Independents

A too ordinary title to describe what we saw and who we met...

Imagine a Londonian shop, a nice one, where you can meet some great brands as AP, JLC, FPJ etc...

You will tell me OK, what 's the matter?

You went in a nice shop and then?

THEN?

We just saw some of the most brilliant Independant watches ....With their Creators!

I miust confess that I don't know very well the Independants World, an d that this was the opportunity, at least to me, to discover them, to have the time to understand what's behind these special watches, and to speak with " Monsieurs " like The De Bethune Team, Peter Sepake Marin ( Too shortly..;Sadly ), Roger W Smith, for instance.

Among all the watches and brands I saw, I had some confirmations, and a revelation.

The confirmations?

De Bethune watches...

I'm admiring them fro a moment, now, their specificity in the Horological World, horologically and aesthetically speaking, and I'm more and more convinced of their interest.

An impressive Black Beast:





A Spherical moonphase at 6, a very original design ( assymatrical lugs, crown at 6, layout of the dial ), and interesting technical solutions, but I think that our Independants Experts will speak more and better than me about that.

You may love it or hate it for the same reasons you love it, but once thing is sure, it won't let you undifferent!

Another one I saw in the flesh is at another extremity, the Digitale:

Here, the sobriety of this watch and of this concept ( we may even say ..minimalism ), contrasts with the extravagance of the Black Beauty, but it is not less interesting, of course.

Just at the middle of these 2 extremities, we have what I would call a nice compromise:





Here we still have an original design, with the spherical moonphase, the blend of subdials and windows to provide the necessary datas of the perpeutal calendar, and these lugs which remind some Ulysse Nardin models.

A very young interpretation fo this complication, indeed, with a superbly finished movement, using the original technical solutions.



As you can see, the lugs are unimitable!

And on the wrist, it works!



And now, my 2 favourite De Bethune watches...

The simpler one, which doesn't mean unperfectibly finished.

A very nice and modern guilloché dial, captivating, with thes aerian lugs, in smaller dimensions than the 2 previous De Bethune posted here:



And as always, a superb and interesting movement:



I kept the last De Bethune ofr the end, as it is my true " Coup de Coeur ", the DBS 24 Vetroi, a Concept Watch looking piece, with a very strong personality:





This watch is presented as a Sport Watch , with its 3 gears regulating system, driven by the crown.

High, when you practice your favourite sport with your watch on the wrist, to avoid the over wind of the barrel.

Middle, for a normal activity.

Low, in case of inactivity.

Isn't it genial?

But be careful, this last De Bethune is a big watch ( around 46 mm ), and it may be a problem for small wrists.



The other confirmation is Moser, with the Mayu, and the Perpetual calendar.

The Mayu is a lovely understated watch.

A Classic and elegant dial, hiding a very nice houd wound caliber with 3 Days Power Reserve.





Now, please admire the movement:





The Perpetual Calendar is a minimalist piece, too, I would even say spectacularly minimalist!

Only one window for the date, and a power reserve indicator for the 7 Days Autonomy.



A very nice curved case back:



The Moser have to be seen in the flesh to fully appreciate them!

Next and last post to come: The Surprises and Revelations

Best,

Nicolas

 

 

This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2009-06-30 09:55:56

. . . after thousands of posts, countless hours of reading, and even telephone conversations, it never dawned on me that the world of independent watchmakers had largely escaped your notice. I sense a shift in your appetite, mon ami . . . cordially, Art

More than that!

I'm on to dig a bit more this topic, my friend.

I feel like a newbie, and that's a really great feeling.

Best,

Nicolas

I had an eye on the PSM watches, but sadly no time to see them well, because of FX who spent a lot of time to admire them, but I can tell you that what I too quickly ) saw was very pleasant, and I msure that he will post a brilliantb thread about them

I guess that it would be my next step in the horological world.

My 2 surprises were:

1/ The RW Smith watch:

First of all, it was a great pleasure to be albe to speak with Mr smith himself, who explained me his creations, ideas, and hopes.

Then, he showed me the watch he brought with him.

I have to precise that this watch is a special order, so the " normal " productuon won't come with this dial.

The work on the watch is really awesome and deeply impressive.

Blue Heated and Gold Hands, different guilloché on the dial, all the watch is artisticly handcrafted.

And the outcome is awesome, even if I would personally prefer a more sober dial, without the scultpure on the center.





When you look at the case back, you're also impressed by the conception of the movement, very nicely executed.





It is strange but if you make abstraction of the center of the dial, don't the guilloché and the finish of the level make you think about another brand?

Breguet?

And the movement?

La Tradition?

No?

I really appreciated this watch and hope to be able to see a " normal " production in the flesh, one day...

Temptation?

2/ ....Romain Gauthier :

Attention...Masterpiece!

More than a surprise, a Revelation.

You immediately have a sensation, the conviction that it is a sublime watch.





To say all, while viewing press files pics, I didn't get all its beauty.

The layout of the dial , with this excentered subdial for the hour and minutes, this blend of guilloché and smooth parts, all these details are just sublime.

I also appreciate the long, quite thin and elegant lugs.

You will also notice the lack of crown, which adds Purity to the case.





Lack of crown?

Not really, but ingeniously located on the case back, like it was the case on a famous Vintage JLC, the Future Matic.

But here, instead of sliding the crown to the center of the case back, you pull it, to wind and to set the time.

Warning, these 2 followinf=g pics are really dangerous, as you will admire another beautiful part of this watch, the movement, with some superb anglages, and perlages.

I've warned you...





I've been told that Romain Gauthier had 6 watchmakers, and that only 30 watches can be made each year...

Each watch requires 2 months of work.

I must admit that it was my bigger " coup de coeur " during this GTG...

So, thanks to all, William and Son, Mocopoletta, Vernon, Andrew 219, and to all the attendees who make this GTG a very special and unforgettable one.

Best,

Nicolas

I find myself more and more attracted to Romain's creation.  If it only had a second hand...

With a second hand, Allen...

I fear it would break its purity and elegance.

Damn, I was really positively shocked to see these watches!

Best,

Nicolas

The dials reflect such masterful elegance and the movements are awe inspiring works of art.  The Romain Gaultier has a cleaner symmetry with it's missing crown (although it feels a bit as though it's lost a limb...lol)

I just love how craftmanship and quality are  evident in the designs of the watches of the Independents.

pictures taken in October 2006...he just acquired this new space and together with his only watchmaker at that time (a young gentleman - 22 yo) they're making some amazing pieces...

 

 

adrian

It takes a brave set of individuals to set up a 100K+ CHF watch production in these times, but here they are. Almost a 50's tv screen, with a two time zone design and a movement made from scratch. Not my thing, but hefty and innovative. Well finished and with a tactile quality that was enticing. Ill leave it to others to decide (take a look at www. ladoire. ch (removing spaces):













With a very innovative buckle:



Cheers!

Andrew H

Thanks for the pictures, Andrew.

lights in the shop.  There was a curvature to the crystal (like a 50's tv set) that made it difficult to photograph.  That said, the movement is well finished.  I have my doubts on the kinetic energy of that rotor, but the representative assured me that it would be fine.

Not my taste, but it seems to ride on the stylistic comments from Opus 8 and movements by AP and RM.  The spiderweb designs are not my thing either and I asked why, and they were put there because they seemed to fit!  Still, something new, interesting, and I wish them the very best of luck.  If we all liked the same thing it would be a boring world!

Andrew H

I have to confess that I totally missed this brand.

Some interesting things, indeed, but the aesthetic is not my cup of tea.

To be followed!

Best,

Nicolas

This message has been edited by amanico on 2009-06-30 22:24:36

More than any other firm at the moment, DeBethune impress. We were lucky to have a Dream Watch 1 with us at the store: innovative movements, designs, case design, and styling. The future looks bright!











Dream Watch 1 (Robb Reports Best of the Best for this year):











Love the triple shock absorption escapement design (note the innovative balance wheel design):





Just look at the finishing on the movement:



Great to see such a collection of DeBethune watches. Many thanks

Andrew H

These De Bethune really impressed me...

Will end with one in my collection.

Just have to think about which one.

Best, and thanks for these excellent pics!

Nicolas

collection - a real gem of a watch.  Great to meet you and wish we could have had more time chatting - next time,tell me if you are in London.

Cheers

Andrew H

the 1655 is a real gem ...



and it looks nice on the wrist ...



But some of the DBs aren´t bad as well ...

Oliver

Convinced?

I'm ending a review on this special Rolex, and will post it in the very following days.

It is strange because I owned one, before, and sold it.

Then, several years after, !i began to fall in love again with it, and hunted one.

It took me a lot of time before finding ..Mine.

This one has really something very special, a weird allure, but a very pleasant one!

Best,

Nicolas

I really appreciate this kind of '"vintage" pieces, but I am still not sure if I am "rich enough" to wear a Rolex

It seems to be that they are not that difficult to find, if you are willed to pay the "sporty" prices. From the pictures I have seen so far they look (more or less) all like the same.
Where are THE differences? Do I have to buy "COLLECTING ROLEX GMT-MASTER WRISTWATCHES" to get the details? ...

Cheers my dangerous friend

Oliver

Ad you don't need to be rich to get one of these " Freccione ", or the even more affordable GMT 1675.

You can have fun for much less than one year ago.

Don't go for the details or the particularities, but only for your pleasure, a nice patina and a good condition.

If you want to go further on the details, yes, you're right, you will have to buy a book, and to do big homework before.

But it is not necessary...



Best,

Nicolas

but "not rich enough" was not mentioned because of the price tag.

What kept me away from Rolex - so far - is the message to everybody (and I mean everybody) if you have one on your wrist.
Aren´t they just too obvious if you don´t want to impress the "crowd"?

I love to wear watches for my personal pleasure. Nothing more, nothing less

Could it be possible with a "vintage" 1655? Maybe with a nato or leather strap?

Oliver

I completely understand what you mean, but I think this is a " state of mind ".

You're not obliged to jump on a very hot Rolex, you may be very happy with an understated one, like the Freccione, or the GMT which are not the most popular, which is very fine to me.

I don't really care about the others opinion about the watch I have on my wrist, and once, I heard a Policeman in the Court saying about my JLC MMR: " Wow, what a nice Swatch you have, Sir "...

Which was very pleasant to me, as I was the only one to know what my watch is.

So, what counts is your own pleasure.

In this case, the Freccione may be a very good competitor!



Best,

Nicolas

I would be insulted and give the watch away to a friend- me for example lol

Seriously though, I agree with you- the main reason for having and wearing a watch is our own enjoyment

Cheers

It was my pleasure, too!

Be sure that next time I come there, I'll inform you.

As for the 1655, this is one of my very fav Rolex.

Its original look, plus the fact that it wasn't ( isn't ) so popular adds a lot ot the interest I pay on this watch.

Best,

Nicolas

... but only on the wrist for a couple of minutes . I must confess i never payed a lot of attention to the explorer ... but this is such an elegant design ... i loved it from the first second i touched it. Filip

The DB25 in rose gold. Stunning watch in the metal.

But the same movement.  Is that yours Allen?  NICE! 

Andrew H

I saw it at a trunk show with the other dream watch pieces.