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This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2015-03-31 13:06:18
BaselWorld-Report 2015: The saga continues: 2. part of Magnus’ & Oliver’s quick overview
… another round of appetizers while we are already working on more detailed reports.
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2015-03-29 10:17:47
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2015-03-29 10:17:47
Omega
The main brand within the Swatch Group conglomerate is always a stressful appointment for us: many, many novelties, and very light to shoot ;-)
First and most important, a completely new Globemaster, the new first Master Chronometer (certified by the Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres (COSC) but also approved by the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS)):
Second, a Seamaster Professional Regatta chronograph with titanium case and dial (difficult for Oliver to let loose, with his son – a young sailor – in mind):
Then, another Speedmaster, but with a canine touch, the Speedmaster Appollo 13 Snoopy Award:
For secret agents the special edition Seamaster Aqua Terra James Bond (with a – comparatively – subtle theme dial!):
The Speedmaster Moonwatch Dark Side Of The Moon is a fantastic collection on its own right, here the Vintage Black with ceramic case:
The Globemaster wrist shot . . .
. . . is another nail in my coffin.
I won't say I'm dead set on getting one, at least not yet, but it's highly tempting.
Art, it is, in many way which we shall reveal soon...
not perfect, but well done!
Magnus
Patek Philippe
Much has already been talked about THIS (Ref. 5524G):
But there was more, e.g. this all red gold Nautilus Ref. 5711R (worn on the wrist of a very cooperative young lady ;-)). Note that brown-grey dial – close up and you see why Patek is so coveted!
The Ref .5905P introduced a finely reworked and accentuated case design. The differences are subtle but make a statement!
A statement without further words needed is the Ref. 5370P (split-seconds chronograph), with lots of outstanding details on case and dial (matching in complexity to the movement):
To me, these pics confirm a good year for Patek. [nt]
No message body This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2015-03-29 10:52:16
Mark, they did everything right: the watches, the design - and the marketing! [nt]
No message body
A Good Year??????
I have a hard time saying "a good year for Patek", unless "good year" equals "commercial year". To me a good year requires technical innovation, new movements, something that advances the watchmaking art. Those are things to celebrate.
There were no new movements, no technical innovations, nothing that advanced the watchmaking art at Patek this year. Zero. Nada.
There were attractive dials.
Contrast what Breguet did. They developed a very original approach to chronograph construction...with a new movement. And they introduced a brand new tourbillon minute repeater that abounds with both historical links and modernity. Does that not "count" more than new dials poised above pre-existing movements?
This is not to say that PP's introductions this year were poorly done. The dials were beautiful, particularly on the split second chrono. Nor do I suggest that these will be unsuccessful. I merely suggest a different standard for what constitutes a "good year".
Jeff
Compared to previous years, this is to me a good year.
It is nonsense to me to expect to have new movements nearly every year, even if I'd like something new on the side of the manual 215. The design and tests of a new movement is a huge work and needs several years of investment in time and money.
But we had a major chrono novelty with the 29-535.
We had a major slim micro-rotor novelty with the 31-260 (5235).
They are building their new facilities (in order to deal with their SAV issues), they had their 175th Anniversary year to care about, the developement of the Grandmaster Chime (whether we like it or not it is a great achievement and was unveiled several years ago) etc...
So JK, still on the dial only matter?
And concerning brands in general, I don't react to one-shot-novelties unveiled to show off for marketting purposes (like Tag Heuer did with very their nice but marketting only Mikrogirders etc...) but to the overall collection of a brand and what it brings to the watchmaking world over several years.
There are years of evelopement and years of consolidation.
And I fully disagree concerning the opinion we have on Breguet's place in watchmaking today (and the Swatch Group policy that stands behind) and the Frederic Piguet movements (now called Blancpain) which technical aspects and especially finishing standards are not comparable (to me) to what Patek has shown over the last decades (and people know here that I don't hesitate to critisize Patek on various matters when feel like it).
If you want for instance to compare Breguet MR to Patek's, then remember last year's 5078R and all the MRs they unveiled over the last decades, when Breguet was not that active...
It is easy to compare over a one year period. That's what brands want for their communication and from your answer it seems to work
Indeed we don't seem to have the same standards.
Mark
But we had a major chrono novelty with the 29-535.
We had a major slim micro-rotor novelty with the 31-260 (5235).
They are building their new facilities (in order to deal with their SAV issues), they had their 175th Anniversary year to care about, the developement of the Grandmaster Chime (whether we like it or not it is a great achievement and was unveiled several years ago) etc...
So JK, still on the dial only matter?
And concerning brands in general, I don't react to one-shot-novelties unveiled to show off for marketting purposes (like Tag Heuer did with very their nice but marketting only Mikrogirders etc...) but to the overall collection of a brand and what it brings to the watchmaking world over several years.
There are years of evelopement and years of consolidation.
And I fully disagree concerning the opinion we have on Breguet's place in watchmaking today (and the Swatch Group policy that stands behind) and the Frederic Piguet movements (now called Blancpain) which technical aspects and especially finishing standards are not comparable (to me) to what Patek has shown over the last decades (and people know here that I don't hesitate to critisize Patek on various matters when feel like it).
If you want for instance to compare Breguet MR to Patek's, then remember last year's 5078R and all the MRs they unveiled over the last decades, when Breguet was not that active...
It is easy to compare over a one year period. That's what brands want for their communication and from your answer it seems to work
Indeed we don't seem to have the same standards.
Mark
One swallow does not a summer make...
Dear Mark, I appreciate your thoughts on the long term development and contribution of a brand, both for itself as for watchmaking in general. This is why, Rolex, Omega and Patek enjoy the appreciation and status they have today, and this is why other brands struggle and/or have to invest huge amounts of money and energy into marketing efforts.
It also explains why those brands are so defensive in claiming the first, the fastest, the most complicated, the best xxx (fill in ad libitum).
It does not come with surpass to me that Patek got all the buzz around Ref. 5524G - for free, and deservedly so. Not because the watch is such an outstanding piece, but because they developed their brand with such care and respect to both watchmaking and their own tradition that such a watch instantly turned into a talking piece. The talking piece of Basel.
As Oliver wrote: other brands would have killed to get such exposure. Patek gets it for free.
And this also - by extension - implies that watch aficionados have a very precise idea about the essence of Patek. There is substance people understand and care about. This is the result of what I stated above, and this is the reason why I think that Patek absolutely deserved the attention they got.
Yes, Mark, I think this is a good year for Patek. Not great, but good.
But we also should appreciate what Breguet presented this year. Forget about the Marine, that's a business case. But the Tradition is an essential Breguet. as is the Reine de Naples The former collection is now 10 years old, and very close to its original version.
The additions this year show something like a direction Breguet is going to, offering really indigenous complications (or better: proprietary interpretations of such). True, the brand is still very much rooted in its past, and certainly does not have the forward-looking attitude of cutting edge watchmaking Abraham-Luois Breguet had.
But the Tradition shows that the brand follows a line over a decade with integrity, which is always a good start and essential for long term relevance. I liked a lot what they offered this year, and certainly look forward to seeing more.
Cheers, and again thanks for your thoughts.
Magnus
Words of wisdom Magnus
I also think that the Tradition line holds a special place in watchmaking and is very different from the rest of Breguet's offer.
Breguet is the name many of the complications we know today come from.
Even if I think a part of the collection is not true anymore to this legacy, the tradition certainly is. And the way the new Repetition Minute is designed (if it works well) is another example.
I just wanted to put things in perspective especially when I felt it was "needed".
Thanks for sharing your accurate thoughts on that matter Magnus.
Cheers, Mark
Breguet is the name many of the complications we know today come from.
Even if I think a part of the collection is not true anymore to this legacy, the tradition certainly is. And the way the new Repetition Minute is designed (if it works well) is another example.
I just wanted to put things in perspective especially when I felt it was "needed".
Thanks for sharing your accurate thoughts on that matter Magnus.
Cheers, Mark
Gentleman, I read quite a few valid points ...
and thought it could be an interesting discussion together with Jeff. Well, once more he just joined the party with one statement, which could be biased as he is in charge for the Breguet magazine. A dislike for the "silence", Jeff. I just like passionate (and controversial) discussions about watches (and finer things in life), as you know
Anyway, thanks a lot for sharing your opinions!
Oliver
Anyway, thanks a lot for sharing your opinions!
Oliver
Some people just can't keep being objective
and hence lose their credibility
This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2015-04-04 13:29:32
This message has been edited by Mark in Paris on 2015-04-04 13:29:32
Romain Gauthier
Here we were taught who different finishing’s, all at the same highest level, could turn an already excellent watch into a different entity. We were quite surprised how well that worked!
Logical One in two very different iterations. A two-piece only collection for the connoisseur to cover all he asks for in 24 hours/7days … Just a thought ?
Tudor
One of the greatest surprises for us – Rolex’ small sister becomes independent with its first in-house movement, Caliber MT5621 (“MT” for “Manufacture Tudor”):
Very interesting details we will discuss later… But one thing already now: Complete independence – even from Rolex and their manufactory capabilities!
The movement comes in the brand new North Flag watch (a tool watch inside and outside, something that was thoroughly missed!) …
… as well as in a (very slightly) redesigned Pelagos dive watch:
Urwerk
The small Zurich/Geneva brand presented iterations, such as a metal bracelet for the UR-210…
… and a wrist holding frame for the UR-1001 “TITAN” pocket watch:
Zenith
For the brand’s 150th anniversary this year nothing could be better suited than a new movement – and here it is: the Zenith Elite 6150 (‘6’ for Elite, ‘150’ for the anniversary): 100h power reserve, stored in two barrels:
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2015-03-29 09:19:14
Not only that, Zenith presented it in a new collection as well, called Elite 6150 – hum? Same name…?
Available also with the El Primero chronograph movement:
Definitely a collection that has a lot of haptic excellence as well!
Much more modern are these two, both in 45mm: The Chronomaster Sport (now with 200m water resistance)…
… and the new Chronomaster NightVision. This one comes with a case made of aluminium-transformed-into-ceramic:
This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2015-03-29 09:19:14