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Patek Philippe's crown guards dress watches
Crown guards are usually featured in sports watches, but Patek Philippe has used them in a very interesting way in dress watches.
See for yourself.
The models are organised by family of complication and, just for the fun of going against my natural inclination towards colored gold, I decided to include in this thread only examples in white gold or platinum!
Best, Emmanuel
PS: even if it might be a debatable choice, I decided to leave aside models, like ref. 5124 and 5200, or even 5320 or 5172, which have a crown recessed into the case rather than "true" crown guards.
A/ SMALL SECONDS WITHOUT DATE
1/ Ref. 5115G-001 (35 x 8 mm case & cal 215 PS)
credit: patek-philippe.blogspot.hk
2/ Ref. 5100G-001 (34 x 46 mm case & cal. 28-20/220 REC 10J PS IRM)
credit: s.song
B/ CENTER SECONDS & DATE
1/ Ref. 5107G-001 (37 mm case & cal. 315 SC)
credit: 41watch
2/ Ref. 5108G-010 (37 mm case & cal. 315 SC)
credit: bezel
3/ Ref. 5117G-00 (37 mm case & cal. 315 SC)
credit: watch collectors
4/ 5118P-001 (37 mm case & cal. 315 SC)
credit: aaron kok@aaron3683 on carousell
5/ Ref. 5127G-001 (37 mm case & cal. 315 SC) The ref. 5127 replaced the ref. 5107, initially introduced in 2002, around 2005/6: both models are almost identical, but the 5107 has a slightly flatter bezel.
credit: loupe this
C/ ANNUAL CALENDAR MOON PHASES
Ref. 5125P-001 Limited edition made to celebrate the 125th anniversary of Wempe in 2003. 475 pieces were made: 125 in each of the three golds & 100 in platinum. (36,5 x 11 mm case & caliber 315 S QA LU 35 R)
credit: the time trader & European watch company (medal)
credit: bulang & sons
credit: 41watch
credit: wind vintage
D/ TRAVEL TIME
Ref. 5134G-001 (37 x 9,8 mm & cal. 215 PS FUS 24H)
credit: bulang & sons
E/ WORLD TIME
1/ Ref. 5110P-001 (37 x 9,8 mm case & cal. 240 HU)
credit: 41watch
2/ Ref. 5130G-019 (39,5 x 10,61 mm case & cal. 240 HU)
credit: wind vintage
3/ Ref. 5131/1P-001 (39,5 x 10,61 mm case & cal. 240 HU)
credit: Sjx (1) & lambertzhao
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Patek Philippe's crown guards dress watches
Crown guards are usually featured in sports watches, but Patek Philippe has used them in a very interesting way in dress watches . See for yourself. The models are organised by family of complication and, just for the fun of going against my natural incli...
My fav has to be the 5107 - the whole case shape is really nice
And min dots aligns perfectly with the edge of the date window Thanks for collating the pics..
The 5107 (and 5127) is really nice, yes.
But my personal favorites, here, are 5110 and, even more, 5100 (which has something truly unique and a wonderful caliber). Just my preference of course. Thanks for looking and commenting. Best, Emmanuel
Same choice for me as well.
These models stand out so much. The 5107 (or 5127) is quite nice too, though. Cheers, Emmanuel
Same duo for me.
With that little extra unique something with the 5100. Best, Emmanuel
You mean "Clous de Paris" ;-)
The 5117 is nice indeed, but the 5115, which is almost identical with a Clous de Paris bezel, has an enamel dial, which I personally prefer. Best, Emmanuel
If I had the chance to compare both side by side
in real life, I could very well come to share your preference…
5127G for me.
I like that the date window doesn’t cut in the minute marker track. Very clean and timeless. Great lineup nevertheless, thank you.
I agree that 5127 (and 5107, which is almost identical)
are very well done and attractive. But my personal favorites here are 5110 and, even more, 5100 (just my preference of course). Cheers, Emmanuel
Yes both the 5110 and 5100 are nice and a staple for Patek.
In my case, I debated so long on which I like more the 5110 or 5130 that I can’t read eider anymore, as for the 5100, I had the G and due to the curved Cristal the legibility was poor. First world problems, I know… The movement on the other hand… ...
I like mostly modern.
But after breaking ties with my AD, I doubt I’ll ever get any new once and I have no intention off starting from scratch somewhere else, so vintage is my only option. But honestly, I’m not itching for buying anything for over a year now!
Of course, I completely understand your choice
and there wasn’t any judgement in my question. On the contrary I find it very interesting to have the feedback of a true owner, especially as I’m quite attracted to the 5100J (which, hopefully, has no such legibility issue, its dial being matte and the ye...
I didn’t took it as such, no worries!
Same as you, I’m a champion of true owner reviews, specially post honeymoon period As for the 5100, I agree with you, the “J” is the most legible, but would like to see the “R” in the metal as well.
I've had the chance to see both J and R recently
(I've written down my thoughts here if you're interested) and, even if I liked very much the warmer, darker look of it, I didn't fully respond to the sunburst grey dial: I liked the matte grainy silver dial of the yellow gold variant better. As for legibi...
Great post as always!
Coincidentally, wearing this today and seeing your post with my 5117G fresh back from H. Stern service. It is a great, classic piece and perfect dress sizing. ...
Great coincidence!
And wonderful shot and timepiece (double signed: cherry on top) ! Best, Emmanuel
Yes, of course Gordon!
Now I wonder why I stopped with ref. 5130 (silly me)... But luckily, I can correct my oversight! Cheers, Emmanuel
True, using these
crown guards on dressier models was a bold but great idea. Best, Emmanuel
My favourite among Patek dress watches with crown guards has to be 5107P black...
... ahead of 5110P. Between the "flat" bezel 5107 and the "round" bezel 5127 I'd always go 5107.
I fully understand your choice.
5107 seems to be a very nice model. Unfortunately, I haven't seen one in real life yet. My personal favorites would be 5110 and, even more, 5100, but I've seen them in real life, so who knows how I would feel if I had also handled a 5107? Have a great wee...
Your 5134 looks really good!
This reference seems really underrated. I would be very interested to see one in real life. Thanks for sharing your beautiful photo and have a great weekend. Best, Emmanuel
You really own two of the best pieces of this "crown guards family".
I'm also a little obsessed with the 5100, which, with its unique design and caliber, has this little "je-ne-sais-quoi" which makes it feel so special. Wishing you a great weekend. Best, Emmanuel
It’s exactly the debate
I’m having in my mind now that I’ve seen and loved the J in the metal: will I really wear it as daily and easily as I do my other three gold watches? I still have a doubt but am very tempted at the same time… Thanks for your insight, Carsten.
My wrist is only 16 cm
and I found the 5100 to fit well: you can see photos of my hands-on experience here . The issue I have with this watch isn't its size, it's its thickness and rectangular shape, which makes doubt if I would wear it as easily and daily as my other gold watc...
I am delighted to see to many reactions to this interesting topic
I am also a big fan of these crown guards and I can't mention all the references that I love in your list as there are too many 5107 and 5127 are probably the most simple ones in your list but they have always been in my fav list. 5125R and 5110P are defi...
Thanks a lot for your comment, Mike.
I've never seen a 5107 or 5127 in real life, but these references seem very nice indeed. I think that two elements, though, would keep me away from them: the date window, which I'm not fond of, and the central rotor caliber, which I find a bit too "ordina...
Thank you very much for adding these two variants, that I missed.
Do you like the crown guards models? Best, Emmanuel