Officine Panerai

I have been trying to read up on the 317 as much as I can, but I still wonder what the PuristS generally think about the 317.  Is it a good option for a first Panerai?  I am just beginning to think, perhaps seriously, about this one after having admired it since it was first announced.   I have been looking for a black watch for a while now, but circumstances have not allowed me to find the right one yet. 

I have to admit, if I were to go for this one, I would want one with a PVD'd movement. Is it foolish to set one's heart on that?  Do all K-series 317s come with the PVD'd movement and did the switch to the smoked crystal coincide with the release of the L-series?  How can one be sure one is getting the PVD'd movement?

Any thoughts would be most welcome.

Thanks,

respo

... a good first, second, third or whatever number Panerai.

Yes, get the PVD version, but I am not sure the boutiques still sell them. All K-series are PVD all L series smoked glass...

Here are my babies:

panerai.watchprosite.com

It's one of the more pricey Panerai's so it's usually not people's 1st, but if it works for you, then I'd highly suggest it.

Only way to be sure you're getting a PAM317 with the PVD'ed movement is to look at the movement with your own eyes.  So if you're buying in secondary market, try to do a face-to-face transaction.

Cheers,
Anthony

I am sure that is good advice, Anthony.

As a first PAM, I wonder if I might not get myself in over my head with this one.  Among the things I am considering is the willingness and expense for Panerai to re-coat the parts of the movement that are PVD'd as well as the consequences of having functional parts coated through the PVD process.  The fact that Panerai stopped making the PVD'd movement because it was either too difficult or too expensive indicates that there will be no easy or inexpensive fixes in the future for these models.  And the watch is too new to know if any issues will arise as a result of the coating (e.g., dust from the coating wearing off, etc.). At the same time, I think I would only go for the K-series on this PAM -- it is a big part of what makes this watch so special, IMHO.  The entire case made in ceramic is another issue I am a little concerned about, having seen the photos of the 317 and the ceramic IWC Doppel chrono that both cracked when dropped.  I am careful with my watches, but I also wear them. I have discussed on these forums before the merits and risks associated with ceramic cases, and I am still on the fence about them howver much I like the look.

Anyway, just things I am thinking about with regard to the 317.

Best,

respo 

IMHO, if Panerai truly cannot repair or service the PVD movement, they should not have productized and shipped the 500 317K in the first place.  I have to imagine if the PVD bridges were that hard to make, Panerai would have made and set aside spares for future services.

It is also unclear whether the manufacturing challenges Panerai claimed was permanent, temporary, or just a marketing ploy to promote the watch.  e.g. Panerai cited manufacturing difficulties and discontinued the pig dial on the 292 since the K series, so why is Panerai doing pig dials on the new boutique models?

With regard to the ceramic case, there is no deny that it is brittle and prone to crack if you drop the watch on hard surfaces.  I think eventually when the manufactruing costs come down, Panerai will retire ceramic in favor of the composite, which is harder but not as brittle.  I think the new 386 is Panerai's attempt to see if they can build a Luminor with the new material.  The Luminor case, with the crown guard, will be a little more challenging than the 47mm Radiomir and so a good next step for the company to try to make.  The monopusher chrono case is tad more complex than a regular Luminor due to the hole needed for the chrono push button, so perhaps in not too distant future, we may see a P2004 in a composite case. 

If you like the 317 and can get one from the K series, go for it.  Some long time Panerai collectors think the 317 is too busy and it deviates from the Panerai tradition - time only hand wound.  I on the other hand thinks the watch looks great; the dial is balanced, the scratch resistant case is great and the PVD movement is really cool.  The watch is very understated.  It looks just like any other big black quartz watch in a distance.  I can wear it anywhere, even at work, without attracting any unwanted questions or attentions.  My 317K is the only PAM I have, although not my first PAM as I had a 270 before.

Good luck.

Regards,

Blue

I appreciate your giving me some perspective on the 317.  It's interesting that it is your only Panerai.  This might very well be my only one if I were to get it as well. Also interesting that you find this one to fly under the radar a bit. I would be pleasantly surprised if that is the case.  I am still curious as to how the PVD'd movement will work out in the long run.  I have no doubts that Panerai will take care of any issues that arise and will provide service for the movement, but I am still anticipating that it willbe expensive for this piece in particular. 

Your photo is great -- what an amazing looking watch!

Thanks again for the perspective Blue.  You have given me some more to think about.

Best,

respo

i was under the impression that the maunfacturing difficulties faced by panerai with the colored movement lies in the thickness of the coating which affects the way the movement parts are put together due to tight tolerances.

similar issues have arisen and been solved by other manufactures having made colored movements so i would imagine the issue panerai faces is not entirely new.

the decision to stop production probably has much more to do with cost-benefits and is commercially driven, i would imagine. this means after service of the movement should not become an issue, unless panerai decides that it is not commercially prudent to allocate resources to servicing the colored movements in the long run, which i feel is unlikely to happen.

The 317 is probably one of the best 44MM luminors out there.

Just make sure that you get one with the PVD'd movement.

I would definitely hold out for a K with the PVD movement.



Craig

you grab it!

Imran

 

But I tend to overthink these things. 

Best,

respo

Respo,

I've been waiting for mine for almost 2 and half years, but I consoder that it is well worth waiting for the watch it is simply stellar.

I held a 317 L series in my hands for a few moments and the smoked glass case back is pretty nice, though clearly not as nice as the PVD.

If you want a PVD movement, just make sure the case back indicates that it is a K series.

I am not totally sure that a K series cannot still be found at a Panerai boutique, but I would move fast and use all my charm.

You will only find a K series in a boutique and I would know what I'm talking about;

Best regards,

George

Still undecided on this one, but I am sure you are correct about where to look.

You've had a long wait and deserve to be rewarded.

Best,

respo

I will keep you posted on whether or not I am ultimately rewarded, but it shouldn't be long now.

Best regards,

George

Respo,

If you are interested in a black Panerai watch, I would highly recommend a Pam 292 Radiomir.

It's my favorite size for a Radiomir(47mm's tend to poke your wrist), it has the classic, clean design of a Panerai, and you can even wear it with suits(it's sporty and elegant at the same time)

On top of that, it's a relative bargain.

Regards,

Palmasea

 

 

It's good to hear this, as I had been also thinking about the 292. I must admit, I also like its relative simplicity, which really hews closely to the original designs.  Thanks again fro thinking of me and suggesting this one.  The decision is not easy.

Best,

respo

I was in the same boat as you and picked up the 317K as my first Panerai. I was probably heavily influenced by the unique opportunity to get one with the PVD movement and believe that at some point it will go up in value (or at least not deteriorate). I may end up being wrong, but it is definitely a unique watch. I am a bit shocked at the low price of the 292s in comparison to the 317 and 335, so will second the notion that it is a great bargain if you like the casing and style. It is hard for me to look at a Panerai without the marquee crown guard.

I think most people will find it hard to justify the price tag on the 317K however since the majority of Panerai wearers I see are wearing $4k models.