Horological Meandering

We don't often talk about Stowa here on the forum, but in my opinion their watches make wonderful everyday wear and serve as a solid gateway for those looking to ease into the world of mechanical watches without making a large monetary commitment.  At least, this was how I did it, as the Stowa Marine Original was one of the first watches I bought.  I acquired mine second-hand, and it proved reliable and accurate during months of continuous wear.

A discussion about the Marine Original should include some information about Stowa and its current owner and designer, Jörg Schauer.  My understanding of the Stowa story, based on Stowa's own website and what I can glean from my online reading, is that the company was started in Germany in 1927 by Walter Storz, and by 1935 was based in Pforzheim, Germany (the company is now largely housed at a factory in Engelsbrand, Germany, which also includes a Stowa museum).  Jörg Schauer purchased Stowa from the Storz family in 1996.  Based on the current collection of watches, Schauer demonstrates an affinity for the Stowa designs of yesteryear, while simultaneously using today's modern methods and components in fabrication and in marketing -- Stowa sells its watches directly to the public via the Internet, and Schauer seems to regularly participate in an online forum dedicated to his work with Stowa and his other eponymous line, Schauer.

For me, it was Stowa's clean, unfussy, "modern vintage" aesthetic that first caught my eye.  The model that I was originally interested in was a fairly faithful reissue of the Stowa “Beobachtungs-uhr" (B-uhr) pilot's watch.  Stowa, along with A. Lange & Söhne, International Watch Company (IWC), Laco, and Wempe were the original companies commissioned by the German government to create pilot watches for their airforce during WWII. 




Stowa flieger (pilots watch) reissue. (Photo courtesy of Style Essentials)

I remain tempted by the manual-wind Stowa pilot's watch, but ultimately purchased a Marine Original; itself a wristwatch-sized reimagining of the German WWII-era naval deck watch, the Kriegsmarine.  Below is a photo of SteveG's Kriegsmarine, which he has posted previously.  As you see pictures of my watch, it becomes clear that it is an homage to this timepiece from the 1940s.




(This photo belongs to SteveG) 

Why the Marine Original?

- Ideal size (for me): 41mm;
- Tried-and-true workhorse movement: ETA/Unitas 6498;
- Clean, legible dial;
- Can be dressed-up or down;
- Attractive price point.  I bought mine used, but new it's still a good deal IMO at roughly 1,000 USD (690 EUR is the current price given by Stowa).

So, let's now take a photo tour of my Marine Original.  The first thing that attracted me, was the clean and simple dial with its blued hands (You probably can't see the blue hue in my poor pictures, sorry.) and small seconds display at 9 o'clock:

Telling time is helped considerably by the classic railroad track minute markers.

Below is a macro of the dial that shows the slightly grainy texture of the white dial.  The printing evinces some bleeding at this magnification, but on the wrist to the naked eye, I've not found this to be an issue or distraction.  I'll let you judge for yourself, of course.

The small seconds subdial of the Stowa Marine Original is one of my favorite things about the watch.  I love the shape of the second hand with its perfectly round balance.  Again, legibility is high, even on this small display thanks to the railroad track display around the subdial, coupled with elongated/bolded indices at the five-second marks.  The subdial railroad-style seconds display serves as a unifying feature on the dial, as it echoes the larger minute track along the outer edge of the overall dial.

There is a light circular grain in the recessed small seconds subdial.  Both the graining and the act of setting the subdial at a different level than the rest of the watch face adds a three-dimensional, textured look to the dial.  I do, however, think the circular graining would've been better served with a cleaner, more forceful application of the technique.  The end result at this level of magnification is a bit sloppy and uneven.

My Marine Original has a polished stainless steel case.  The watch is also offered in brushed stainless steel or rosegold as well.  If scratches and general "desk diving" marks are the bane of your existence I might suggest the brushed or matte finish on the Marine Original, as the polished version, like mine, is a magnet for small scratches.  I'm fairly zen about the little scratches to the case (as long as they're not real dings or pits), so polished steel works for me.  In the picture below you can see small scratches near the crown of the watch, which is signed with the Stowa logo, and you might be able to see some on the side view of the case and lugs, as well.  The watch is certainly seeing some life outside the watch box, and I'm happier for it!

The fluted crown is well-sized, proportional to its case, and signed with the Stowa logo.

The lugs are gently arched and very comfortable against my wrist.  The watch is thick enough at 10.8mm, but isn't too chunky for its size IMO.  The bezel angles upward slightly to a sapphire crystal on the dial side which is lightly domed.  The effect upon viewing the watch is that it's "all dial."

I've shown photos of the Marine Original's movement before.  The watch houses the robust ETA/Unitas 6498.  The watch runs perfectly without fail day in and day out, but as a preventative measure should probably see the local watchmaker later this year or early in 2010.

The movement is simply, and honestly decorated with Côtes de Genève.  Screws are blued, but the slots retain their nickel color.  For a watch at this price point it is to be expected, but ideally I would prefer, should blued screws be used, that they be crafted so that the entire screw is evenly colored.

The ratchet and crown wheels are finished in more of a sunburst pattern, as seen below:

The Stowa name is engraved onto the top plate:

The prettiest parts of the movement to me, as seen through the sapphire display back, is the combination of swan's neck regulator and golden balance wheel floating above the perlage on the base plate.

The watch arrives in a somewhat industrial-looking metal box that's lined in a black faux leather material along with a travel pouch made of that same faux leather, so for those who love fancy watch boxes, Stowa will not cut it for you.  The OEM strap also left a lot to be desired IMO.  My watch is on a navy aftermarket strap with natural stitching instead.

Stowa watch box.

OEM brown leather strap with buckle signed Stowa.

I continue to enjoy my Stowa Marine Original, and wear it often for work and play.  It is a good companion for a meeting at the office, yet easily makes the transition to jeans and a tee for a night of Korean BBQ with friends.  In summary:   

The Marine Original is a wristwatch inspired by German naval deck chronometers of the 1940s.  The model I own has a white dial, blued hands, and a small seconds display at 6 o'clock -- all housed within a polished stainless steel case.  The watch contains an ETA/Unitas 6498 movement with blued screws, a swan neck regulator, and is decorated with Côte de Genève.  Sapphire crystals are affixed on both the dial and display back.  The watch is 41mm wide, 10.8mm thick, and 22mm at the lugs.  It is offered in the following configurations:

- Polished or brushed stainless steel case;
- Brushed rose gold case;
- White dial with black script and blued hands;
- Black dial with white script and white hands;
- Both white and black dials are offered with Arabic or Roman numerals.

If you made it this far, thanks for reading.  In preparing this post, I referenced both the Stowa website, and an article from Calibre magazine called "Pilot's Watch: The B-UHREN" by Jason Ang.

Cheers,
Daos

This message has been edited by dxboon on 2009-08-17 05:59:52

Watch, my dear Daos, and impressive work done.

Always is a pleasure read you.

Best and congrats and thanks a lot

Emilio

I'm so happy you had the opportunity to read the article.  Your comments are so kind.  I very much appreciate them.  I hope your week is going well.

Warm regards,
Daos

… I now know the strengths and weaknesses of the watch, what attracted you to it in the first place and, more importantly, what keeps it in your collection. Very good photography as well which illustrated each of your points.

 

Few could do better, Daos. Well done and a very enjoyable read.

 

Andrew

...were worthwhile if you and others have enjoyed it.  I think it is hilarious how much I love my watches sometimes.  This Stowa has been a faithful companion throughout so many adventures, so I feel fortunate to own it.  Thanks for your kind note.

Cheers,
Daos

I've always liked the look of the deck watch inspired wristwatches and the Stowa is the best of the lot in terms of value.

- SJX

...have a great, clean, timeless look.  I love the genre.  Stowa offers tremendous value across their entire range IMO.  Buying the Marine Original was a good way for me to get into watches. 

Thanks for the nice note!

Cheers,
Daos

Thanks for taking the time.

...folks are enjoying the article.  It was a lot of fun to put together!  Of course, there's always room for improvement in the writing and photography departments (Accursed typos!)!  Thanks for reading, and for the kind note!

Cheers,
Daos

...a definitive review of a quiet classic.

Thanks for taking the time Daos, and for delivering not only an insightful perspective but, importantly, an honest one. There's a case to be made for this watch to be a fixture in most watchboxes, a la Speedy Pro. Your review fixes it firmly in its right place in the scheme of things and as Andrew observes the photos make the 'story'.

A small contribution with your permission (hopefully!...): another variant, the lacquer-dialled LE -

Thanks again - keep 'em coming.

 

Cheers,

pplater.

 

 

I really love your limited edition MO, Pplater.  The red "12" just bursts off the lacquer dial.  Fantastic stuff!  Thanks for your nice note, and for sharing a picture of your beautiful watch.  I'd be proud to own one! 

Cheers,
Daos

Daos, glad you posted this. Very nice review and I think you've hit the nail on the head.  The Stowa MO is a very nice watch, and in the value-for-money category (always among the most important for me) it is hard to exceed.  I also love the marine deck watch/chronometer aesthetic.

I think Joerg Schauer is an excellent crafter of the Stowa line, and the lead times for ordering (typically 3-5 months) to attest that I'm not the only one who thinks so.  In delivering value in well executed historical designs with modern quality-plus movements he leads the way. 

I am partial also the Antea Kleine Sekunde (KS), a 35.5 mm watch based on a 1930's design.  I got one for my wife, with the mesh bracelet (Stowa's photo below).  Runs with a Peseux 7001 in (I believe) Soprod's highest level of decoration:

 

Silver-plated dial, rhodium-plated movement, blued hands,  and very well-executed concentric circles in the subdial, in contrast to the MO your identified above.  Again, a tremendous value for what is delivered.

In an era when it seems everyone and his brother with a small watch company is making gigantic sport divers with ETA movements in armor-plated cases containing indifferent dials and nevertheless charging a mint, I am very happy to support a company that is updating classic designs in easy-to-wear formats and good attention to detail, for very good prices.  These are true daily wearers.

 

-Tom

i have a friend who is a lurking member here, but is yet to post. a year ago he purchased his first ever mechanical watch, a 1944 Omega 30T2. bought by accident as he went into the shop to get a battery change and came out with a mint original classic Omega.

i first came into contact with him through one of the forums(i think) about 6 months or so ago. i think he asked me some advice about a new Omega purchase. since then he's seen my collection and being transfixed by all the designs and movements available. he's scanned this and other forums and lived a turmoil of seeing stunning watches he'll never be able to afford as he has a vocation rather than a job.

he has in the last couple of weeks come down to really liking 2 watches. a Nomos or a Stowa. they are both similar in design, clear, clean and readable. the Nomos has the benefit of a German in-house movement, but the Stowa has the benefit of tried and tested reliable swiss movements which in the future anyone can service. he prefers the date model which i think is the Antea with a 2824 inside, but the look is very similar to the MO. he also likes the fact that you can buy direct from the company and the price band is within his reach for a new one which the Nomos isnt.

i will bring this excellent review to his attention and the likelihood is that there will be a positive outcome.

thanks again Daos, a great review

Graham

Your friend has good taste!    From Stowa's Antea line I like the 39mm cream dial best.  The lugs are a bit delicate-looking, however.  The non-date 40mm Nomos Club is a beauty!  I love the dark dialed version of that watch.  I was super impressed when I handled it last year.

Thanks for the nice note, Graham!  I hope your friend will consider joining us, instead of lurking!  I'd love for him to start posting!  How about pictures of his vintage Omega?

Cheers,
Daos

...when your friend might join us in the non-lurking light!    All in good time, as they say! 

Cheers,
Daos

No message body

...I thought the cases were nice, and the PVD'd 1Tausend diver was attractive.  I think the movements could be finished a little bit more on some of the Klassik/Pharo models, for my taste.  There seems to be a lot of competition in, and around, the price points of Limes' catalog, which may be why I haven't looked at them a bit more thoroughly.  Maybe I should take another gander! 

Cheers,
Daos

The Antea KS is a very handsome watch.  With its Bauhaus theme and perfectly petite proportions (by modern standards), I agree it makes for a compelling daily wearer.  I hear good things about the mesh bracelet Stowa offers.  It is supposed to be quite comfortable.  Thanks for sharing, and I am grateful for your comments!

Cheers,
Daos

Daos,

I believe Stowa sources the bracelets from Staib, a high quality manufacturer in Pforzheim.

Having handled one, I can confirm the comfort, smooth operation, and attractive looks.  I found the mesh made the Antea KS look much more "feminine"; I tried also moving the watch to a black  leather strap, and it looked so good on me; I had a hard time giving it back to my wife!

-Tom

 

Your comments seem to echo many others' words regarding the comfort and finish of the mesh bracelet.    Your watch looks very nice on it!

Cheers,
Daos

I can testify that the Antea KS is a beauty - it evokes a sensation that matches your mood. Sometimes it feels retro, other times strikingly modern. I guess that's the essence of timeless design. Here's a rough shot of mine. Enjoy.

...of a great watch.  This is a fantastic dress watch for the office IMO. Perfect for any sort of shirtsleeve!  I love the font used for the numerals!  Thanks for sharing your watch with us!

Cheers,
Daos

As usual, sister, I am in awe.

A wonderful review. 

Ginger

and a great watch, especially at that price point.  However, I must admit to being partial to Mr. Schauer as I own one of his Day-Date Zentral watches and I admire what he has done with Stowa.  Thanks for that review!

My favorite is the Einzeiger.  I often like watches with unusual displays, so Schauer's single-handed watch is very attractive to me.  Thanks for your nice note.  I appreciate you taking the time to read my post.

Cheers,
Daos

I had a blast putting this article together!  I wish I had an editor to read my pieces before posting though.  There was a spelling mistake and other similar small errors within my piece.  Ah, well.    Your kind words mean a lot.  Hopefully, folks on the board found my post interesting, at the very least! 

Hope all is well!

Cheers,
Daos 

. . . of what I like to refer to as an honest watch: true to form, unpretentious, and purposeful. I'm not at all surprised that it won your affection ;-) . . . warmest regards, Art

There's just something about German watches!  LOL!  In all seriousness, I'm very happy with the Stowa.  It works well, and looks good IMO.  This watch certainly jump-started my interest in learning more about the various models offered by German manufacturers.

Thanks for the nice words!

Cheers,
Daos

I really enjoyed your review and the close up photos of the Stowa.  I've always liked pilot watches and like how you describe them as "modern vintage".

I think that's perfect even if it does sound a little contradictive.  They have a wonderful balance of clean lines, simplicity of character, and vintage cool.

Thanks for sharing.