Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin has the practice of announcing and releasing new watches separate from  SIHH, which takes place every January. A highlight of their 2012 novelties was the Patrimony Traditionnelle Self-Winding, reference 43075/000R-9737, which was introduced in October, 2012.


The Patrimony Traditionnelle collection consists of a broad range of watches, from high complications like the Calibre 2755 ( with Perpetual Calendar, Minute Repeater, Tourbillon) to the mid-complications (World Time and Chronograph), to the simple, like this watch and the base Patrimony Traditionnelle with manual winding calibre 4400. All are united by the round case shape, with lateral step which extends to the lugs, and with knurling on the case back:


Dials are distinguished by Dauphine hands with a mix of frosted and polished surfaces for easy legibility, opaline finish with applied hour markers, and minute track in a differing hue.

The dimensions of the Patrimony Traditionnelle Self-Winding are a 41 mm diameter with a slim 7 mm height, giving the watch a low profile on the wrist:


This slimness is due to the ultra thin automatic calibre 1120 that powers the watch.


The 1120 is a legendary calibre that Jaeger LeCoultre developed for the exclusive use of Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet (with Patek Philippe using the movement briefly in the early 1970’s). With a thickness of 2.45 mm it was the thinnest automatic movement in production, and it continues to this day to be a wonderful engine for complications, having powered the Mercator, Heure Sautante, Saltarello, and Perpetual Calendar watches.

The 1120 was originally designed to use a free-sprung Gyromax balance, and VC employed it this way for many years, but in the 1980’s and 1990’s, the brand got away from this and used a microscrew regulator to adjust the timekeeping, a less elegant, but economical, solution.

At SIHH 2010, Vacheron Constantin reintroduced the Gyromax balance in the 1120 for the Historiques 1968, though the movement remained hidden behind a solid case back. In 2011, Vacheron Constantin introduced the Patrimony Contemporaine Perpetual Calendar:

and the Patrimony Contemporaine Self-Winding Excellence Platine:


both of which use the 1120. The Patrimony Traditionnelle continues this redeployment of the 1120 in Vacheron Constantin watches. The openworked rotor, with Maltese Cross decoration, is both beautiful and always allows for a full view of the architecture of this classic movement. Vacheron Constantin proudly proclaims that the movement is stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva.





With the Patrimony Traditionnelle Self-Winding and also the manual winding Patrimony Contemporaine, Vacheron Constantin has cornered the market on elegant two-hand watches that fulfill today’s watch collectors preference for watches 38 mm and larger. Any flaws in design and execution of the case and dial are amplified when looking at the minimalistic display of simply the hours and minutes.  These watches are flawless. That Vacheron Constantin has succeeded superlatively well with these two models is a testament to their excellence in paying attention to all the details that go into making a fine watch. Bravo!

Bill Lind
VC Forum Moderator

 

While some may argue that the size is too big or too small, as you noted, VC also offers other simple two- and three-hand options from 36mm to 42mm that are also perfect. 

But the PT Self-Winding is special for including the cal. 1120.  VC just does not make a lot of watches with the cal. 1120, and who knows how long they will continue to be able to use this movement.  I love the design of the rotor on the current-production 1120s.  It is just beautiful -- different from that on the old Saltarellos and Audobon series pieces, but now once again equipped with the Gyromax balance and to my eye equally lovely and definitely more modern looking. 

Were I choosing a current-production VC with the cal. 1120, however, my choice would remain the Historiques Ultra-fines 1968.  The price difference between the 1968 and the PT Self-Winding is not all that significant, I think.  The 1968 has the disadvantage of a solid caseback, and I can certainly understand that ideally one wants to be able to see that beautiful movement.  And yet, the 1968, for me, is just a little more perfect.  ;-)

I do wonder if VC will offer the PT Self-Winding in white gold at some point not too long from now (perhaps next SIHH?) -- I think that would be a killer option.

Thanks for this review.  Drooling over the PT Self-Winding is a perfect way to end the week.

 

Best,

respo

 

 

 

there are so many desirable watches with the 1120, both simple and complicated. I'm a round guy, your prefer form. I would expect a white gold model to come to market in a year or so.

Bill

Really appreciated the informative part about the movements, its JLC origins, and the comment about the change from Gyromax to microscrew.  

The manual winding one is also a beauty:

Bill

Nice photo, Bill! 

I could honestly just keep collecting time-only Vacherons and be very, very happy.  It never ceases to amaze me how VC can make "simple" 0-, 1-, 2- and 3-hand time-only watches so varied and so compelling. 

Best,

respo

automatique mouvement there is today but why use this caliber in an "oversized" case? Especially if you are making it available with a see through sapphire back window? No, in my opinion, Vacheron Constantin should develop mouvement suited to their design. For me, anyway, I will go for the manual caliber 4400 in the gorgeous Patrimony Traditionnelle platinum 38mm...JUST PERFECT!
Cheers. The Pope Down Under.

I should check in with the other forums on movement sizes in relation to case size. Do people criticize Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet along the same lines? I hear this with regards to VC all the time and find it curious. VC's putting the 1120 in a 41 mm case is not any different than Panerai putting one of their 13-3/4 linge movements in a 44 mm case. No one seems to give them grief about this.

Bill

Good point.  My sense is that VC is judged more critically on this issue than the other brands in spite of the fact that one could easily find examples of this in every one of the top non-independent brands (maybe Lange could be the exception in this regard, but I am not as familiar with that brand). 

But I have grown tired of this debate. 

however, if the mouvement is "small" perhaps it would be better not to have a see through back. For example I really like the GP Chronagraph 1966 but to have put such a small mouvement and a see through back in that largish case, turns me off. Just my taste.

Cheers, Francois

having a sapphire case back adds to a watch, if at all, for the watch market at large? I can't really say that I care that the manual winding Patrimony Contemporaine (reference 81180) have solid case backs. As much as I like the looks and finishing on the calibre 1400, I don't need to see it daily, it at all. After all, what I live with daily is the dial and case.

FWIW, I really like the GP 1966 Chronograph as well. And (de gustibus .....) the sapphire case back doesn't bother me one bit.

Bill

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Thank you for the review, Bill.

I'm glad you enjoyed the review.

Bill

Thx for a brief review of these marvellous pieces