Horological Meandering

Last week a 5 minute presentation caught my attention on a television shopping channel.  It was from a brand that I've never heard of and the spokesman, while pleasant, was overembellishing some claims.  Constantin Weisz is similar to many television brands.  If you are a WIS, you will instaneously recognize its watch designs are from more prestigious companies. A few years ago I would have flipped right past this channel however with the ever increasing popularity of wristwatches I've learned to understand why companies like CW exist.  I am happy that our "hobby" is more accessible.

The model being showcased was Constantin Weisz's convertible pocket watch.  This is eerily similar IMHO to Chopard's LUC Tribute Pocketwatch in look and function except for the price tag.  For less than a Ben Franklin bill (a "today only" special price with shipping included) I thought it would make an interesting review.  A quick phone call and 96 hours later, here it is.

The packaging is simple: plastic wrap over a thin cardboard outer box.

 

Inside the watch is shipped in a faux leather two watch carrying case, a very common sense approach.

 

Paperwork to document and celebrate the purchase is included.  2 year standard warranty...better than most Swiss brands.  After market service for Constantin Weisz is provided here in the USA. 

 

 Deciphering  the warranty card shows that the reference number is 10J055CW (this is also found on the case back).  So my watch number is 10385..Really CW made this many for distribution?

"Designed in Germany, Made in China".  Well at least CW is somewhat honest

 

I have to say that the overall presentation is more than adequate to satisfy the average WIS.

 I purchased the rose gold plated version.  The watch has a diameter of 45mm and a thickness of 16mm.

The crystal is mineral and has no antireflective coating.

The dial is white and has a very simple layout with a small seconds subdial at 6 oclock.  Roman numerals and a small railroad track to denote minutes around the periphery of the dial.  The printing on the dial is sharp and there is no lume on the dial.

The crown and bow is at 12 o clock .  The CW logo is printed on the crown and the bow is utilized as a secondary safety mechanism since a piece of leather wraps around and buckles it to the strap.  Unfortunately it is extremely difficult to wind and set the watch due to the thickness of the leather strap, the design of the lugs, and the thin crown.  You have to remove the watch from its "cradle" in order to do this.

Flip the watch over you will notice the central screw which secures the case of the watch to the cradle.  Turn this screw counter clockwise and the watch releases.  Sadly, the slot is thinner than standard screwdrivers...I was able to use a case back opening tool as a substitute.

Once released, this is what the two pieces look like.  An inexpensive but simple and effective engineered solution.

 

Six small screws attach the solid case back.  Opening this reveals the Seagull TY 3600 mechanical movement sitting in a thin plastic holder. When can decorative geneve stripes be ugly?  When they are machined!  On the CW website the company claims that all watches are adjusted for accuracy over a 24 hour period. 

There is also a small rubber O-ring which provides 30m of water resistance.

Attach the rose plated chain to the bow and voila, a nice pocketwatch.

Compare this to the Chopard.  Without a doubt 45,000 USD will buy a lot more horological substance.

 

 

Some on-the-wrist photos with the Constantin Weisz.

 

The concept of securing a pocketwatch to a wrist strap is the genesis of all wristwatches.  This history cannot be patented by Cartier, Chopard, or any other watch company.  And eventhough Constatin Weisz is based out of Cologne, Germany I suspect many enthusiasts would still call this watch a cheap Chinese knockoff...but is it?

My inspection reveals a well manufactured instrument and I am wholly satisfied by the efficiency of Chinese know-how.  Quite honestly I have more problems with the German design aspect of the watch (the inoperability of the crown and the thin screw slot) than the initial build quality that I've observed.  I guess long term ownership will either confirm or refute these first impressions.

Despite the low cost, I am sure that there was still a slim profit margin involved for both Constatin Weisz and the TV channel.  Which begs the question why couldn't the Chinese manufacture go global on its own without a German design company?  Do Chinese companies still think that they can not be successful independently or would they just rather stay in the shadows and make pennies on the dollar?  When I look at 95% of the watches being sold, I see no new innovation.  The Seagull TY 3600 is the Chinese "copy" of the Unitas 6497 which itself  has not changed since the 1950s.   Do I dare say the majority of the new Swiss horological know-how over the past decade involve new marketing techniques not technical advances? 

Granted this Constantin Weis convertible pocketwatch is not a piece of haute horology but the Chinese are getting really good at making watches fast. With the ever increasing popularity of wristwatches I suspect a daring Chinese brand will start innovating soon and capitalize on the manufacturing skill recently acquired within the country. No more watches with a mish mash of features "borrowed" from Swiss brands and gone will be the days of cheap knockoffs which breakdown in a week.  Combined with the ability to tele-market both in traditional media and online, we may finally see a mainstream and well respected Chinese manufacture flurish.

Thoughts?

 Enjoy,

Mike

Author's FTC Disclosure:  This watch was purchased directly from an authorized retailer.  I am the original owner.   I did not and will not receive any direct compensation nor special considerations from either the retailer or Constatin Weisz for this review. 

First of all congrats for the great and comprehensive review.

This is another proof that when chinese brands want to propose a decent product, they can do it.

But it is also another proof: their ability to take advantage of any favourable context. Of course this kind of watch was not invented by Chopard but well they recently put it back under the spotlights... the watch you present is very close to the spirit of the Chopard. We could imagine such pocket-wrist watch with another dial design or something more original. But not: it is very close to the Chopard... almost a tribute, you know...

Anyway, thanks the review and the questions you raise.

Fx

outsourcing to a Chinese Manufacture which is worse imho.

"designed in Germany, made in China"

I'm hoping for "designed in China, made in China" soon.

Cheers, Mike

 

I've seen them on that Shopping Channel, some of their models are Ok, although I'm not a big fan of the chinese movements that one is nicely done Its a copy of the swiss unitas 6497. They had a TTV aka Todays Top Value a couple weeks ago, that they said had nos mechanical alarm movements made by some German company. Surprisingly it had a good sound.

gaps being formed.

The high end  watches got really high end...astronomically high end.

The middle moved higher too ( i.e Concord, ML, Baume and Mecier...)

The lower end got really diversified. As a result competition drove prices down. I like the fact that enthusiasts can purchase decent mechanical timepieces without breaking the bank. 

Problem:  It is very easy to buy a lot of these watches for a hundred or two hundred a pop.  Each purchase is not very painful.  But soon you'll have a large watchbox full of entry level pieces and in the end you may regret the fact that you could have purchased a grail if you had more restraint.

 

Best, Mike

When I got into watch collecting I would buy based on looks and not price although looks do play a role. But now when I buy a watch, I take my time.

horological substance...I will say this probably even if you combine 200+ of these "television" brand watches.

The problem with cheap complex mechnical machines is that they are cheap.  Unless Chinese manufactures can prove that they can reproduce these machines efficiently and reliably, I'll pass based on personal experience.

Best, Mike

I'm referring to your last few paragraphs about Chinese production.  Great question.  Unfortunately I'm unable to provide an answer.   This message has been edited by patrick_y on 2012-10-14 15:44:58

devulge some pictures.

Best, Mike

No message body

Granted that the CW's movement quality is ordinarily machine-made, it still does not take away the credit that it deserves for certain parts, especially the case and its locking mechanism.

I don't know whether Chopard should cry or laugh or otherwise.  Someone out there loves there Tribute so much and manage to produce one with a fraction of their price tag.

Mike, there is only one issue that I disagree with you. Personally, I think this watch to some extent can be considered as haute horology.  Didn't we see many other big brands use similar movement?

Thanks for the interesting post, Mike.

 

Regards

Ling

 

I think Chopard's Tribute watch is worth every penny that the company is asking for it...

Anyone can see the huge difference between the two.  The Chopard's case is of precious metal, the locking mechanism is more complex, and obviously the movement required a lot more work.  More importantly the premium in the price is used to support the development of the new caliber which will be put to good use by all the new watchmaking students.  I think that in itself is a worthy cause.

I guess the 450X difference depends on the eye of the beholder.

It is the otherway around in my humble opinion...the brands who use similar movements and classify the pieces as haute horology should be ashamed. 

Micromechanics and engineering principles are the same around the world...I hope to see real Chinese Haute Horology soon. 

Best, Mike

 

 

...that given time and a visionary businessman/watch enthusiast as a backer, the Chinese have every ability to create nice watches.  Thanks for the review. 

Cheers,
Daos

.

I do like bargain basement watches.
There are a huge number of brands out there based in HK and the US that make homages to other great brands, but use good quality eta/unitas movements.
I like a lot of them, but there is a thin line for of a purist of whether the watch you buy is a homage or a copy. Is either one appropriate in the world of the purist or are they perfectly acceptable for what they are, watches that look like big brand items, but at a fraction of the price.

A difficult dilemma.

G