Horological Meandering

Evening folks!

Hope you all are having a fantastic monday!

Just a little help i need from you guys.

I am planning to expand my watch collection onto a theme that is "Made in Germany".

Now, of course you all could immediatly name the biggies, such as Lange, Glashutte Original, Nomos and such, but i'm thinking more of brands that is not so well known.

Preferably, i would like to be recommend brands that have movements that are in house, although I know this is rare because even guys like Lang & Heyne and Dornbluth uses ETA ebauches, even if they actually manage to modify their pieces to over 90% in house.

Recently, I have come to know of the brand "Wakmann", which is quite interesting from the little bits i have seen on their webpage. Do any of you happen to have past experience with this brand?

I would like to hear of any and every suggestion you fellows might have.

But just to make life a little easier by narrowing down the choices, could you all take into consideration that the watch needs to meet the following criteria?

1). Hand wound ONLY

2). Case diameter equal to or above 40mm

Now, i'm sure alot of you are aware that while i primarily purchase only watches encased in Platinum, right now i'm mainly looking for anything that is Made in Germany, which I am aware alot are just the standard SS, but as long as it is Made in Germany, will be fine for me.

Thanks guys, any comments and opinions are much appreciated! I just want to know more and learn more from you fellows!

Danke & tschuss!

Stephen

they use german cases and do all the work in Germany, but as the pieces are one off unique pieces the vintage movements are nearly always Swiss and handwound.

best

Graham

Thank you Graham for the introduction to this brand of which I have never heard of before!

Danke!

Stephen

Junghans is a company whose product range runs from cheap quartz to solar-powered and radio-controlled watches to midprice mechanicals.  They have recently launched an upmarket range called "Eduard Junghans" using movements that are (so it is claimed) developed entirely in-house:

click here

 

Then there is Wempe: they use movements sourced from Nomos and upgrade them to chronometer certfication:

click here

 

Of course there is always the esteemed Herr Vyskocil....

 

Regards,

Alex

 

 

 

 

For the choices!

Junghans looks and sounds interesting, the tonneu case is visually interesting, although I can see that the movement is a circular one fitted.

When i was in Germany this past September, I handled the Wempe chronometers on several occasions, wish to get one on my next trip hopefully.

And as for Herr Vyskocil, oh how i wish he would accept my order!

Tschuss

Stephen

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i bumped onto that website last week and I couldn't make much sense of it.

there's ofcourse the historical Breitling connection and even Benno Richter seems to have something to do with it. The models though are very uninspiring.

But i am highly interested in the carbon fiber watch! Don't you think that is one nice piece?

Cheers

Stephen

how it'll turn out. It looks very comfortable

Indeed, it's appearing to be quite tempting!

Cheers

Stephen

Hi Stephen,

From the watches I've seen and the discussions I've followed, Wakmann appears to be a very recent re-emergence of a historical nameplate purchased by some entrepreneurs.  They must have some access to NOS pocketwatch movements, as they offer a number of them cased up in fairly standard-looking shells with dials of varying levels of aesthetic and technical quality.  They also have tapped into the recent interest in Unitas 6497/8 WWII pilot's watches.

Although the movements in some instances are stunning, I frankly don't think much of this iteration of the brand.  Not only are the sizes (due to the PW movements) a little out of hand, but there is no design coherence or brand identity.  A vacuum at the center, if you will.  Unless a particular movement really floats your boat, I think I'd pass on this one.

Regarding a Made in Germany theme, I can only recommend what I own: Dornblüth watches are worth looking at.  The "in-house movement" issue has more facets than the Hope Diamond, but I personally wouldn't weight the ETA ebauche origin of Dornblüth's movements too heavily: after Dirk gets done with it, not much remains.  The distance between his work and even the top quality Unitas product from Soprod, for example, is quite large.

More generally, consider this: isn't  the balance assembly somehow the heart of the watch? And how many "in-house" manufacturers feature a glucydur balance and a Nivarox-1 hairspring?  And where did these come from? 

best of luck with the search, this is often the most fun part!

-Tom

...forgot to mention, Stephen, that Dornbluth has made a limited edition in Pt.  Plus now there is an in-house engraved silver dial, and a fired-enamel dial as part of the lineup.  Ah, the possibilities!

-Tom

Hey there Tom!

Thank you for the comments and opinions regarding this issue.

I completely agree with you regarding the primary collection of Wakmann, in how they are often uninspired, but at the same time find it intriging that they can manage to acquire NOS from such famous manufactures. This has to be seen in the metal to be judged, but nonetheless is something spectacular maybe.

I have not really considered a Dornbluth much , except once for the Gorch Fock LE piece, but decided to let go on that one due to various issues.

At the currently moment, the piece I am highly interested in is the Centersecond piece.

Thanks for the insight into the brand which really as you say, has more facets than the Hope Diamond, lol i like the way you phrase it!

By the way, which piece are you referring to that Dornbluth has executed in Platinum as an LE? The last time i was in contact with him i understood that if i wanted he could make a special order of any of his models in Pt, but you seem to be referring to something else.

Thanks Tom, and be hearing from you soon!

With best regards,

Stephen

Stephen -

There was a limited edition in 2004 or thereabouts:

Reference Cal. 99.2 (40) 950 PT, a limited series of 50 pieces worldwide.  Same 99.2 movement as in standard model, with Platinum (950) case, matte finish Montego-Blue dial and pear shaped white hands.  Black hand-stiched Louisiana Alligator strap with signed Platinum (950) tang buckle.

The montego blue dial, while not listed in the catalog, is still available upon request for many of the models, as is the Pt case (as you found).

regards, Tom

Once again, thank you for the details!

Tschuss

Stephen

I am currently in a project where Thorsten from Wakmann is creating a limited Edition (because there are only around 35 movements available) Flieger watch from a NOS PW movement, extensively refinished, for a German watch forum. Throughout that process he has been incredibly responsive and competent. While I have yet to see the final product (supposedly late this year) I think this would be a person to look at if you want to implement a personal idea.

 

Best

Andreas

It's the 47mm B uhren, am i correct?

I am wishing to pull on this one too!

I will let you all know when it is done!

Cheers

Stephen

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 I believe there is an independent by the name of A.Mantei that is from germany,his web site is in german so I'm taking an educated quess.He takes custom orders and makes a few watches each year.Maybe this will help you add to your collection,cheerz

Mantei is more of a designer than a watchmaker, by the looks of it.  At least his website clearly states the movement type (not all brands are so open).

Alex

 

 

Das ist rechtig!

Tschuss

Stephen

according to his web site.Has for being more of a designer that opinion is pretty important ,After all we do buy what others design ,Hes been a master watchmaker since 1977 so he has some time invested in this craft.Aside from movement it appears he creates the rest of his pieces himself either by machine or hand.

I also noticed that he makes custom order clocks.You send him your ideas and he makes it for you,interesting concept.  

For the recommendation!

I just took a look at his webpage, but it seems that he houses only automatics, and i did mention in my main thread post that I dont do automatics!

Nonetheless, thank you for introducing me to yet another unknown German manufacturer!

Vielen Danke!

Stephen

    I have been to his site a few times and though he made custom order watches.It is custom order clocks he makes.Oh well,if anything you got to see and learn about a brand that is new to you and German also, that is why i am here,to learn.

    Cheers,Joseph 

That's why we are all here, to learn and to share our knowledge, even if it includes mistakes!

Thank you for your input, much appreciated!

Cheers

Stephen

... for help in such topics

Karim

That is an honour too great for me to accept!

But well, when the time comes, i will gladly assist you in anyways that I can!

Cheers

Stephen

I have several Wakmann timepieces.
This is the only one I can find a photo of at the moment; not exactly a watch but an aircraft clock. Says Swiss on it though...

HERE's an exhaustive list pilfered from another blog:

===============================

Lange & Soehne – founder Ferdinand Adolph Lange’s name
Alexander Shorokhoff
Almanus
Alpha Time
Archimede
Arctos
Aristo Vollmer
Ars eTempus
Askania Uhren
Bagger & Gehring
Bethge
Blancier Lotterman & Söhne
Botta
Braun
Brior
Bruno Soehnle
Bunz
Chronosport now Guinand
Chronoswiss – founder Gerd-Rudiger Lang; Munich-based company
Churpfälzische UhrenManufactur
Damasko
D. Dornblueth & Sohn
Egon Hummel
Erhard Junghans
Erwin Sattler
Forum
Fricker
Garde
George J Von Burg
Germano
Glashuette Original – from watch city Glashutte
Graf Zeppelin
Guinand
Hacher
Haldi
Hanhart – founder Willy Hanhart
Heinrich Geisen
Hentschel
Holdermann & Sohn
Jacques Etoile – from names of owner Klaus Jakob’s last name and wife Yildiz Jakob
JB-Gioacchino
Jochen Benzinger
John Harrison
Jorg Schauer – founder Jorg Schauer’s name
Jubilar
Junghans
Junkers
Kadloo
Kronsegler
Kurth
Laco
Lang & Heyne
Leumas
Limes – Brand fabricated by the German Ickler family
Lindburgh & Benson
Marcello C.
Martin Braun - German watchmaker Martin Braun’s name
Maximilian
Mechanische Zeitinstrumente
Meer
Meistersinger – founder Manfred Brassler
MM uhren
Montano
Montblanc – derived from the swiss/French mountain Mont Blanc
MSC uhren
Muehle Glashuette
Muhle –  founder Robert Muhle
Nauticfish
N.B Yäeger
Niessing
Thomas Ninchritz
NBY – No Barriers Yaeger, by Martin Braun
Nimbus
Nivrel – registered Swiss name acquired by German Gerd Hofer
Nomos Glashütte –  an historical Glashutte watch company "name" bought by Roland Schwertner
Otium
Otto Berger
Otto Schlund
Philippe Rosen
Porsche Design – founder of the licensing brand, Ferdinand A. Porsche
Rainer Brand – founder's name
Rainer Nienaber
Rheinmeister
Riedenschild
Sainbach
Scalfaro e
Schauble & Soehne
Schaumburg
Schempp
Schmeltzer 1881
Schneider Manufaktur
Sinn – founder Helmut Sinn’s last name
Sothis – founder Wolfgang Steinkruger
Steinhart
Stowa – founder Walther Storz
Temption – founder Klaus Ulbrich
Thiel-Ruhla
Tourby Watches Hagen
Tutima – founder Dr.Ernst Kurtz
Union Glashuette
UTS
Volker Vyskocil
Vollmer – founder's name
Wempe
Zeppelin Uhren

.... especially the ubiquitous ETA 2824, and - in better examples - 2892. Most of them, especially the cheaper ones, acquire cases and/or dials, hands etc. in Asia.

The currently "most German" watches produced in larger series are made by Glashütte Original.

Regards,
Marcus