Ulysse Nardin

A few weeks ago, Rolf Schnyder arrived in Singapore to present the 2010 collection from Ulysse Nardin first seen at Baselworld in March. click here to read an interview I did with Rolf in 2008. The 2010 collection is like UN collections of previous years. It contains a new Freak (the Diavolo), a remake of the perpetual calendar (El Toro), something for the Russian market (Shtandart) and an astronomical complication (Planet Earth desk clock).

Each of the major new releases will be explored in follow-up posts. The Moonstruck is included although it was launched in 2009. I did not manage to photograph the Planet Earth astronomical clock unfortunately.

- SJX

This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-05-29 23:12:20 This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-06-01 04:45:12 This message has been edited by AnthonyTsai on 2010-06-05 09:53:37

The Freak Diavolo is a departure from the original Freak. It is a flying tourbillon mounted on a rotating bridge that also holds the gear train of the watch. Therefore it has two significant differences from the original - the escapemen is a conventional lever escapement inside a flying tourbillon, and the rotating bridge is "flying" also as it is only anchored by a pinion on the dial and not on the crystal.

So in way it is less innovative than the original, since it is a mere flying tourbillon, yet it is still different from any other tourbillon out there, since the movement is similar in layout to the original Freak - the gear train and escapement sit on top of a giant mainspring.

A point of note, the hairspring and escape wheel are silicon and both are etched with "Ulysse Nardin".

Regardless of what exactly it is, a Freak or a tourbillon, it is no less than one expects from Ulysse Nardin and it looks especially good in this black and red guide.

NB: The watch in the photos is a prototype so it is in relatively poor condition and the finish is not of the standard on a production watch.

This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-05-29 22:59:16

for me... as I have a peculiar (I think) one piece a brand philosophy FOR NOW... and for the DIaviolo and the original Freak, the dilemma is even more pronounced as they are different but yet so similar... should one (me rather) abandon the original Freak for the Diavolo? The obvious answer is keep the Freak and get the Diavolo as well but the issue of funds come into play.

So would one abandon the Freak if the desire for the Diavolo is there and circumstances force having either one only?  For me, IF in this situation, I think I'd keep the Freak as it is the pioneer, Le Original, the Big Daddy that started it all and even inspired in some ways I suspect plus the fact that I love my Freak to bits.

Just curious what other Freak owners would do IF they could only have one or other.  (But the Diavolo looks ssssooooooo good!)

Great cover again as usual SJX!

Mike S...yes..the one and only driver of that name, bought a Diavolo...this is with his own money and volition.

 Errr..I too bought a Diavolo because it is really THAT good. It really is...we can sit over dinner and I will show and tell you. I am keeping my original Freak, the one you see on the cover of the UN book, yes sir..that is my watch.

The Diavolo is and should be built with this "old type" escapement, to be a contrast and to allow a certain perspecttive to the difficulties of the original Freak escapement, this allows the connoisseur to appreciate BOTH Freaks by owning both...seriously!

Forget about worrying about the funds...I too have the same limitations, and am biting the bullet!

it's either take both or keeping the original Freak.   

Still in love with the Blue Phantom, but would have an affair with the Devil, he he

 

Thanks for sharing.

 

 

Vte

The " normal Freak " and this Diavolo, as the last one is an evolution of the first one?

Thanks for the clarification on the escapement, SJX.

No more dual escapement like on the first series, but a flying tourbillon rotating on a caroussel, if I got it well?

Aesthetically, this balckened dial and the tourbillon on the minute hand are very appealing to me.

This is indeed a crazy watch!

Thanks for these gorgeous pictures.

Do you know when it will become available?

Best,

Nicolas

... I think the "Diavolo" is a great piece! Maybe it would not be my primary choice when it comes to puchase ONE Freak, because - as you said - in a few respects it is more conventional than the other Freaks. However, if I were a collector of UN watches, and had already a "pure" Freak, this would definitely be my next choice!

Regards,
Marcus

The Diavolo looks soooooo gooood!

No message body

This was actually shown at Baselworld 2009 but is worth mentioning anyway. Conceived by Ludwig Oechslin (who else?) in the grand tradition of astronomical watches like the Trilogy of Time, the Moonstruck models the movement of the moon and sun around the earth, displaying the moon phase from which the wearer can infer the state of the tides. After 100,000 years the Moonstruck will be off by a whole moon, i.e. showing a full moon instead of a new moon.

Like most other UN watches it is fairly large at 46 mm across. The pushers on the case are to adjust the hour hand backwards or forwards without affecting the minute hand, making it ideal for timezone adjustments while travelling.

 

The movement uses silicon for the hairspring and escape wheel. 500 pieces each will be made in gold and platinum.

Many more photos follow.

- SJX

This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-05-30 02:10:17 This message has been edited by Marcus Hanke on 2010-06-04 04:51:48

Beautiful watch.

 

Vte

If only it had a less agressive and bulky case...

What a dial!

What a combination of astronomical complications, too.

Someday, I will have to add an astronomical watch in my collection, and I think it will be an U.N.

Best,

Nicolas

This message has been edited by amanico on 2010-06-04 08:18:07

nt

No message body

The El Toro is the latest variant of the ingenious perpetual calendar movement first seen in the Perpetual Ludwig. It shares the same case as the Moonstruck, likewise the ceramic bezel and pushers. 500 each in rose gold and platinum.

Up close the dial is engaging due to the numerous details like exposed discs and blued screws, but overall it looks too busy. While I do not appreciate the aesthetics of the El Toro, the movement remains of the most clever perpetual calendars around, more than 10 years after its creation.

- SJX 

This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-05-30 02:09:31

of El Toro. I really like it. I think it is the best looking perpetual from UN. Great photos and report, SJX.

P.S. I am also a fan of the new Freak and the Moonstruck. Too many watches in my wish list for my wallet

...font at 12 and 6 when I first saw this piece, but now it's sort of growing on me.  It's not a shy design, but I am warming to it. 

Thanks for the great coverage, SJX!

Cheers,

Daos

... and I considered the dial too busy. However, on my wrist the impression was entirely different, and I think the "El Toro" is one of the most attractive perpetuals on the market altogether. Personally, I prefer it to the "Sonata Style" Perpetual, the Ludovico and of course the Quadrato. However, I still think my classic-style perpetual has more timeless elegance.

Regards,
Marcus

Russia is one of Ulysse-Nardin's largest markets so a good number of watches are specific to that country in one way or another. The St Petersburg egg was first presented with a Marine Chronometer some time ago, this version has inside a cloisonne dial San Marco wristwatch depicting the "Shtandart", a warship built by Peter the Great.

The egg is decorated in enamel, gold and diamonds, and set on a marble base. Each of the depictions on the egg represent a notabl building in St Petersburg.

UN is well known for its enamel dial watches, created by Michel Vermot and this set is a superb example of the art.

- SJX 

This message has been edited by SJX on 2010-05-29 23:34:36

... to the UN enamel reference list in the gallery.

Regards,
Marcus