Vacheron Constantin

For me, the FiftySix collection and more precisely the entry level watch are not good news for Vacheron.

To be honest, it is not a question of quality of these watches. I find them uninspired but they are after all well made.

Having said that, the problem is related to the strategy and image of the brand.

Believe it or not but TWO years after having explained to us, thanks to the new Overseas collection, that Vacheron will focus on in-house movements with the Geneva Seal and so on, the brand does the oppositive with this entry level watch. It is a lack of consistency.

The problem is when a brand of this level introduces a watch with a price much lower than usually proposed, we are surprised and a lot of questions are coming to our minds. Is Vacheron not performing well? Why this change of strategy? Is it not risky for the value of the brand?

On top of that, I found very unclear the communication about the caliber which powers the watch. OK, it is a Richemont movement (like Baume & Mercier...) but I think it would have been better to explain that it is an enhanced Cartier 1904MC. To be at least transparent with customers.

If I add that I found that VC introduced too many full calendar pieces within a few months, I do think that Vacheron needs to find again a clear path and strategy.

We don't have to forget that when the watches are really desirable, the prices become less problematic.

By introducing this watch, Vacheron brings the doubt in my mind.

I have a lot of respect for Vacheron who is one of my fav brands. They have great and talented people, a manufacture with huge potential. It is the reason why I have great expectations for/from them.

Thanks for the post Patrick.

Fx

 

 

It's definitely an unexpected strategy for Vacheron Constantin.  Such a high end brand to debut such an accessible timepiece. 

I look forward to seeing how the piece is received by the public in a few months time! 

Thanks again for posting Fx!  Always great to read your words!

First of all, I am a new watch collector and although I know the importance of VC on the matchmaking history and its greatness I have to confess I am not a conoceur of the Brand. That been said, i have to say I really love the look on the watch, the grey dial and the grey strap with a case design, for me it is really beautiful, the date window might seem too centered and small for most of the people but it is so small (as someone said in here) that for me it doesn’t jump as a mistake.  I felt tempted to buy it specially to own a VC at that Price for my collection, but as i read about the movement i rather wait a while and save some more to buy a “complete” VC it is not THAT MUCH the difference. For me it is funny how much blogs and watch experts as this forum and hodinkee talk so good about this watch but the public and collectors not that much. As if it was a sales strategy i don’t know, but VC is in it right to try it. Great article though!!!

Generally the media is very positive about this watch.  But, the media is predominantly written by paid professional writers, the majority of whom are not personally watch collectors or avid watch lovers. 

Here, on PuristSPro, we try to take a more balanced approach.  Everyone here; member, moderator, editor, writer, or other; are among the more discriminating and most selective group of any kind online.  Thus, very little gets past the readers on PuristSPro.  Thus, we have to take less of a "optimistic" editorial standpoint and a more "balanced" standpoint.  You'll notice my article is one of the few that points out the shortcomings of the movement.  You won't find that mentioned on most other mainstream sites. 

This watch, particularly the simplest model, is probably not the correct choice for the typical PuristSPro reader.  As we have higher expectations.  But the whole point of my article is more about how the market is shifting, the dynamics are changing, and the impact this watch will likely have on the market. 

Glad to have you with us on PuristSPro! 

Love the article, as you said it is actually very balance, I am learning already, looking to ve more selective. cheers

Yes, like the vast majority of our readers, you'd probably be considering something a little more upscale in the Vacheron Constantin collection!

Definitely be selective! You've got to LOVE IT. You can't just like it. Think, twenty years from now, when you have several timepieces, you want a collection of all winners that you'll want to wear. So I always buy watches with the thought in mind that I'll want to wear them decades from now.

you check out the steel Quai d L'Ile in any of the three colours. A very versatile design covering dress to casual, available for a 'realistic' price from ADs with a proper VC movement and Geneva Seal. If that is too large a piece, go for a classic Patrimony. Again looking around will result in a win for not much more than the 56.
Velociphile

That´s exactly was I ment, I rather wait and save a couple bucks more and get the Quai d L´lle (love your recommendation) or the HISTORIQUES TRIPLE CALENDARIO 1942 (love that watch, hope to see a review on that reference soon) the difference is not that much and you get the real deal. thanks

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I don't know of a review on that watch coming soon.  But I don't know that it's been ruled out neither!  

At the boutique. Just the steel date and the gold full calendar.

Impressions

1. Case design in the flesh is really really nicely done.
2 Dial and hands also.
3 date not so intrusive as I was expecting on the base model in reality
4 movement finish side by side quite clearly evidently better. Eg. The Geneva stripes roll in the light whereas the ValFleurier movement is dull in comparison.
5 movement archaicity aside, I like the full calendar, but at same price I can buy a 5146 from PP? That’s a bit silly, non?

Velociphile

Personally, I don't know why they still make calendar watches without "intelligence" like an annual or perpetual calendar.  I think it's downright misleading because the salespeople at Authorized Dealers aren't properly trained on it, I remember a decade ago being told a Vacheron Constantin Toledo was a Perpetual Calendar.  

...as you are foregoing the Geneva Seal and a proper VC movement...

Big B did say that, among a lot of other things such as new retail concept stores with certified pre-owned pieces.

Looking forward to the new line at AP!

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