Audemars Piguet

Although much have been discussed before, I still hope to share my humble experience after being blessed with some great opportunities to handle several versions of the jumbo, new and old. It is not a review but just some thoughts on the styling, wearing comfort, etc comparing the different generations and also other more modern models such as the 15300 & 15400. In a nutshell, all ROs are special. Although one may wear slightly differently from another, they are all winners in their own rights.  

5402 - Its 7mm "thick" case with solid case back is the slimmest. The legendary 2121 movement is concealed within the monocoque watch case. Agreed that the GF clasp is very comfortable but the older bracelet design has very limited removable links and it only suits larger wrist size. It didn't fit very well on my 6.75" wrist. The entire watch, while look sporty, does feel a little fragile due to the thin case and very thin bracelet. But it looks extremely good on the wrist. The original dial with the double-stick 12 o'clock marker and the AP logo at 6pm is the most iconic jumbo dial, and the nicest of all. 

Another detail of 5402 which I like is the tapered case back. Look at how the case back tapered from the side of the watch case towards the centre

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14802 (Jubilee) - The first 8mm case with display case back exposing the amazing 2121 movement. The clasp is now single-fold. The plain rectangular shape clasp is very comfortable as there is no protruding edges like the newer AP logo single-fold clasp. For a smaller wrist like mine, I swap the orientation of the clasp to achieve better wearing comfort. The petite tapiserie dial is equally mesmerising as the original 5402. 

15202 (pre-2012) - Same case size as 14802. Major design change in the dial, rotor engraving, and sporting the new AP logo single-fold clasp. With the shorter hour markers, arabic numbering on the outer ring, white box around the date aperture and the grand tapiserie dial, the entire watch looks even more sportier. The 3 dial colours (charcoal, slate-blue and white) offer good choices. The AP logo clasp doesn't wear as comfortable but it sure is elegant. The engraving of the rotor is tasteful.

15202 (2012) - As many have put, it is as close to the original as you can get for the jumbo. We see the return of double-stick 12 o'clock marker and AP@6, as well as the famed petite tapiserie dial. The blue dial has a new shade of blue which is not quite near the original. I still feel the original dial colour is somewhat mysterious and more attractive. The little squares on the dial seem to be spaced a little far apart from each other compared to the original petite tapiserie dial. The font used is also changed. The result is a more modern and technical feel as opposed to the more classical feeling of the original design. The dark-blue date wheel with white numbering is however a welcomed detail which adds to the cohesiveness of the entire dial. The new rotor engraving is nice but feels more "industrial" compared to the previous model. The bracelet has been reworked with thicker size (same size or "flushed" with the lug-end of the watch case... previous model has a bracelet thinner than the lug). The clasp is now an enhanced butterfly clasp. The new bracelet has somehow given this revised jumbo a much bolder presence than the previous models, and it does give a more solid feeling in the hand.  

How about the 15300 and 15400? 

With the in-house 3120 movement, they come with a slightly thicker watch case and thicker bracelet. These add to a more substantial feeling and a bolder wrist presence compared to the jumbos. The modern models also have 60hr power reserve (as compared to the 38hr on the jumbo), quick-set date and second hand, which provide convenience and a sense of interaction assuring the wearer that the watch is ticking! As for 39mm vs 41mm, my take is that there is no real pros and cons here, it only depends on individual preference of size. As a matter of fact, the design of the RO's integrated steel bracelet makes the entire watch wears like a... bracelet. I think any size from 33mm - 44mm would look great on the wrist as long as the watch matches the apparel and style.

A pvd-ed 15300. Not the best example... but it's kinda cool..

15400. The bigger case size wears quite balanced on my 6.75" wrist. The new bracelet allows more room for adjustment too. (The bracelet in the photo has not been adjusted).

Don't ever forget the 36mm 14790.

I have to say that the 36mm size is most suitable for 6" - 6.5" wrist. However, it looks very balanced on my 6.75" wrist too. The overall slim profile and the same petite tapiserie dial like the jumbo make the watch very dressy. People who look for the 36mm RO are certainly spoilt with many dial options, movement types, case/bracelet materials and even complications.

Here's a photo of a 2-tone one that I've handled before.