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Independents

Definitely noticed the De Berthunes....

 
 By: Watch Commission : August 1st, 2024-11:22
... will have to do some serious googling for a few weeks. I like to spend long flights with wifi reading up things like this. Fortunately I have a long existing wish list across all kinds of brands, and remain in touch with your team. See you there soon smile

Smaller

 
 By: xxn : August 1st, 2024-11:26
equates to more elegant, nothing to bring one down….

I agree.

 
 By: Watch Commission : August 1st, 2024-11:29
It’s more elegant. I wish I was too…

I hate that for you! I’ve been there before—disappointed with a piece I was in love with. Thoughts on their Parallax Tourby? Checkout the RG Logical One. Moving to a different style, what about the Zeitwerk by Lange?

 
 By: Obeezy : August 1st, 2024-12:13

I own a Zeitwerk Striking Time

 
 By: Watch Commission : August 1st, 2024-14:16
… so you see how I am ok with big phat watches, and that we share a taste

I do! Also, see we have the same taste. You have options though, my friend.

 
 By: Obeezy : August 1st, 2024-16:16

Patek 5070?

 
 By: amanico : August 1st, 2024-12:27




Great option.

 
 By: mdg : August 1st, 2024-15:17

A safe one.

 
 By: amanico : August 1st, 2024-15:36

MB&F Legacy Machines 44 mm, Haldimann H1 42 mm

 
 By: LK : August 1st, 2024-12:28

Those are all amazing pieces

 
 By: MDT : August 1st, 2024-14:52

Too bad! But...

 
 By: m2 : August 1st, 2024-14:12
I think there are much more interesting watches in the price range, and it's better to have a big wrist than a small wrist because most of the crazy cool independent stuff is quite large.

The Romain Gauthier Logical one springs to mind. 43mm. 

MB&F perpetual calendars are pretty big too. 

The Armin Strom Mirrored Force Resonance is 44mm and ~11mm or so thick

And if you can swing it....some Greubel Forsey stuff trades for ~$120k - $180kish...some very interesting pieces especially pre ~2019-2020 floating around. They are chunky but incredible...

Definitely paying attention to Armin Strom

 
 By: Watch Commission : August 1st, 2024-15:03

They'll do custom work too

 
 By: m2 : August 1st, 2024-15:13
Have mine coming in later this month hopefully. I'll post a review when I get it. Have spent a lot of time with the Principia too.

Argh, hate it when that happens! I prefer larger watches and have experienced the same when I was super excited to try a watch on only to realize that irl it looked tiny on my wrist.

 
 By: Fastwong : August 1st, 2024-15:08
Most disappointing for me was the Voutilainen Observatoir, so beautiful but when I finally got to hold one it was so tiny... and I know that's a traditional size so it's not the watch, it just made me feel like I needed to go on a diet! 😭

 On the plus side, with the trend towards smaller watches there are lots of options if you can and want to go bigger. I like my watches in the 42-44mm range so I'm with you on the Principia case wearing small. Some of my favorite big watches:

Staying with Gronefeld I really like the Parallax Tourbillon sized case, totally different style/design from the Remontoir but fit my wrist a lot better and definitely had presence.


I like the De Bethune suggestion, most of the De Bethunes are on the larger size so they've all been designed accordingly. The DB25 lugs are down turned a bit, the DB28 lugs articulate, you can go any size you want in De Bethune and have the wrist presence of a larger size watch but the wrist fit of something much smaller... and the way the lugs look is amazing from all angles....



1916 has a GF S1 available and that is one step up in size to 41.5mm. While not that much bigger its a noticeable step up from the Gronefeld in wrist presence. What I really like are the traditional 43mm cased watches from Greubel, 1916 has a Vision tourbillon in that case and there have been other movements as well in that rough case size, some thicker than others, and I think those all have great presence. For some reason the convexe watches don't fit me that well, even the new smaller ones, those need to be tried on for fit irl imo.



Similar to the GF above, the FB watches are a really nice (larger) size. Round, octagonal, whatever I think they all wear well though I did think the octagonal case wore smaller than I expected, I prefer the FB2 round case options. 

And of course there's everything from MB&F. Kinda like the De Bethune, they make the lugs work for all their watches but unlike the De Bethune, the worry is less fit on the wrist and more catching pockets/door frames, etc cause they can be real tall... but that's part of the appeal, truly 3d design





Only issue with the Ferdinand...

 
 By: m2 : August 1st, 2024-15:15
They will lose a ton on secondary and there's no way to buy one used, since they never seem to pop up. So the other options will have an exponentially lower cost of ownership if you're buying used like OP is?
IE if I buy a Logical1 for ~$120k and get bored, maybe I lose $10k. If I buy a Ferdinand Berthoud new, I am losing $50,000+. A friend of mine has one and they are exceptional watches of course, but not being able to go preowned for one turns me off personally as I'm a bit too much of a watch hoe.

Agreed! I'm hoping the FB depreciation will be devastating so I've been looking and haven't seen anything come up on the pre-owned market so far.

 
 By: Fastwong : August 1st, 2024-15:33

Yeah same.

 
 By: m2 : August 1st, 2024-16:45
It's nice they are owned by Chopard. All the benefits of being independent without any of the drawbacks IMO.

But if they are never popping up

 
 By: Watch Commission : August 1st, 2024-18:26
and there are none for sale, are they really losing money?

I would assume so given almost no independents sell at a premium and the wait is not long for FB

 
 By: m2 : August 1st, 2024-18:27
When a brand does sell at a premium it's because its unobtanium.

True! Just wishful thinking / dreaming for now 🤣

 
 By: Fastwong : August 1st, 2024-19:09

Some of these are great...

 
 By: mdg : August 1st, 2024-15:19
...especially the FB, but way out of his price range.

Maybe new but market pricing today means the Gronefeld Remontoire, Greubel S1, MB&F HM9 are all in the $100k-$150k range. FB3 msrp new is in there, FB2 preowned is yet to be seen... but good point on the dress watch - updated pic

 
 By: Fastwong : August 1st, 2024-15:31
GF vision tourbillon not too crazy and the toubillon is in the same spot as the Gronefeld remontoire smile




I took 'low sixes' in the original post to mean $60k...maybe I misinterpreted that?

 
 By: mdg : August 1st, 2024-16:58

Yeah, I was confused by that too. Gronefeld Remontoire is over $100k so I figured we're talking under $150k?

 
 By: Fastwong : August 1st, 2024-17:26
Remontoire price at double MSRP is a little crazy imo, I'd rather spend $100k on a MSRP $200k watch than $100k on a $50k watch...

100-150k

 
 By: Watch Commission : August 1st, 2024-18:24
I believe in Grönefeld, I think they're going to continue to put out cool watches. But I don't buy watches as investments. But by the same token, I am happy to spend that amount of money on three or four very cool watches... smile

100-150K

 
 By: Watch Commission : August 1st, 2024-18:22
But happy to spend that on several less expensive cool watches... Or not at all.

Thanks...my misunderstanding...low 6 figures.

 
 By: mdg : August 1st, 2024-18:27
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