Happy new year to everyone.
Before the end of the year, I was lucky enough to rediscover a piece that I've always been attracted to, even though it surprisingly (to me) elicits "eh, not bad..." from those around me whom I'm stupid enough to ask.
I've been mulling over a more detailed photo essay on this piece - about its moonphase; about the (to me) successful mash up of the Royal Oak and Nautilus aesthetics; about how easy it is to wear, especially it's lack of sharp or hard edges or corners (I just came off many months of the great Bulgari P10 piece, which practically speaking is almost the ideal watch, but it has many sharp or hard edges...that are unkind to cuffs, finger tips, etc); the easy to read and beautifully done big date; the very successful AR coating that seems to make the domed crystal disappear; the ever romantic (and yes, dare I say it? USEFUL) power reserve indicator...unjustly underappreciated, in my humble opinion...
Because it has been worn for periods of a few weeks, then put away for months and even years, I haven't obssessed about the fact that it is fast 15-25 seconds a day, crown up or crown down; better fast than slow, right?
And really, besides a general approximation of the current time, for this particular piece, the moonphas and RDM indicators are more important to me...
So today, I went out for a ride in the rare morning mists and low cloud covers of Southern California ...
When I got back, it was 45 minutes slow...
Hmmmm...
(for the techno-geeks among you, though the engine is a big 500 cc four stroke engine, the vibrations and noise are fairly minimal, it has a CVT transmission that is fairly smooth, and the suspension is, again, fairly soft and smooth.)
Cheers,
TM
Time stops, when you're in love...
That is a well known phenomenon, with GP watches.
Hmmmm...
I am generally not keen on moonphases except on Perpetual Calendars for a reason: I am tired of trying to set the correct moonphase each time I decide to wear the watch, after some says, weeks or months in the safe.
And not very crazy about the power reserve, which ruins a bit the dial, and which has no real justification, in my opinion, except if the power reserve is short ( 36 hours... It will remind you that you have to wind your watch everyday, and if you forgot, this is a good reminder before your watch stops ) or long ( 7 days: same reason than previously mentionned on short power reserve watches ).
But I must admit that on this one, which I also saw with a white dial, the outcome; aesthetically speaking, is far from being unpleasant.
Best, Thomas, and have a much better year.
Nicolas
This message has been edited by amanico on 2012-01-02 23:02:04What is the top speed of that three wheels cool road runner? I am sure it is faster than Mr. Bean's three wheels car.
That GP looks clean and the case looks very well executed.
Have a great and healthy Dragon Year.
Regards
Ling

Just like a 900 pound door that moves with a finger because it is hinged just right, with well machined and well lubricated hardware...
So, Mr. Engineer, how high is too high and how low is too low?
I'm not an engineer; I just know that a bike with a lower CoG feels "lighter" and easier to change lean angles.
Oh, wait, is that like two cars with the same laden weight, but with the engine / battery / lead weights hanging outside the axles, versus weight inside the axles? And esoteric concepts like polar moments of inertia...?
hmmmm...so ceteris paribus, do carbon fiber roofs make a difference or not?
;-)
..the aim is to get the CoG as low as possible. You do what you can to reduce weight transfer, to get the most benefit from all four tyres. Low CoG is the starting point.
On a bike weight transfers are *massive*, the CoG is inherently high and can move about, so it's all about controlling it. The CoG has to be in the right place. The 'right place' depends on the bike - its purpose, its size, its mass, available grip...
Without writing an essay on bike dynamics (which allows me to neglect Moments of Inertia, steering geometry, spring rates and damping, tyre widths, chain to rear pivot location) CoG effects can be summarised as
Longitudinally,
A low CoG will reduce the weight transfer onto the front wheel under brakes, with a tendency to push the front tyre. (think of cruisers)
A low CoG will reduce weight transfer onto the rear wheel under acceleration (look at drag bikes)
A high CoG will have more weight transfer, with a tendency to want to lift the rear wheel under brakes
A high CoG will have more weight transfer under acceleration, wheelie time (think how easy it is to pop the front up on a dirtbike)
Transversely,
a higher CoG means less lean angle for a given speed and radius of turn (sounds wrong, but isn't)
Of course, the CoG on a bike is heavily influenced by rider positioning - a big mass sited a few feet above the ground - which is why you see riders clambouring all over bikes, this is to get the weight where you need it. Back wheel lifting under brakes? move back in the seat to get more weight over the rear. Front wheel not turning in? Hunch over the handlebars to get some weight on the tyre.
The above can be summed up as: ratio of height of CoG v Wheelbase. Long and low, stable. High and short, twitchy.
This isn't just from theory, ride a Harley
Next up, does a light bike go around a corner faster than a heavy one?
that's the sort of detail I was hoping for.
In thinking further about the issue(s) I think nimbleness might be a misleading term; yes, one can feel a difference in the shifting of weight from left to right, right to left, between a higher COG and a lower one (engine weight up high versus engine weight down low, even by inches) but the main impact, especially for a newbie rider, is balance - the "point of no return" where a normal human can keep the bike (relatively) upright is earlier / narrower with the COG higher, versus when it is lower.
This is of course manifest in how a bike handles on the road dynamically, but there I'm sure it is much more complex and the differences are more difficult to describe or even identify by a newbie.
The image you describe - an experienced rider clamboring all over the bike - is a particularly vivid one, and really underscores the much more intimate experience a "rider" has compared to a "driver" along with things like smells, the flow of air, temperatures, etc.
An altogether refreshing and wholly enjoyable experience!
Cheers,
TM
...like getting caught behind a row of livestock trucks on a blazing hot day on some winding country road?
One of the few times I'd much prefer to be cocooned in a car with the recirc. button ON.
You're pretty much bang on with the balance point, particularly at a crawl... BUT
the mountains in Switerland are great for that, maybe next time we can make a nice combo...Hi, Marcus,
There's actually nothing so weird about the basic normal condition timing - it probably needs a service to clean and regulate; it's been several years.
The loss of time during the ride is hypothesized well by the sub-threads below.
I too wish I could switch to a strap on occasion...who knows?
Cheers,
TM
Unfortunately, it looks like no such luck; some pretty serious carry over issues from 2011...(actually goes back quite a few years... :-( )
Cheers, Jed, all the best to you and your family.
TM
...anything in the watch could be affected. One culprit could be the escape lever getting excited and mislocking. Or the mainspring could get all buzzy and not paying out properly...
Which brings us to:
Vibrations at the handlebars:
The main source of vibration through handlebars is the engine, so on the MP3, the first mode of vibration will be between say 25Hz (idle) and 120Hz (approx max rpm). Of course, over this you have other vibration inputs (suspension, road/tyre) and various areas of damping (the whole engine-frame-steeringhead-handlebars set up, through the gloves/handlebar, then to the wrist/watch bracelet), so the vibration profile is going to be pretty complex.
Regardless, the range is wide, so it isn't unfeasible that the watch stopped due to some resonance (or it could be that Thomas just forgot to wind it (RdM or not) and the ride started it up
)
From my experience with mechanical watches and bikes (thousands of hours of exposure), I've never noticed a problem...definitely nothing of this magnitude.
I think your suggestion of wearing another watch for comparison is an excellent one.
Hi,
I've worn other timepieces while riding the MP3, no noticeable problems.
And as noted elsewhere in this thread, once OFF the MP3, no issues with that GP Laureato Evo either.
So something about the MP3 and that GP.
Cheers,
TM
cheers
PAt