Vacheron Constantin

Soon I will treat myself with a new VC automatic in WG. I am now comparing three models:
- Royal 1907 (not the Limited Edition, this one has the 12 in black)
- Patrimony Traditionelle Date,
- Patrimony Contemporaine Date.

As I cannot compare them in the same shop, I ask your opinion.
> What is your favorite VC automatic and why?
> Is one of them wearing more comfortable than the others?
> Is their comfort enhanced by a folding clasp?
> Are there significant differences between the movements?
> Is my understanding correct that prices of these watches are between 13-15 k in Euro?

Of the three I only have admired the Patrimony Contemporaine in RG. This is a 40 mm watch that I found incredibly beautiful and comfortable on the wrist. As I am used in wearing 38 mm watches, I found it a bit large at first, but because its pleasing fit, I have no problems with its size. I know the other two watches only from the internet and from the pictures I prefer the design of the Royal (a date is not a must have for me).

My present watches are Patek Aquanaut 5165 and Chopard Qualité Fleurier (WG, black dial).

Very interested in your reactions.

Thanks. Wilco

Hi Wilco,

All three watches on your shortlist are outstanding. All are based on VC's in-house automatic caliber, though with minor differences between them.

I don't have much information on the white gold Chronometer Royal 1907 as it is not available in the North American market. I have handled the rose gold model and I think that the enamel dial is spectacular, and VC submits the movements for COSC approval. The only downside is the significant premium in price when compared with the other watches you are considering. The Chronometer Royal is way above the range you gave in your post while the other two watches are in that range.

The Patrimony Traditionnelle Self-Winding with Date is a favorite of mine (I wrote an in-depth review of it a while ago).  I adore the case for the step along the sides and lugs, and the dial for its unusual layout.

The Patrimony Contemporaine is the most conservative of the three watches under consideration (and I also think you should consider the non-date version of the same watch - Ref 86180 - only recently discontinued so they are probably still available in the dealer channels). It looks great now and I think it will look great in 50 years.

I would be happy with any of these watches on my wrist. FWIW,  My first choice for purchase would be the Traditionnelle. All come on the tang buckle, which is comfortable. I don't think the folding buckle offers any advantages in terms of comfort.

Please let us know what you ultimately decide to purchase.

 

Bill

 

Bill,

Thank you for sharing your knowledge with me.

About the Chronometer Royal 1907: I checked and, unfortunately, there is only the RG version. What a pity. Also unfortunately, this watch is - although not a limited edition - about twice as expensive as the other two. How can that be? Pricing in luxury watches seems to me rather unclear.
Anyway, things are like they are. 23 to 25k for a watch is just too much for me.

Happily, I don't regard the two remaining options as 2nd choice. Choosing between the Contemporaine and the Traditionnelle is such a luxury! Although both look very very fine to me, I find the design of the Contemporaine just a tad more timeless and elegant. Yes, I agree with you, the Contemporaine will probably look great for a long time to come.
Fortunately, I just received a message of my dealer that he can show me both models in WG within a week or two. Then I will let you know my decision and first experiences.

Thanks again. Wilco

Regarding the premium pricing of the Chronometer Royal 1907, the two main factors are the extra care that goes into ensuring that the watch achieves chronometer certification and the manufacturing of the enamel dial, which is time consuming and fraut with failure. The base dial is white gold and even the arabic numbers and Vacheron Constantin Geneve signature are made from enamel, rather than printed laquer (as you'd see in the also fine Jaquet Droz enamel dial watches).

I personally think the premium price ensures that the Chronometer Royal 1907 will remain a rare watch.

 

Bill

I found myself in Geneva recently and visited the VC boutique (currently at a temporary location as I believe the VC building on the "island" is being refurbished) to compare the automatic versions of the Patrimony Contemporaine and Traditionnelle.

I had seen them both on the internet and in the VC catalogue and my preference at this stage was for the Traditionelle self-winding. I had also seen on the website that a yellow gold version is now being produced and I was really interested to see it.

They didn't have the yellow gold versions in stock but brought out RG versions of both (87172/000R-9302 and 85150/000R-9248). I tried on the Contemporaine and I just can't express in words the beauty of it, not just in appearance but also in terms of comfort and overall presence. The traditional buckle clasp was very comfortable. I just don't think this model could be improved in terms of comfort, balance and appearance. One thing I found very different from press photos was that the dial seemed almost beige in colour rather than white as it appears in pictures.

I then tried on the Traditionnelle. At 38mm, I was expecting it to be more comfortable as this is the size I generally prefer. But while the Contemporaine felt light and almost merged into the form of my wrist, the Traditionnelle felt heavier (even though off the wrist they felt the same weight) and it was definitely thicker so I actually prefered the size of the Contemporaine which surprised me. Also, seeing the Traditionnelle in the flesh, I felt the dial layout was not balanced (obviously just my personal view- don't get me wrong it is an absolutely stunning watch) and the bottom half seemed very empty compared to the top half.

Comparing them both, as you can tell, my preference was for the Contemporaine and I am now hoping to try a yellow gold Contemporaine and if the dial on that model (85180/000J-9231) appears more white as in the photos, I think my decision will be made. But I have to say that some may find the classic appearance of the Contemporaine less inspiring than the Traditionnelle. For example, the detail of the hands on the Traditionnelle is wonderful while the Contemporaine has "just" plain hands.

You guys all have such tremendous collections but to a novice like myself, hoping to graduate to high end in the near future from the ranks of Oris, Longines and Omega, I have never experienced such quality even taking account of a wonderful JLC Master Calendar which I tried on last year. I definitely feel that when I buy "the" dress watch for those special occasions in life it will come from those wonderful people who have learned a thing or two about watchmaking since 1755! I am hooked...

I hope my post hasn't sent you all to sleep and apologise if my comments are below the calibre of those more expert than me in the world of VC.

 

Robbo,

Thank you for your very clear written experience. For me, this is interesting information. Designwise, I agree with you all the way. The design of the Traditionelle seems to be out of balance, indeed. For your information: the Contemporaine handwinder fits even a tiny bit better than the automatic, just enough to be noticed. And that beige dial (blond, as I call it) in the RG version is absolutley stunning. Give it time. I don't care for the yellow gold version. I don't think I need to wait a couple weeks for the arrival of the Traditionelle at my dealers. Even if it should fit my arm as comfortably as the Contemporaine (which is not to be expected), it still looks like a watch with an unfinished design. So, unless something else comes on my way, it is going to be a Contemporaine, and possibly the handwinder. Less is more. I give it two weeks and then make my decision.
Thanks again, Robbo and Bill.

Regards. Wilco

you also consider any manual VCs?

cheers

... that time and I still do. The fun thing about researching for buying something expensive and luxurous as a watch is that if one keeps having an open mind new information keeps coming up. So much so that I postponed my bying decision until I have the idea that I can make a very well informed decision. The more I look into the matter of luxury watches the more I am intrigued in simple handwinders. At this moment I am studying Lange handwinders, particularly the Richard Lange. I hope to have this watch in my hands next week. I think - in the end - I have to choose between purity and classical design like VC and Patek vs perfection in execution like Lange. I am not in a hurry anymore. Anticipatory pleasure is far too much fun now. And I know it ends after I payed my money. I even raised my budget.
What is your opinion about handwinders, PP?

I prefer manual winders.....

the pleasure of winding them by hand.....

also I think that they are more accurate than automatic ones....
although some might debate this....

Difficult choices make the hunt even more enjoyable....

please let us know what you decide....

cheers

... please, tell me, what are your favourite manuals?
Automatics mostly don't feel so effortlessly. The expensive handwinders I 'worked' were very pleasurable indeed.
About a difference in accuracy, I don't know, but I believe your statement. The hunt goes on ...

however the VC Patrimony has a very elegant sound...

cheers

... only I don't think it is as handsome as its older manual brother, the Contemporaine.
On the other hand, the manual Patrimony has this new 4400 movement, which looks like a step up from the 1400.
Significant longer power reserve and also more accurate, mmm. And also bigger. And it sounds nice too, eh?
The Contemporaine with its 40 mm size before this litlle 1400 movement seems like a western saloon, a bit out of balance, so to say.

Hey, and what do I see? This new 4400 movement sits also in this very, very, very attractive and weird manual thing, the American 1921.
I love it! A watch with humor. It reminds me of some Jules Audemars watches. Oh yes, this is the one I think. I'm in love.
Thank you Mr Pink, for playing cupid. Oh and Mr Pink? Have you handled this one? And does it look in reality just as great as on the pictures?

the movement is not much to see.. hence the solid back....

however it is truly gorgeous, on of my favourite watches and very comfortable to wear....

I am trying to upload a wrist photo of it but the system does not let me....



cheers

cheers

... in WG and an opal white dial, if I can trust my eyes. And it gives the time too!
Do you wear it often? And do you have other manuals that are worth mentioning?

I adore VC's manual winding watches. They are a pleasure to wind every day. The caliber 1400 is beautfully designed and finished, but it is only 20 mm in diameter. VC did well to put a solid case back on the Contemporaine.

The 4400 is also great, and the 1921 is a spectacular watch. Your comment about it's "humor" is dead on, and I hold very dear those watches that have an element of whimsy about them (vintage VC's with their fancy lugs have that quality too). I've mentioned before that there is a material premium in price for the 1921 compared with the Patrimony Traditionnelle with the 4400 caliber. I would gladly pay it for the 1921. Here is my wristshot:

Bill

I have to rebuild the watch account after this JDN business. It is on my shortlist along with the QDI.

 

Bill

the two are you going to choose first?



cheers

just because it is such a contrast to most of the classically beautiful VC's I have owned. If I didn't have such experience I'm sure I would go for the 1921.

Bill

I should hurry my review....



cheers

While your impressions of your watch are still fresh. Do you ever see yourself getting back into a QDI?

 

Bill

one never knows...

I will clarify in my review which will be posted soon...

cheers

there is nothing like having to write things down to help clarify exactly how one feels about something.

Bill

 

wears a watch on the right wrist i can see how this watch is not suited for me...

most of my watches are manuals.....

but one at the time....



cheers

... your comments. And Bill, I love the picture of the 1921 on your wrist. I suits you well. And I think it will suit me well also.
Next week my hunt starts to see it live in a shop. I rearranged my budget in preparation.
Thanks again.

and please let us know...



Cheers

... it is a little thicker than the manual wind - which I like (but it is still a slim watch).

It is Auto - which I like (I find the winding crown too small - personally)

It is extemely comfortable on the wrist, very understated, but some time with it and you appreciate more and more its beauty and elegance.

There - my view!

The RG is equally, if not more so, beautiful.