Vacheron Constantin

This is my first ‘serious’ post – as a tribute to my favorite time piece, as you can probably tell from my Avatar.

To mark the 100^th anniversary of Vacheron Constantin’s creation of the first observatory pocket watch in 1907, VC in 2007 introduced among its ‘Historique’ line a beautiful time piece called Chronometre Royal 1907.

The first Chronometre Royal was in fact produced as an exceptionally reliable, elegant and precise pocket watch for the hot and humid South American market at that time. Believe it or not, VC pulled off a well-thought-out marketing scheme – interested collectors had to become members of a club, paying a monthly sum for a year, before they could receive their coveted chronometer. Ironically, the posters for the watch mentioned an award given to Vacheron Constantin at the 1906 Milan competition…for a completely different watch!

The wrist watch version was introduced in 1953 based on caliber 453 which encompassed a stop second feature for setting time accurately. In 1962, the 1072/1 automatic movement was adopted and since then, over 20 models, always in very small series, were introduced. At one point, there was even a digression from the round case when the watch was made in stainless steel. Among the most sought-after models was the yellow-gold wrist watch version produced between 1953 and 1962, which bore the Geneva Quality Mark and was delivered with its Observatory Bulletin de Marche.

This exclusive centenary piece sets a distinguished milestone for the historic brand. The watch is housed in a pink gold case with a thin bezel. Production is limited to 100 pieces. Featuring hand-painted Arabic Index including the figure “12” in eye-catching burgundy red, an outer-minute circle and white Grand Feu enamel, this extraordinary combination gives the watch a unique and classy appearance. Many of the characteristics of the original model are retained - the pear-shaped yellow gold hands and the inscription of the words “Chronometre Royal Vacheron Constantin Geneve” spelt out in the form of an arc, as per the original trademark registered on May 28, 1907.

Specifications -

Reference                        :        86122/000R – 9286

Case                                :       18-carat pink gold, 39 mm. in diameter

Movement                       :        2460SCC self-winding caliber

Indications                       :        Central hours, minutes and seconds

Power Reserve                 :       40 hours

Certification                     :        Hallmark of Geneva

                                               C. O. S. C.

Back                               :        Sapphire glass

Vibration                         :        28,800/hour

Water Resistance             :        3 ATM (30 meters)

Strap                              :        Hand-sewn brown alligator leather

Clasp                              :        Classic 18-carat pink gold buckle

                                                                              Polished half-Maltese cross

Entirely hand-crafted, each enamel dial requires five to seven firings in the oven at temperatures of close to 800 degrees Celsius. The result is a piece that will resist oxidization and hold its stability for (hopefully) another 100 years. The 2460SCC movement is built on VC’s proprietary 2450 movement that was created ever since ETA first announced its intention to stop supplying movements to brands outside the Swatch Group. Lubrication is kept to a minimal as ceramic ball-bearings are used in the rotation of oscillating weight.

The watch is accompanied by a certificate signed jointly by CEO Juan-Carlos Torres and the Production Manager.

Here are some close-up pictures to illustrate the immaculate finishing, the lugs, strap, crown and the renowned Maltese buckle.

One must not forget the box...

Finally, the watch feels just 'about right' on the wrist. It is a dressy watch, although I would not mind wearing it on casual occasions.

Hope you enjoyed the pictures.

Merry X'mas to you all!

Sam

Thank you for sharing the beautiful photos and a background of the CR.

It is a very simple watch but full of impressive details.  The enamel dial is in itself something to marvel.  Of course there is also the very clean case design and the beautiful in-house movement.

Personally, I believe the development of the in-house movement is not directly affected by the Swatch-ETA announcement as VC does not use ETA-based movements.  Maybe you are referring to the chronograph movement under development to replace the Lemania-based movement for VC's high-end chronographs (I am not sure about the future of F. Piguet movements supplied for the Overseas).

Enjoy your watch in good health.

Best regards,

Kazumi

and great pictures too!  Interesting how VC has alternated between formal and informal designs for the Chronometre Royal family.  I'd say this latest leans more towards the formal style but, as you said, can also be worn casually.

As far as white gold CR's, this is my own personal joy:

GO's Meisen and found it a cut above....

Sam

Excellent write up! Thanks Sam.

V C boutique of Hong Kong just got a problem with a watch they sold. It was a mechanical defect of the said watch. It ended up the customer demanded & got his money back.  The news was posted in major Hong Kong press.This article will surely give a good support to the mechanical aspect of the brand.

Merry Christmas & a prosperous 2009 to all!

I heard about the incident but I had my watch for over a year now - never have any problem with the mechanics...I am not worried.

Merry X'mas and Happy New Year to you too.

Sam

You are right - a manual-winding caliber is better. Also, the present crown is a bit small and therefore difficult to wind if we decide to do it manually. I presume design overrules functionality...

Sam 

Your pictures really brought out the beauty in that watch.  Its really one of my favorites in recent years.  In fact, the only thing I'm not sure if I like is the design of the rotor...but I'm sure I could learn to love it after a few hours on my wrist.  Thanks again for the great review and fantastic pictures.

Best regards,

Dino

But they have been talking about it for over a year now and I have yet to see some action.

Secondly, judging from how the latest VC models (e.g. the Quai de I'lle) are priced, I doubt if the non-limited edition is going to be priced cheaply.

Thirdly, the LE is only 'trading' at its original retail price (though there aren't many benchmarks available). In other words, it has not appreciated in value. The true test is what it will be worth in say, 10 or 20 years' time...