I've been fortunate enough to own a couple really fine (i.e. expensive truly worth it) independent watches, which for the moment I won't mention so as to not color the thread too much...
Anyway, the appreciation and deepening interest in the Independent Spirit continues to flourish.
Now I'm fantasizing about the daily wearer in Independent form.
Some candidates are the obvious: Habring. Except for me, I am not quite as enamored as many are here with Habring--yet at the same time can easily appreciate what draws so many here to the House.
Nomos Tangomat. Inexpensive (relatively) and SO minimalist. (is this an Independent brand? Feels like.)
Sarpeneva. The KO is a fascinating watch. I do not know what it costs... is it in this realm?
the Ochs and Junior Tinta... so minimalist, original-ist and cool.
the MIH annual calendar.... so cool.... truly minimalist.
Did I mention I like minimalism? But I also love classic Swiss designs.
So what say you?
The 10K (ish) or less or slightly more independent watch? Which would you like to wear or --do you wear--daily?
In this case, I am especially interested in the best kept secret brand that may cost very little relatively. Do you know this brand that I don't?
I'm very open on this subject and feel I do not have a full grasp of what is available.
BELOW, IN ORDER OF APPEARANCE: HABRING, NOMOS, SARPANEVA, OCHS AND JUNIOR, MIH.
CREDITS: Nomos: Karl. MIH: Steve. Others, noted or from brand site. This message has been edited by Mostel on 2012-07-27 17:45:03
I understand where you are coming from if you use the AHCI definition of an independent as in the words of Philippe Wurtz, President of the AHCI:
"As an Académie, we want to pass along our knowledge and skills. We are Créateurs because our creative spirit is reflected in our works. Indépendants means that every member joins us as an independent, individual person."
You are absolutely correct because Seiko is not an individual person and by the definition of the AHCI is not an "Independent"
However there is another school of thought on what should warrant an independent and in my opinion
Salman's Definition of an independent is:
1) Not Owned by a Luxury Conglomerate (i.e. Richemont, LVMH, Swatch etc.)
2) Fully integrated Production Process (all components are made by the company, subsidiaries and associated companies)
3) Committed to the highest standards of watch making and finishing in the same vein as Philippe Dufour, KV, Roger Smith etc. ( and by this condition Rolex is excluded)
I would like to take this opportunity (as it would be a huge disservice to Seiko and all they have done to create a separate brand "Grand Seiko" since 1960 and the revival of Grand Seiko and Credor since 1998) to highlight the connection with arguably the best practitioner of the horological arts in the AHCI and also Seiko's commitment to point 3 aforementioned.
In your post you inferred that "Seiko" is one entity. That is not the case and to use an analogy from the automotive world when it comes to brand distinction I would never group Brabus, AMG and Mercedes together therefore in the case of Seiko, Grand Seiko, and GS Special Editions/Credor (the ownership and corporate structure is different as highlighted in the excellent report by KIH:
or in Nissan's case the GTR
The technology, level and attention to detail and ethos is completely different from the rest of the company to the extent they are distinct and separate units of manufacture.
Which brings me to the excellent posts by SJX in the past on Seiko
Mr. Philippe Dufour worked as a consultant for the Micro Arts Studio (MAS) at the Seiko Epson Shiojiri factory near Suwa City in the Nagano Prefecture. The watches that come out of the MAS are like the Credor Eichi and Credor Minute Repeater. If you notice the culture and level of finish and even the quantity produced (please refer to the link below) is in the same vein as the Non Asian Independents
At the separate factory in Morioka, Iwate Prefecture owned by the Seiko Watch Corporation called "Seiko Instruments Incorporated Shizukuishi Watch Studio where Grand Seiko watches are made, total production is only around 20,000 pieces a year. I refer to this factory as the Lexus or AMG of the overall Seiko brand. I am not sure if Mr. Philippe Dufour also advised this unit, maybe SJX or KIH can ask this question from Seiko PR.
The Grand Seiko is a legendary watch brand and I would like to bring to your attention another post by KIH:
The quality of finish, attention to detail, inhouse movements of Grand Seikos and then special dial and case finishes for Special Edition or Master Shop Grand Seiko's brings these watches in the same league as Non Asian Independents. SJX's excellent report on his visit to the Shizukuishi Watch Studio:
Even if we combine the total production of the separately owned Micro Arts Studio and the Grand Seiko Shizukuishi Factory it hardly warrants it being the second largest watch manufacturer in the world which could be approximately 20,050 watches a year? or even 20,100? very very low production.
S
This message has been edited by SALMANQ8 on 2012-07-29 20:55:08
Good suggestions above. As to Habring2/Sarpaneva: with Habring2 that you can bespoke your watch. Make it look more "classic" if you want (or not). For more "minimalist" consider a titanium case (see below). Whatever you want your dial to look like -- colors, elements -- you can probably get it done. My Habring2s are daily users; the watch I posted on WristScan this week takes punishment. As for Sarpaneva, if you like minimalist, look at a K1, which in steel is right around $10K. Another independent pricing below $10K is RGM.
Personally, I would not include Nomos with the "independents" that are subject of this forum. Being independent from one of the big luxury groups alone is certainly not a criterium, otherwise we would have to add Patek, Audemars Piguet, Ulysse Nardin, Rolex etc. to the choice. Nomos does not have one responsible watchmaker developing AND making the movements, but is an industrial watch producing company, albeit on a small scale.
One member watchmaker of the AHCI has not been mentioned yet, but his watches are certainly in the lowest price segment of the "true independents": Rainer Nienaber.
Thanks for clarifying the segment Nomos occupies--I wan't sure.
I was especially interested in the lower priced segment, in the service of 'the best kept secret' Independent watchmaker. Independent Spirit --outside of the best known, most revered watchmakers--to me--points toward something little known and maybe not entirely discovered--yet.
I thank you.
This message has been edited by Mostel on 2012-07-29 16:15:46