Jaeger-LeCoultre

📅 Posted: April 12, 2007
✍️ By: Dje

🔍 Summary:
An extensive breakdown of the innovation behind JLC's lubrication-free Cal. 988C movement, high-tech materials like Easium™ carbonitride, and design features including the use of iridium platinum for the balance, magnesium alloy tourbillon cage, and a multi-material case.

The 10th of April 2007 was quite possibly a landmark in watchmaking history ! Are you ready to believe me?

While we were so eager at discovering more about the new Duometre a Chronometre, the real star of the year at Jaeger-LeCoultre was still about appearing.

The last few minutes before light seemed probably like an eternity to the team members who had conceived, developed, constructed, tested, achieved the new Master Compressor Extreme Lab. That's not so often that you see the men and women at MJLC being so nervous, so excited, so exhilarated! The traditional Swiss understatement was gone after two years of intensive development!

Can you imagine what they did together ?

I thought this watch was achieved but I was far from the truth. On this base of calibre 978 the Extreme LAB team developed calibre 988C.

What did they change ?

We know that watches need to be serviced from time to time. Lubrication is not for ever so our little machines have to be cleaned and lubricated again so that they can work flawlessly and stand as perfect chronometers. The absence of liquid lubricants or grease also means that the watch can stand a larger range of temperatures (-40 to +60 celsius).

What about changing all that and getting rid of all these oil and greases! A simple idea, just slightly more complicated to implement. Others have begun to work seriously on that, mainly around the escapement. Jaeger-LeCoultre itself has already replaced the traditionally lubricated automatic winding ball bearings with ceramic ball bearings without lubricant a few years back.

But the real challenge here is to replace ALL this short lived lubrication by real long term solutions. The parts need to be worked so that they don't need added lubricant anymore. The extensive use of high technology materials has allowed this achievement.

The principles of horology have not been changed, but extreme efficiency is again further enhanced.

The first improvement is the use of high tech materials, such as Easium™ carbonitride for making bearings, these bearings receiving the Molybdenum Disulfide (MOS2) coated steel pivots for instance for the balance staff without the need for any jewel.

It may seem to be something you know, but it is not!

The traditional red color of the pallet stones has also disappeared, being replaced by the formal elegance of some black crystalline diamonds, chosen for their efficiency much superior to "real" diamonds. No lubricant overthere anymore either! To some extent I guess that we could say that the "lubricant", if I may still use this word,  is build with and inside each part in itself, kind of "auto-lubrication".

Black crystalline diamond pallet stones

The tourbillon carriage is machined from blocks of a magnesium alloy. It is two and a half times lighter than titanium, helping to decrease losses due to friction.

The main barrel is also freed from any need for grease through the use of graphite powder. Graphite powder helps the bride to slide smoothly inside the drum when the mainspring has been wound beyond maximum power reserve by the automatic winding mechanism.

The silicon escape wheel

Isochronism of the balance spring has been optimized with a Phillips terminal curve and the creation of a "bend" in the center of the spring. This bend is "a distortion of the balance spring at a specific place, close to the collet pinning-point, and which at given moments modifies the rigidity of the spring and corrects the tendency of any spring to breathe in an off-centred manner".

The new balance and balance spring

The balance, no longer a wheel, has been re-designed to decrease the mechanical friction with the air, through reducing the surface of the arms. JLC research has concluded that a large surface of balance decreases its aerodynamic performances and increases the need for energy to maintain the oscillations. The new balance has been built in iridium platinum, the densest non-toxic physical body currently available, thus allowing for keeping the 11.5 mg x cm² inertia with a minimum aerodynamic loss of energy. The design of the balance arm has been carefully worked to decrease the mass/inertia ratio, allowing a more constant rate no matter the position, and consequently a more precise adjustment of the watch.

Adjustment is made using screws placed on the balance, like on all JLC automatic calibres now. Cadence is regulated to 28800 vibrations per hour.

Another view on an unfinished proto

The watch is really a Compressor series design, bringing to a further step the work initiated by Magali Metrailler a few years back. This design is definitely not for everybody, but I find it very consistent with the exceptional technical content and very pleasing to my taste.

Bridges are made of aluminium alloys, the center bridge being made of Ticalium®, aluminium reinforced with particles of titanium carbide. Hardness and resistance are improved by 20% without increasing the density.

The floating dial of the Master Compressor Extreme LAB

The case construction reflects the movement with the association of carbon (central part of case), silicon carbonitride (bezel) and grade 5 titanium (top and back of case). Three patents have been filed for this case: 1°) the original structure with an interior carbon fibre case fitted inside a titanium ring, 2°) the suspension mounting of the movement on a silent block made from a supple red polyurethane material, 3°) the notched adjustment of the strap fastening to ensure a perfect fit around the curve of the wrist.

The case construction in layers, missing here the titanium ring.

This automatic tourbillon watch gets two time zones with an AM/PM pointer indication at noon and a jumping date display.

The Jedi watch

The red touch is the combination of the red supple polyurethane silent block, the red hands, the red eloxed aluminium crown, and the red alcantara inside the leather on cordura canvas strap.

The case construction

The carbon fiber central part of the case

The rotor has been opimized with carbon fiber arms and a lighter and more rigid base. The oscillating weight is made in iridium platinum like the balance. The entire winding/time setting

mechanism is coated with nickel/PTFE to do without liquid lubricant.

The back view

The notched adjustment of the strap fastening

Another proto view on the back with the red silent block around the movement

The traditional wristshot still on my small wrist

So this extraordinary watch is definitely a world premiere, letting us hope for soon to come implementations of its technical advances in the affordable range of watches from Jaeger-LeCoultre. The rotor and balance may be the first subjects of implementation. For the happy few who can't wait but can afford, a small series will be produced and sold to the final customers, a la Ferrari FXX if I may say. If you're about treating yourself with a racing machine, you may want to have a closer look.

On top of a technical success, this watch is a testimony to the Manufacture innovation spirit. The Extreme LAB team be justly and rightfully proud of their first baby, they may just write the first page of the future of Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Dje


 

Hi Jack,

This watch goes far beyond what we've tested so far.

It was extensively tested but obviously nobody can say what life will be.

It is fitted for a very long and prosperous life though.

Dje

Hi Xarope,

You won't do your pan cakes with this one.

It's just PTFE on PTFE. No risk.

A stupendous watch.

Dje

Hi Andrew,

As you know beauty is in the eye of the beholder !!

Be that true or not, I love the design of this watch.

I'm not saying that you're wrong and I'm right, just that I've had the watch on my wrist  :-)

I wish it were still there.

If you happen to see a dismantled Extreme Lab, you'll be stunned by the R&D put in the case construction, the strap….

I love it.

Take care my friend

Dje

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Hi Joram,

And that's for our pleasure.

I suppose that like for many industries, searchers search for ideas, think, imagine, guess and then check by all means…

They don't do different things just for the sake of it.

Cheers

Dje

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Hi Melvyn,

This watch is not for you, go back to your Duometre and let the Lab for me :-)

Yes I like Chopard L.U.C. Tech, RM and the Lab.  Please don't mix them with Zenith Defy Xtreme, BRM and Custos.

There's good watchmaking on one side and good marketing on the other.

Dje

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Hi John,

The watch has no defined service intervals. It is expected to be maintenance free. I don't think it's written anywhere so far (not in the press kit at least).

Time will tell.

Dje