The
Perpetual Calendar Prototype to which I dedicated
a thread yesterday made me want to
learn more about the “
Louis Brandt”
Perpetual Calendars.
Louis Brandt (1825-1879) was the founder in 1848 of what became Omega in 1894 under the direction of his sons.
credit: wiki.grail-watch
In 1984, Omega launched a collection dedicated to its founder: the Louis Brandt collection.
This collection was followed by a second generation of timepieces between 1991 and 1997.
It is with the timepieces of this second generation that I propose to begin our exploration of the perpetual calendars in the collection.
I. LOUIS BRANDT II DE LUXE - SECOND GENERATION PERPETUAL CALENDARS (1991 - 1997)
Case: 34 x 11 mm
Caliber 1118
A/ REF. BA 175.0300 1/ BARLEY GRAIN STAMPED DIAL & “LOUIS BRANDT” SIGNATURE AT 6 O'CLOCK 
credit: Stories of Time (1-7), Sam Hewitt on old-omegas.com (8-9) & californiaJewelry&Coin (10-11)
2/ BARLEY GRAIN STAMPED DIAL & “OMEGA” ONLY AT 6 O'CLOCK
credit: uhren-miquel.com
3/ SMOOTH DIAL & APPLIED ROMAN NUMERALS & MARKERS
First regular example
Second example gifted to someone by racing driver Michael Schumacher (born in 1969): “Thank you for your support, Michael” engraved on the caseback
credit: Roy & Sacha Davidoff (1-4) & Christie’s (5-7)
Probably the exact
same reference despite “175.0302” instead of “175.0300”, but this is how the watch is
referenced on
Omega's website.
credit: Omega
C/ OPENWORK SKELETON VARIANTS
Same dimensions
Caliber 1117
1/ REF. 5349.80.83
2/ REF. 5349.80.00
3/ GEM-SET BEZEL MODEL “Louis Brandt, Skeletonized Quantième Perpétuel QS 59”
credit: Ponti (1-5), Breguetcamera (6-8), omegaforums (9) & Antiquorum (10)
II. LOUIS BRANDT I - FIRST GENERATION PERPETUAL CALENDARS (
circa 1984)
Here is how the
Louis Brandt collection was
presented by
Marco Richon in his book
Omega , Biel 2007, p. 494:
“Launched during the World Congress of Omega Agents held at Inter-laken (May 20-24, 1984), this high standing collection was named "Louis Brandt" to equally honour the company founder and Omega's tradition of fine craftsmanship.
Inspired by Fernando Fontana, director of the Italian case manufacturer Lascor in Sesto Calende, the series consists exclusively of handmade complicated mechanical watches.
The scratch-proof sapphire glass back of the watertight cases lets the viewer admire the precious engraved movement and the reflections of light on the polished surfaces.
Two characteristics are shared by the entire collection: the gold winding crown with seven brilliant cut diamonds and the gold buckle of the leather bands with its diamond-adorned prong.”
Case: 34 x 11 mm
Caliber 716
A/ BA 156.769 BZ 01 (dedicated page on
Omega's website)
credit: Watches of Knightsbridge (1-6) & Antiquorum (7-8)
B/ GEM-SET BEZEL - REF. UNKNOWN
credit: Auktionen Dr. Crott
3/ BRACELET MODELS - REF. UNKNOWN
credit: Cambi (1), Bonhams (2), Antiquorum (3) & Christie’s (4-6)
I personally like the 2nd gen examples with a solid barley grain dial very much. And I prefer the variant with “Omega” only at 6 o'clock.
I find the case and lugs, in particular, very nicely designed.
What about you?
Do these watches appeal to you?
Thanks for reading.
Best, Emmanuel
Review of ref. 175.0300 by Tim Mosso