Girard Perregaux

The unveiling of a new case is always an event for a manufacture. It symbolizes the beginning of a collection and represents a new strategic direction. The Traveller case has the aim to fulfills several goals for Girard-Perregaux. With its strong and smooth lines, it has the objective to give a more contemporary style to the brand. At the same time elegant and powerful, it also embodies a more homogeneous approach than other cases that are very classy and classic (Vintage 1945 or 1966) or all-around and casual (Hawk). Finally, it can be considered as more consensual than the Laureato case which faced some difficulties to seduce due to its radical and intriguing design.

When I discovered for the first time the Traveller case, I was surprised by its  well-rounded, curved appearance accentuated by the long  and curved lugs. This roundness  does not mean softness and it is quite the opposite. I can feel the dynamism of the design as evidenced for example by the crown protector which is a kind of extension of the lugs. The case is slender and sleek with a rather high diameter (44mm) / thickness (12.10 mm) ratio. The diameter is certainly impressive and since the bezel is relatively thin, Girard-Perregaux had to carefully  work on the dials designs to contain their own openings within reasonable dimensions. Thus, the Traveller Moon Phases and Large Date, one of the first two watches that take advantage of the new case houses a large and angled flange that reduces the dial opening while maintaining a degree of refinement. As for the other watch, the ww.tc (worldtime and chronograph), the timezones cities ring plays the same role, without obviously the feeling of depth.


Due to the shape of the lugs, the watch is worn with comfort provided you have a large enough wrist. When you meet this condition, the case is well maintained and the watch does not move that is a very good sign. The case is well born but what about the watch which  accompanies it in its first steps? Does it match the promising case style? The name of the new case (and line) evokes the travels, the long distances. I was not surprised to find among the first complications of the Traveller line the world time complication, better than any other display for this purpose because it allows us to travel with our mind by browsing the 24 time zones.

The link is less obvious with a watch that has a large date, a power reserve indicator and a moon phases display. But after all, why not? The Traveller Moon Phases and Large Date  offers an other trip, less usual, a dreamlike move from the Earth towards the Sky embodied by the slow evolution of a majestic moon on a starry sky. We don't have to be wrong: the display of moon phases is the main complication of this watch! The inclined flange gives the impression that we dive into it and the size of the area dedicated to it is the largest on the dial.


Girard-Perregaux has designed with a lot of care the dial. It has a rather unique lay-out with the big date (as always with Girard-Perregaux, perfect in its execution) over the two indicators. The shape of  the power reserve one makes the dial asymmetric and so more attractive. I like the very contemporary hands shapes and applied indexes and logo bring their touch of relief to a dial yet has a strong feeling of volume and depth. I sincerely believe that Girard-Perregaux has managed to create a dial with a more contemporary design while keeping its discretion and elegance principles. I find it particularly well suited to the context of the Traveller case.

The other watch of the collection, the ww.tc:


The Girard-Perregaux fans easily recognized through this Traveller Moon Phases and  Large Date a combination of complications already made in the past collection with the Laureato Evo 3. Not very surprisingly, the movement that animates the watch is the GP3300 caliber that powers the display complications module. The GP3300, which features a 4hz frequency and a power reserve of a minimum of 46 hours is one of my favorite automatic movements. It is both thin and powerful with a good winding efficiency. I was able to enjoy it in other contexts (eg in Genta or independent watches) and it always behaved reliably. However, it is a bit small for the case. Hoepfully, due to the module, this issue is not visible on the dial side which is essential. But it is more noticeable when we turn over the watch even if there is nothing really shocking. The movement itself is finished with care and discretion. I always like this Girard-Perregaux way to decorate them. I'm less impressed by the winding rotor that I find too basic. At the end, I wonder if a solid caseback would not have been the best solution even if the demand from the market has imposed to make visible the movement.


The black dial decreases the perception of size. However, the moon phases are less highlighted:



This negative point does not, however, change the balance  which remains very positive. With this Traveller Moon Phases and Large Date, Girard-Perregaux has developed a watch that gives a good shot of modernity to its collection while keeping the strengths of the  Manufacture. The Traveller line is well-born even if a 44mm case is not the easiest to sell. Now let's hope that future watches will benefit from the case potential. To do this, the size of the movements must also be increased to better fit its diameter.


The Traveller Moon Phases and Large Date is available with a stainless steel case and with silver or black dials.

Pros:
+ The fluid and elegant design of the new case
+ The dial lay-out and its finishings
+ The beauty of the Moon Phases display
+ The efficiency of the GP3300 caliber

Cons:
- The size does not fit all wrists
- The rotor decoration style is not enhancive

Thank to the Girard-Perregaux team for the warm welcome at Baselworld 2013.

I can't wrap my mind around GP's designs.

I always think that they are a sleeping giant, but need some grand vision, something unifying.

For instance, how do these watches draw on any rich GP history or tradition? 

Not so much, in my view.

I do like the new rotor, but that seems not enough.

I WANT to love GP, because they aren't PP, VC, JLC, AP, Lange, the usual suspects...

But why these hands? Why this case?

I could go on.

I hope for great success for GP, but... shrug.