Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin’s Quai de l’Ile was an adventurous new line for the brand when it was introduced back in 2008, breaking it away from its more conservative offerings in the Patrimony collection. It was a watch that struck a chord with me, and I have written a few articles about it, including one in-depth review in which I made a case for the design being the logical culmination of a number of trends in Vacheron Constantin’s modern history.

vacheron.watchprosite.com

I also made it a point to add one to my collection, choosing the palladium Date model for my own wrist:

It was a watch I really enjoyed owning and wearing, especially after I put it on a gray alligator strap.

Despite my personal enthusiasm for the Quai de l’Ile collection, it doesn’t seem to generate much buzz on this or any of the Vacheron Constantin dedicated watch forums, nor does it seem to be one of the better selling collections for the brand. My musings here today, studded with fresh photographs of the rose gold Quai de l’Ile Date, are to speculate on why this might be so.

The Market

Vacheron Constantin launched the Quai de l’Ile collection just as the economic crisis was entering its panic phase, with the collapse of Lehman Brothers and the teetering of Fannie Mae, Freddie Mac, and AIG. The loss of confidence in the financial markets and subsequent recession did not make for a good backdrop for the launch of a new and boldly designed luxury wristwatch, which is an entirely discretionary purchase (as much as I “need” to get still another Overseas onto my wrist). Was an adventurous design stillborn in a world that went more conservative?

Another way to look at this, however, is to think that my expectations were not in realistic for the line. While Vacheron Constantin keeps its production numbers close to the vest, I have heard from Breguet that their Tradition collection, a spiritual cousin to Vacheron Constantin’s Quai de l’Ile, represents less than 5% of units delivered.

The Watch

Perhaps wristwatch collectors, or at least Vacheron Constantin collectors, were not willing to follow to where the designers wanted to take them. While the watch’s modular case design allows for the client to order it in a number of different configurations, mixing and matching titanium, palladium, and rose gold, along with different darkness levels to the movement under the dial to suit one’s taste, this might not be something that collectors want to do, preferring either to take it stock from a dealer’s showcase or to go all out with a truly bespoke piece from Vacheron Constantin’s Atelier Cabinotier.

The sapphire dials of the original design might have been too adventurous for most collector’s taste, yet when the new solid dials started to appear in 2011 there was no upsurge of interest in the collection. Ditto for the introduction of Vacheron Constantin’s first annual calendar complication in the Quai de l’Ile.

Still, there is a lot to appreciate about the Quai de l’Ile. The design and finishing on the case is outstanding, and it has a wonderful presence on the wrist. I found that it accompanied me flawlessly no matter how dressed up or down I was. It was a nice counterpoint in a collection that had consisted of a lot of dress watches as well as luxury sport watches. 

The Value

Related to the market is the fact that the value of the Quai de l’Ile is set at a material premium to other watches with the same movements. At the time of this writing, a Patrimony Contemporaine automatic with date, reference 85180, in rose gold has a retail value of $26,500. The rose gold Quai de l’Ile Date has a retail value of $40,900. It seems only natural that prospective purchasers are going to have to justify to themselves both that the Quai de l’Ile delivers on the the $14,400 premium to the Contemporaine  and that it competes well with all of all the other $40,000 watches out there. This is such a personal decision.

I would appreciate it if readers will chime in on this matter. Do you like the Quai de l’Ile in and of itself? Do you think it represents good value for the price?

Bill

VC Forum Moderator

The fact that it was launched in 2008, when the crisis started doesn't explain all: There were watches introduced at the same time which were great hits.

No, I think we are far from the VC roots. Some ideas were good, especially when VC offered th possibility to choose between different possiblilities to personalize the Watch, for example.

But it is way too expensive for what it is.

Best,

Nicolas

What I like about the QDIs are the retrograde annual calendar and day-date-PR models, but the size is way too big for me, and the case design is not my taste.  As mentioned, the rotor is too simple, and will better fit a luxury sporty model.

I would love VC to introduce some automatic annual calendar or automatic date-day-PR models in the coming years?

 Best

 Stan

I have definitely warmed up to the Quai de l'Ile since it was first introduced.  I believe it was introduced at around the same time as the American 1921, and I was clearly distracted by the 1921 at the expense of almost every other watch.  ;-)

I have no expertise in the matter, so I cannot really comment on why the QDI does or does not do well for VC.  The personalization aspect of the QDI never really appealed to me.  It is no secret that, for the most part, I love VC's designs, both vintage and modern, so I really do not see the need to insert myself into the design process by choosing metal combinations and colors, etc.  I would rather leave that up to the professionals -- and having met Vincent Kauffmann and his fabulous design team, I am very comfortable with their designing any watches I might wear. 

Like Alex, I much prefer the open dials over the solid dials in the QDI range. I felt that with the introduction of the solid dials, the line lost a bit of its edge and perhaps a defining design element.  In the original generation, there were so many details to love about the QDI.  The case architecture is gorgeous.  I could stare at the case of a QDI all day.  The transparent dial provides so much to look at and admire AND you get a view onto the top level of the movement, which is rare for a VC and worth the price of admission. I love the movement family deployed in the QDI and especially the treatment of the rotor. The QDI definitely possesses a lot of VC's DNA, but it is a watch that must be discovered. I am not sure it is easy to recognize it as a VC with only casual observation.

I do know that on the occasions when I have had a chance to try one on, I have felt that the QDI did not quite fit my wrist perfectly. But that is a very personal matter.  I have definitely moved downward in watch sizes over the past several years. I am very comfortable with an Overseas on my wrist as well as a 36mm Historiques 1955, but I find the "new" Malte watches too big for my wrist.  As I said, this is totally personal.

Price and relative value may be an issue.  In the price range of the QDI one finds some really interesting and unique offerings from VC, models that are perhaps not as avant garde as the QDI and that might more clearly be identified as VC watches.  I think of any one of the watches in the Historiques line, for instance. In fact, I have made those choices over the QDI in the past, and probably will again in the future.  As you already pointed out, one could get a Patrimony or Traditionelle with a comparable or even the same movement at a better price and have a very beautiful timepiece on the wrist for less money. The Patrimony and Traditionelle watches are safer bets long-term when considering what will look good 10, 20 or 30 years from now.

All that said, the QDI, particularly the first generation with open dials, is a gorgeous and bold watch that I would not mind having in my collection.  I wonder if the QDI will be better appreciated by collectors some years from now especially if the line is discontinued. 

Best,

respo

I agree with what many have already said.  When I first saw pictures and read the description I was excited to see it in the metal.  Interesting case shape and transparent dial. Young and sporty.  I expected a steel / titanium or all titanium model and with an entry level price point.  A watch to bring the next generation to VC. It also seemed to be a response to the rise of Panerai and other large, masculine watches (not forgetting the overseas line).  Anyway, as soon as I learned the pricing it fell off my radar. I did look at them when they hit the boutiques, but they didn't move me like the 1921 or the idea of an overseas with an in house movement and a redesigned dial.

I wouldn't be surprised if the first generation watches are sought after someday as they couldn't have made very many. I also applaud VC for trying something. 

There are many versions that anyone can prefer (palladium and transparent dial for me).
The design is gorgeous, it reminds me Richard Mille but less sporty and much more luxurious.

I think VC has done kind of independant wathc here and imho succeeded what they could'nt completely achieve with the overseas, put a watch that has a strong personnality outside the classic range, like AP with the Royal Oak and Patek with the Nautilus.

just my 2 cents

François