Patek Philippe

Langeholic
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“Hand finished” is a misleading statement.

Let me clarify one thing, ALL brands machine finish. The difference is the rare few continue with an element of hand finishing and sometimes they use electric hand tools, which technically is still machine finishing.

I have visited many factories and thoroughly probed this particular point as I not only collect complications, but am perplexed at the current pricing in the market for such timepieces. I wanted to understand if the increase in price tag equates to a higher quality “hand finish”.

Patek and Lange are the best finished, mass production timepieces bar none. VC is a close second, but I their finishing less polished.

My observation concluded that Lange tend to have a more homogeneous approach to finishing, they finish to the same exceptional level across their entire range. They can do this because they only produce c.5000-6000 timepieces per annum. This is reflected in the machinery they use. Although in some cases it is very advanced, the abundance of machinery in the Lange factory is not as evident as its Swiss counterparts. There is definitely a more enshrined sense of hand finishing at Lange, but I sense this will change as the business grows.

The Patek factory has some of the latest technology in watch manufacturing, some machinery is actually bespoke to them. It feels very clinical and well organised. Patek is further along in its story than Lange, it’s production numbers are tenfold, demand is far higher and TS strategy is to expand their range and attract a new and younger audience as well as attract women to the brand. Patek built a new, high tech factory outside of Geneva (hence why they needed to forfeit the Geneva stamp). The use of machinery is abundant even in the highest complications, however there is strong evidence of hand finishing where it matters and fantastic craftsmanship, not to mention strict quality control.

The difference between Patek and Lange is that Lange’s finishing stands out more at the lower price points, but Patek still dominates the higher price points. Patek’s movements are finer and require greater skill. The 5959 is a fantastic example of this, but this can also be evidenced in models such as the 5170 and 5370.

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