255 PS: I find it both more faithful to traditional watchmaking and more pleasing to look at (just my personal taste, of course).
And it reminded me that, in 2012, Patek Philippe had made what I consider to be a very interesting attempt to use and even display the caliber 215 PS in a 38 mm case: the very much overlooked Calatrava ref. 5123 has indeed a case which is way too large for this small caliber, but its "disco volante" inspired design makes a strength (or at least an interesting element, imo) of what is, objectively, a weakness.
This design includes a very unusual and surprising 17 mm lug-width, which emphasises the "disco volante" look of the watch, a very round shape which is probably not to everybody's taste, but which I personally like.
Let's have a look (case dimensions: 38 x 8.3 x 39 mm) !
Ref. 5123R-001 (a dedicated review of this model from 2012 by foversta can be found here)
credit: @thehairywrist (1), @operawatches_zurich (2), @atri.vn (3), JC@toffeesthings (4-7), italy zuola int. fashion limited (8-9), the 1916 company (10-14), l’ora del Gallo (15) & ocrolexguy on rolexforums (16-21)
The "disco volante" design of the ref. 5123, hiding the lugs beneath the case, finds some of its roots in at least four older models from the 1950s and 1960s: ref. 2501, 2572, 2573 & 2591:
a/ Ref. 2501, with a 34 mm case & powered by cal. 10-200 (to which I dedicated a separate thread)
credit: Paul Duggan fine watches
b/ Ref. 2572 with a 36 mm case & powered by cal. 10-200
credit: pascal karp
c/ Ref. 2573 with a 33 mm case & powered by cal. 10-200
credit: warren's watches (1), atelier tempus (2-4) & loupe this (5)
d/ Ref. 2591 with a 34 mm LUG-LESS case & powered by cal. 23-300 without small seconds
credit: wind vintage (1-2) & coinwatcco (3)
As a conclusion, let me just add this interview with Philippe Stern by Jean-Philippe Arm, where Patek Philippe's honorary President explains the conception of the ref. 5123. This interview comes from the Patek Philippe Magazine, volume III, n° 8, and was kindly pointed out and forwarded to me by bruckner4.
credit: Patek Philippe Magazine, volume III, n° 8
Thanks for reading!
Best, Emmanuel
Review of the ref. 5123 by Tim Mosso
Making a case for Patek Philippe's ref. 5123 with cal. 215 PS ?
The release of the new Calatrava ref. 6196P got me thinking (a thread dedicated to this reference can be found here ). It uses the 30-255 PS caliber which was introduced in 2021 with the ref. 6119 . With its diameter of 31 mm , this caliber is much better...
Thanks Emmanuelle for this extensive write-up !
Hopefully Patek could take notice of your suggestions. Perhaps you should apply for a job there !
Aha! It would be a great pleasure
to work for this Maison, but I don't think they need me, unfortunately! ;-) Cheers, Emmanuel
The construction of the 5123
Strongly reminds me of the JLC MUT, especially with the see through caseback.
Absolutely!
It's also close to some models highlighted in this thread . Cheers, Emmanuel Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin - Ref. 145.8.79 S (credit: ColoradoWatches) ...
Love the disco volantes 👌🏻👍🏻
Such a cool shape 🙌🏻 Thanks for another informative post 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Great write up Mr Q
Alas I had a ref 2591 ( I used to call it legless rather than lug lees) Sold many years ago Julian
As we say 'gone but not forgotten'!
Thank you for the kind words, Julian. Best, Emmanuel
A lot to like here, quattro.
I seem to remember an article in PP Magazine asserting Philippe Stern's advocacy for revisiting the short under-slung lugs of the vintage pieces you include here. I've had it on wrist before and have found it a real gem.
Is it the 5123 you've tried on in the past?
Unfortunately, I don't receive the PP magazine...
Yes, the 5123.
Very well sized for me. And I thought the bold indexes make for very versatile Calatrava. Would love to pick one up someday...
That's a very interesting feedback for me:
now, I want even more to see one in the metal. Thank you!
The article I referenced, quattro.
From Volume III, No. 8. Please delete if at all against Purists rules. ...
I decided to add the interview to the thread
because it really complements it in a great way. Thanks again. Btw, I've listened over and over these past days to the last movement of Bruckner's 4th symphony directed by Rémy Ballot in St Florian in 2021 and recorded by Gramola. Such a great piece and i...
Great!
Very glad you found it useful, quattro. Re. Altomonte's version of the 4th -- I found a clip on YouTube. They sound fantastic! Must be amazing hearing Bruckner in St. Florian's (he's buried in the crypt there). And coincidently, I just received my subscri...
Yes, buried right here!
Salonen conducting the 4th with the BSO: lucky you! His aesthetic will probably be completely opposite to that of Ballot, but not least interesting! ...