Comments:
The “Neptune” enamel dial by Nelly Richard & Stern Frères
During the early 1950s enameller Nelly Richard and renowned Fabrique de Cadrans Stern Frères of Geneva produced a small quantity of dials (probably just a little over ten) depicting Neptune riding his chariot.
credit: Christie's
The “live” photos below seem to belong to the same example, but I'm not certain.
credit: @havanasun
7/ MOVEMENT NO. 13'737'795
Applied Omega logo at 6 o'clock & “Omega Chronomètre Automatic” below
Sold by Sotheby's & Bonhams
credit: Sotheby's & Bonhams
8/ THE ONLY ROSE GOLD EXAMPLE?
All the examples above are in yellow gold, whereas this one is in rose gold.
credit: Harmmond Wong (Christie's Asia) aka @harmmondwong
Now, let's have a look at the three Rolex examples.
B/ ROLEX
1/ REF. 8382
Sold by by Christie's in 2011 and by Phillips in 2017 & 2024 (in 2024 the watch was wrongly referenced as 8323)
Thanks for looking.
Most were mounted on Omega Seamaster watches, but a few were on Rolex watches.
Let's have a comprehensive look.
A/ OMEGA SEAMASTER
1/ EXAMPLE FROM THE OMEGA MUSEUM IN BIEL/BIENNE (link)
Applied Omega logo at 6 o'clock & “Omega Automatic” below
credit: watchphotos.com
2/ MOVEMENT NO. 12'337'146
Applied Omega logo at 6 o'clock & no text below
1/ EXAMPLE FROM THE OMEGA MUSEUM IN BIEL/BIENNE (link)
Applied Omega logo at 6 o'clock & “Omega Automatic” below
credit: watchphotos.com
2/ MOVEMENT NO. 12'337'146
Applied Omega logo at 6 o'clock & no text below
No painted minute markers
Sold by Antiquorum
credit: Antiquorum
The following photos are probably from another example (authentic?), but, like the example above, there is no text below the applied Omega logo at 6 o'clock and no painted minute markers.
credit: tokeibakai.exblog.jp
3/ MOVEMENT NO. 12'337'147
Applied Omega logo at 6 o'clock & “Omega Chronomètre Automatic” below
Sold by Antiquorum
credit: Antiquorum
4/ MOVEMENT NO. 12'430'172
Applied Omega logo at 6 o'clock & “Omega Chronomètre Automatic” below
Sold by Antiquorum
NB: as jmousey suggests in his comment, the authenticity of this one is really questionable.
credit: Antiquorum
5/ MOVEMENT NO. 13'232'096
Applied Omega logo at 6 o'clock & “Omega Chronomètre Automatic” below
Sold by Christie's & Antiquorum
credit: Christie's & Antiquorum
Sold by Antiquorum
credit: Antiquorum
The following photos are probably from another example (authentic?), but, like the example above, there is no text below the applied Omega logo at 6 o'clock and no painted minute markers.
credit: tokeibakai.exblog.jp
3/ MOVEMENT NO. 12'337'147
Applied Omega logo at 6 o'clock & “Omega Chronomètre Automatic” below
Sold by Antiquorum
credit: Antiquorum
4/ MOVEMENT NO. 12'430'172
Applied Omega logo at 6 o'clock & “Omega Chronomètre Automatic” below
Sold by Antiquorum
NB: as jmousey suggests in his comment, the authenticity of this one is really questionable.
credit: Antiquorum
5/ MOVEMENT NO. 13'232'096
Applied Omega logo at 6 o'clock & “Omega Chronomètre Automatic” below
Sold by Christie's & Antiquorum
credit: Christie's & Antiquorum
6/ MOVEMENT NO. 13'232'097
Applied Omega logo at 6 o'clock & “Omega Chronomètre Automatic” below
credit: Christie's
The “live” photos below seem to belong to the same example, but I'm not certain.
credit: @havanasun
7/ MOVEMENT NO. 13'737'795
Applied Omega logo at 6 o'clock & “Omega Chronomètre Automatic” below
Sold by Sotheby's & Bonhams
credit: Sotheby's & Bonhams
8/ THE ONLY ROSE GOLD EXAMPLE?
All the examples above are in yellow gold, whereas this one is in rose gold.
It was sold by Christie's in Hong Kong on May 28th, 2018, but it isn't listed anymore on their website.
Applied Omega logo at 6 o'clock & “Omega Chronomètre Automatic” below
credit: Harmmond Wong (Christie's Asia) aka @harmmondwong
Now, let's have a look at the three Rolex examples.
B/ ROLEX
1/ REF. 8382
Sold by by Christie's in 2011 and by Phillips in 2017 & 2024 (in 2024 the watch was wrongly referenced as 8323)
Thanks for looking.
Best, Emmanuel
As always dear Emmanuel!
Wonderful and well thought post.
I’m really glad you bring about these wonderful and interesting watches for all of us to enjoy. And also the nuances of collecting this pieces.
Wonderful and many thanks.
René
I’m really glad you bring about these wonderful and interesting watches for all of us to enjoy. And also the nuances of collecting this pieces.
Wonderful and many thanks.
René
My pleasure. How the same dial was commissioned by Omega and Rolex
is quite surprising.
Best, Emmanuel
Best, Emmanuel
Thanks for putting this bit of history together.
I don't collect this type of watch, but I enjoy seeing them, so this is a great read. I that the second Omega "logo no text" is so clean, and the Rolex pieces likewise. It really lets the art stand out.
Thank you, Steve.
I find it surprising and interesting that the same dial wal commissioned by Omega and Rolex.
Best, Emmanuel
Best, Emmanuel
1950s cloisonne enamel dials are amazing
The Stern company made many of these. The artists would make sketches and the dial maker would shop them at the various brands. Some were true comission mission pieces, like the Omega observatory ref OT2699 and some Coat of Arm models, but many could be shared between various brands - that's why popular motifs like flowers, mythical creatures, animals, patterns, maps, sail boats etc were popular. The artists were paid 50 - 150 CHF for each dial they made for the company (obviously Stern would then sell the dials to the watch companies at a mark up). The back of these dials were counter enameled (to prevent warping) and the Stern logo, a star, would be stamped on the back, together with a customer code (number). The artist would sometimes also etch their name onto the back to of the dial.
Re second example specifically, I suspect the Omega text and minute track were cleaned off. These text were padded printed and prone to complete removal when cleaned. I'm not sure why "Seamaster" doesn't appear, as this would have been painted onto the scene and fired, thus becoming a part of the artwork (which is essentially glass, so can't be removed). In the case of Omega, both the nepture ref OT2520 and observatory were equipped with chronometer grade movements, so time keeping would have been important. It makes little sense not to have a minute track in that case.
Re third example specifically, it is unfortunately not the work of Nelly Richards. The use of colors are different, and the details of execution is sub-par (see details in the hand holding the trident, details of the shadow areas of the bicep and under the pectoral muscles, for example). It could be a later creation, as some of the enamel paints made in the 1950s can no longer be sold due to toxicity concerns, or it could be the stylistic choice of another arists - red being not red and black not being black. The dial still looks like cloisonne enamel.
Re fourth example specifically, it is a complete fake and a pretty crude one at that. If you look at that dial closely, the word CHRONOMETER isn't even spelt correctly, it should CHRONOMETRE with an accent over the first E. I don't believe the dial is even cloisonne eneml. I honestly don't know why Antiquorum would go through the trouble of selling this.
Also note both the third and forth example use incorrect applied markers for this dial, which could be UNIQUE to the ref OT2520.
I had a chance to see the Neptune in the Omega museum in Jan 2025. It is as amazing in person as shown in the picture above. I think everyone should go and see at least one of these 1950s cloisonne enamel dials at least once.
One final point, the last Rolex ref 4645 would be an amaing feat of dial construction if all the applied markers are set into the dial with dial feet. This could be easily done if the feet was set into the outer rim of the dial, which is made of 18K gold, but extraordinary difficult if they were set into the cloisonne enamel, which in essence requires drillng into glass in 12 positions without cracking the whole thing. I therefore suspect applied markers re glued on, rather than set into the dial. However, if anyone else knows otherwise, I'd be interested to learn.
Thank you so much!
I'm impressed by the accuracy of your observation, and reading your comments is fascinating.
I think you're absolutely right on all counts.
Regarding example no. 4, in particular, I had serious doubts, but since it was sold by Antiquorum, foolishly, I didn't dare ignore it...
Thanks again for taking the time to wrist your detailed observations.
Best, Emmanuel
I think you're absolutely right on all counts.
Regarding example no. 4, in particular, I had serious doubts, but since it was sold by Antiquorum, foolishly, I didn't dare ignore it...
Thanks again for taking the time to wrist your detailed observations.
Best, Emmanuel