Comments:
Horological warfare: stainless steel perpetual calendars
L.U.Chopard’s new perpetual twin
US$24,700
monochrome-watches.com
Versus
IWC’s new Portugueser Perpetual Calendar
US$22,000
www.timeandwatches.com
Which wins? I know what I’d buy
This message has been edited by cazalea on 2020-04-27 17:28:01
US$24,700
monochrome-watches.com
Versus
IWC’s new Portugueser Perpetual Calendar
US$22,000
www.timeandwatches.com
Which wins? I know what I’d buy
This message has been edited by cazalea on 2020-04-27 17:28:01
None
When it comes to perpetual calendars, I gravitate back to Patek — and thats only if I want one which I don’t at this point. I think the presentation of a PC is very important. The problem with the Chopard is the case size. If at 39-40mm I think this would’ve stood out a bit more.
Yeah, the size makes it a no-go for certain-sized wrists.
But then again (please correct me if I’m wrong) Patek doesn’t make a dress watch perpetual calendar in stainless steel. if they did, it wouldn’t be in the same pricing category and the waitlist would be quoted in ‘decades’😁😁
Yes, but the Chopard counters with a large date and a microrotor.... [nt]
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It’s more than a counter-attack, IMHO.
65-hr PR from a micro-rotor!!!
There’s another couple of neat tid-bits up it’s sleeve as well. Let’s see if others appreciate them, or see them as just marketing talk points.
There’s another couple of neat tid-bits up it’s sleeve as well. Let’s see if others appreciate them, or see them as just marketing talk points.
True.
The base Chopard movement is one for which I have a soft spot. It was an early movement to adopt a double barrel system to increase the power reserve. While the Pellaton winding system is frequently discussed in the context of the IWC 7 day movements, the Chopard actually has something similar, using a cam to ratchet and wind the mainspring. This gives the rotor that jumpy rotational movement that is more appreciable with the microrotor than in the back of a Portuguese (part of that effect may be due to the profile of the cam as well). Too bad they don’t Geneva Seal them anymore. As you said, lots of cool details, some of which are thanks to Michael Parmagiani.
I can only nod in appreciation for the erudition. 🙏🏿
Is the geneva seal issue just due to manufacture location? And, if so, why couldn’t they issue it with the QF (Qualite Fleurier) certification if it is truly finished to the same degree??
Thanks for the kind comment
As you might know, they used to Geneva seal the more refined variants of that movement (for example in the 1.96 but not the 4.96 of the Chopard Sport 2000) but stopped obtaining Geneva seals when they started doing QF. I would imagine that it certainly remains an option, and my only guess is that they haven’t continued it for political (and maybe economical) reasons. Perhaps someone else has a deeper knowledge of the thought process behind that migration towards a different certification.
Thanks,
Brian
Thanks,
Brian
Moon phase vs large date
Tough call. I think I like the previous IWC perpetual better than either of these, but I voted for a GO perpetual with my dollars. I like getting the Panorama date, moon phase, and leap year indication.
The Chopard, for its higher level of finishings and its micro rotor. [nt]
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I think that most would agree.
I wonder what people think of the following:
1. IWC’s synchronized jumping of the the day/date/month at the same instant.
2. L.U.Chopard’s COSC certification.
How many people value one attribute over the other?
1. IWC’s synchronized jumping of the the day/date/month at the same instant.
2. L.U.Chopard’s COSC certification.
How many people value one attribute over the other?
I would rather favor the Chopard COSC Certification ( and movement ). ;) [nt]
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Count me with you wholeheartedly. I do have a Chopard LUC date with Geneva Seal and it's thoughtfully finished.
I don't wear it frequently due to pressing consideration of other watches but it's a class apart in many ways. I feel so-called fashion house brands like Chopard and Cartier take care of finishing their high-end watches better than many haute horology maisons do. Just my 2 cents... Regards
Chopard I posted recently in another thread. Here it is reproduced for visual delight.
Cartier Santos and Tank are in safe. Will take out and post some time later
I agree; I would go with the COSC as I am rarely up at midnight
ONLY up that late to take pictures of my perpetuals changing ...