Comments:
Challenges the new Zenith CEO needs to face - quickly and sustainably!
With the departure of Aldo Magada and the arrival of (interim) CEO Jean-Claude Biver, I believe it is high time for us to consider the areas needing significant improvement.
Zenith is a brand that almost exclusively relies on one single - albeit significant - asset: its famous El Primero movement. Sure, there are other highlights, such as the Elite movement, the gyroscopic escapement module, and the other watches in the Academy collection. However, I think these are relatively overshadowed by the El Primero and would have little standing on their own.
I fear that many collectors buy a Zenith because they want to own the famous movement, not necessarily a Zenith watch. And this, I presume, is a major impediment for the entire brand.
Zenith for me has always had a notion of technical perfection, performance and sophisticated restraint (a bit similar to the IWC of the past, just in la version française...), attributes that I affectionately love, and that I think bears tremendous potential for the brand to fill a distinct niche in a difficult market environment.
What needs to be done is, to hijack a very timely phase, make Zenith great again! Its a long row to hoe, and there are many irons in the fire::
1.) Present a holistic view on the essence of Zenith
Zenith in view is so much more than just the El Primero and a few pilot’s watches. Zenith, first and foremost, is a chronometric watchmaker, historically putting the timekeeping performance of its pieces at the helm of their efforts. The ample number of more than 2000 chronometric certifications attests to this endeavour.
(Snapshot showing the diversity of current Zenith watches (from top left to bottom right): Academy Christophe Colomb Grand Voyage, El Primero Tourbillon 2016, Heritage Pilot Type 20 GMT, El Primero 1969, Elite 6150, Elite Ladies)
Zenith also is a chronograph specialist. Sure, there is the El Primero as one of the most eminent examples, but it (i) is already almost half a century old and (ii) gives little room to transfer it into a credible upmarket movement.
Zenith also needs to come up with a convincing strategy regarding their tool watches, The current pilots models are all - very apropos - listed in the heritage collection. Which already implies that there is not a contemporary expression of this type of timekeeper.
What also is striking, to me at least, is the eminent gap between the upper mid-range to lower high end offerings of the Heritage, Elite and El Primero collections, and then the Academy haute horlogerie pieces. I believe that this gap is large enough to make the latter look like an afterthought, while offering insufficient goodwill trickled down far enough to the remainder of the watches.
If it were up to me, the ultra-top high end would not need to be continued. Marvellous watches without doubt, but not ‘Zeniths’.
Then, in connection with the range of watches there is the issue of the brand image Zenith wants to convey. Recently, the focus seems to be set on the ‘gentlemanly’ things - and in my view, this seems indeed be promising. Gentlemanliness, this implies adherence to a self-imposed code of conduct resting on highest human and cultural values. The quest for excellence and achievement, old-world curiosity, respect towards your fellow people, respect towards history. But also a sound distance to the latest fashion, the exesses, the vulgar and trendy.
Gentlemanliness is not tied to a market position, it can be found anywhere (I guess Longines’ ‘elegance is an attitude’ refers to the same notion). Gentlemanliness can be interpreted in different ways, nodding to tradition and innovation at the same point, represented in all cultures I could think of.
Gentlemanliness is is self-referring and needs no external validation. If that is what JCB recently alluded to in a very recent Tempus Fugit interview (“Zenith could be the ambassador of Zenith"), then a giant leap towards a coherent and credible Zenith message has been made. Watches speak for themselves!
Thus I personally think this ‘Gentlemanliness’ a very well chosen starting point. Fill it with ‘flesh’!
2.) Reinforce Zenith’s innovation potential
Being a technical brand, one which dedicated its technical capabilities to the advancement of chronometry, Zenith is all legitimation necessary to be at the forefront of new timekeeping technologies, particularly those aimed at rather large scale production.
Jean-Claude Biver has alluded to this in the past, when discussing the brand’s respective position and role in LVMH’s watchmaking portfolio. This needs to be fostered. Putting silicon parts in replacement of conventional parts is certainly not enough, as recent impressive constructions from Greubel Forsey, De Bethune, but also Ulysses Nardin or Girard Perregaux (to name a few examples closer to Zenith’s market range) demonstrate.
Zenith needs to assume the position as the audacious technology lab within LVMH. Under guidance of Thierry Nataf, it was the Defy collection which served that goal…
(The Zenith Defy Xtreme Zero G embodies both Zenith's technical prowess as well as its cutting edge aesthetic language the preveiled under the guidance of Thierry Nataf)
3.) Revive Zenith’s reputation of timekeeping excellence
I alluded already to the chronometric track record of the brand, which is probably without peer: a stunning number of 2333 chronometry awards were won by Zenith in its entire history, some of them still hold today, for example the 5 consecutive Neuchâtel Observatory chronometry prizes from 1950 to 1954.
(At the Zenith Basel booth, the brands displays its chronometer certificates on metals plates, just like a shield or armoured protection)
Some extremely desirable (and unique!) movements resulted from this, such as the marvellous Cal. 135, the Cal. 5011, but also the Cal. 707, the ‘potato’. The list comprises of an extremely elaborate and beautiful wristwatch movement, a superbly performing pocketwatch movement, and an unusual, quirky looking but entirely made-for-purpose extreme timekeeping engine.
(Zenith's chronometer legends: Cal. 135, Cal. 5011, Cal. 707; from left to right)
That list already attests to the diversity inherent to the term ‘chronometry’, an aspect of potential importance for marketing uses. Particularly the latter specimen, representative for a group of purpose-built machines, eliciting the fascination for technology, being apt toys-for-the-(grown-up)-boys.
The fascination of uncompromised excellence has already found its entry into Zenith - just consider the partnership with the Lancia Stratos team, celebrating the ultimate rally automobile, a car which does not impress by its beauty, but simply by being a machine created without compromise for only a single purpose (only): winning at car rallies!
4.) Developing a modern vision for the El Primero
This last point here is probably as obvious as it is challenging. In a way, the El Primero merely happened to Zenith; they did not plan it! I mean, of course the brand set out to be first to create an integrated automatic chronograph movement. But what they did not plan, and could not plan, was that this movement lasted until today. Events like the quartz crisis, and all that what followed from there, could not be influenced. They happened, and with its the long-term relevance of the El Primero movement.
(A classic - by chance: the famous El Primero movement)
But my believe is that its days are slowly coming to an end. Those of us who desire this movement mostly will own ‘their’ version of it, and the potential to induce new customers are limited. Its also rather small by todays standards, as the centred subdials on watches with a larger diameter reveal.
So here is the task which I have to admit I would not like to be confronted with: developing a worthy successor. A new movement carrying over most of the defining characteristics of the original El Primero (but how to define them? Being the first one obviously cannot cut it anymore, except (!) Zenith manages to create an entirely new, harmonious, at the same time ultra-futuristic as well as classically beautiful chronograph concept) while setting new standards for automatic chronographs.
Like I said above, just adding silicon parts is not sufficient, also simple developing a version with a horizontal clutch would not suffice. Honestly, I would also advise against - all recent new movements of this type features such clutches, so there is little differentiating left. Plus, one of the assets of the El Primero is the can-of-worms-like dense arrangement of gears and levers, all of which usually gets covered by plates and bridges with horizontal clutch miovements.
So, to come up with a trend setting new iteration of the landmark El Primero is a herculean task - but I think the technical team, receiving guidance and encouragement from JCB, might be up to it.
Concluding remarks:
Zenith needs a thorough makeover, but no shakeup. Its core values, technological inventiveness, excellent performance while still having both feet firmly set on ground. They need reinforcement and embedding into a coherent strategy.
One should recognise the entire in heritage of the brand, and this includes the era of Thierry Nataf, who was largely responsible for an internal wakeup call, but most importantly for instigating a notion of technical development to the Le Locle based brand.
Finally, a fitting marketing strategy needs to be developed which is well-aligned with the new brand direction. Exposing and stressing the inherent values, reflecting on real-life connection points of a gentlemanly lifestyle.
Oh, yes, one final wish if I may - complement this with effective media relations… Thank you!
What are your thoughts?
Cheers,
Magnus
Zenith is a brand that almost exclusively relies on one single - albeit significant - asset: its famous El Primero movement. Sure, there are other highlights, such as the Elite movement, the gyroscopic escapement module, and the other watches in the Academy collection. However, I think these are relatively overshadowed by the El Primero and would have little standing on their own.
I fear that many collectors buy a Zenith because they want to own the famous movement, not necessarily a Zenith watch. And this, I presume, is a major impediment for the entire brand.
Zenith for me has always had a notion of technical perfection, performance and sophisticated restraint (a bit similar to the IWC of the past, just in la version française...), attributes that I affectionately love, and that I think bears tremendous potential for the brand to fill a distinct niche in a difficult market environment.
What needs to be done is, to hijack a very timely phase, make Zenith great again! Its a long row to hoe, and there are many irons in the fire::
1.) Present a holistic view on the essence of Zenith
Zenith in view is so much more than just the El Primero and a few pilot’s watches. Zenith, first and foremost, is a chronometric watchmaker, historically putting the timekeeping performance of its pieces at the helm of their efforts. The ample number of more than 2000 chronometric certifications attests to this endeavour.
(Snapshot showing the diversity of current Zenith watches (from top left to bottom right): Academy Christophe Colomb Grand Voyage, El Primero Tourbillon 2016, Heritage Pilot Type 20 GMT, El Primero 1969, Elite 6150, Elite Ladies)
Zenith also is a chronograph specialist. Sure, there is the El Primero as one of the most eminent examples, but it (i) is already almost half a century old and (ii) gives little room to transfer it into a credible upmarket movement.
Zenith also needs to come up with a convincing strategy regarding their tool watches, The current pilots models are all - very apropos - listed in the heritage collection. Which already implies that there is not a contemporary expression of this type of timekeeper.
What also is striking, to me at least, is the eminent gap between the upper mid-range to lower high end offerings of the Heritage, Elite and El Primero collections, and then the Academy haute horlogerie pieces. I believe that this gap is large enough to make the latter look like an afterthought, while offering insufficient goodwill trickled down far enough to the remainder of the watches.
If it were up to me, the ultra-top high end would not need to be continued. Marvellous watches without doubt, but not ‘Zeniths’.
Then, in connection with the range of watches there is the issue of the brand image Zenith wants to convey. Recently, the focus seems to be set on the ‘gentlemanly’ things - and in my view, this seems indeed be promising. Gentlemanliness, this implies adherence to a self-imposed code of conduct resting on highest human and cultural values. The quest for excellence and achievement, old-world curiosity, respect towards your fellow people, respect towards history. But also a sound distance to the latest fashion, the exesses, the vulgar and trendy.
Gentlemanliness is not tied to a market position, it can be found anywhere (I guess Longines’ ‘elegance is an attitude’ refers to the same notion). Gentlemanliness can be interpreted in different ways, nodding to tradition and innovation at the same point, represented in all cultures I could think of.
Gentlemanliness is is self-referring and needs no external validation. If that is what JCB recently alluded to in a very recent Tempus Fugit interview (“Zenith could be the ambassador of Zenith"), then a giant leap towards a coherent and credible Zenith message has been made. Watches speak for themselves!
Thus I personally think this ‘Gentlemanliness’ a very well chosen starting point. Fill it with ‘flesh’!
2.) Reinforce Zenith’s innovation potential
Being a technical brand, one which dedicated its technical capabilities to the advancement of chronometry, Zenith is all legitimation necessary to be at the forefront of new timekeeping technologies, particularly those aimed at rather large scale production.
Jean-Claude Biver has alluded to this in the past, when discussing the brand’s respective position and role in LVMH’s watchmaking portfolio. This needs to be fostered. Putting silicon parts in replacement of conventional parts is certainly not enough, as recent impressive constructions from Greubel Forsey, De Bethune, but also Ulysses Nardin or Girard Perregaux (to name a few examples closer to Zenith’s market range) demonstrate.
Zenith needs to assume the position as the audacious technology lab within LVMH. Under guidance of Thierry Nataf, it was the Defy collection which served that goal…
(The Zenith Defy Xtreme Zero G embodies both Zenith's technical prowess as well as its cutting edge aesthetic language the preveiled under the guidance of Thierry Nataf)
3.) Revive Zenith’s reputation of timekeeping excellence
I alluded already to the chronometric track record of the brand, which is probably without peer: a stunning number of 2333 chronometry awards were won by Zenith in its entire history, some of them still hold today, for example the 5 consecutive Neuchâtel Observatory chronometry prizes from 1950 to 1954.
(At the Zenith Basel booth, the brands displays its chronometer certificates on metals plates, just like a shield or armoured protection)
Some extremely desirable (and unique!) movements resulted from this, such as the marvellous Cal. 135, the Cal. 5011, but also the Cal. 707, the ‘potato’. The list comprises of an extremely elaborate and beautiful wristwatch movement, a superbly performing pocketwatch movement, and an unusual, quirky looking but entirely made-for-purpose extreme timekeeping engine.
(Zenith's chronometer legends: Cal. 135, Cal. 5011, Cal. 707; from left to right)
That list already attests to the diversity inherent to the term ‘chronometry’, an aspect of potential importance for marketing uses. Particularly the latter specimen, representative for a group of purpose-built machines, eliciting the fascination for technology, being apt toys-for-the-(grown-up)-boys.
The fascination of uncompromised excellence has already found its entry into Zenith - just consider the partnership with the Lancia Stratos team, celebrating the ultimate rally automobile, a car which does not impress by its beauty, but simply by being a machine created without compromise for only a single purpose (only): winning at car rallies!
4.) Developing a modern vision for the El Primero
This last point here is probably as obvious as it is challenging. In a way, the El Primero merely happened to Zenith; they did not plan it! I mean, of course the brand set out to be first to create an integrated automatic chronograph movement. But what they did not plan, and could not plan, was that this movement lasted until today. Events like the quartz crisis, and all that what followed from there, could not be influenced. They happened, and with its the long-term relevance of the El Primero movement.
(A classic - by chance: the famous El Primero movement)
But my believe is that its days are slowly coming to an end. Those of us who desire this movement mostly will own ‘their’ version of it, and the potential to induce new customers are limited. Its also rather small by todays standards, as the centred subdials on watches with a larger diameter reveal.
So here is the task which I have to admit I would not like to be confronted with: developing a worthy successor. A new movement carrying over most of the defining characteristics of the original El Primero (but how to define them? Being the first one obviously cannot cut it anymore, except (!) Zenith manages to create an entirely new, harmonious, at the same time ultra-futuristic as well as classically beautiful chronograph concept) while setting new standards for automatic chronographs.
Like I said above, just adding silicon parts is not sufficient, also simple developing a version with a horizontal clutch would not suffice. Honestly, I would also advise against - all recent new movements of this type features such clutches, so there is little differentiating left. Plus, one of the assets of the El Primero is the can-of-worms-like dense arrangement of gears and levers, all of which usually gets covered by plates and bridges with horizontal clutch miovements.
So, to come up with a trend setting new iteration of the landmark El Primero is a herculean task - but I think the technical team, receiving guidance and encouragement from JCB, might be up to it.
Concluding remarks:
Zenith needs a thorough makeover, but no shakeup. Its core values, technological inventiveness, excellent performance while still having both feet firmly set on ground. They need reinforcement and embedding into a coherent strategy.
One should recognise the entire in heritage of the brand, and this includes the era of Thierry Nataf, who was largely responsible for an internal wakeup call, but most importantly for instigating a notion of technical development to the Le Locle based brand.
Finally, a fitting marketing strategy needs to be developed which is well-aligned with the new brand direction. Exposing and stressing the inherent values, reflecting on real-life connection points of a gentlemanly lifestyle.
Oh, yes, one final wish if I may - complement this with effective media relations… Thank you!
What are your thoughts?
Cheers,
Magnus
Fantastic article Magnus
I am one of those people mentioned who would like to have and El Primero movement is the collection. But haven't taken a fancy to any Zenith watch is over a decade.
Valid point Magnus
I support most of them.
However, it contains a strategy for the next 15 years... ;-)
The foremost most important point is: Zenith needs to make money again in order to reinvest it for the improvement of the general value proposition you described so well.
This means, listen to your ambassadors, and create something that has the potential to scale and set a new benchmark. This is probably - you guessed it - an El Primero watch. Zenith has NOW the biggest chance to profit from the anniversary of next year. Its great that JCB is taking over now, because, this would be a no-go to miss that chance!
However, it contains a strategy for the next 15 years... ;-)
The foremost most important point is: Zenith needs to make money again in order to reinvest it for the improvement of the general value proposition you described so well.
This means, listen to your ambassadors, and create something that has the potential to scale and set a new benchmark. This is probably - you guessed it - an El Primero watch. Zenith has NOW the biggest chance to profit from the anniversary of next year. Its great that JCB is taking over now, because, this would be a no-go to miss that chance!
To Magnus:
It seems that JCB does not want to change to much on the products side, and more on the communication side: Here a brandnew interview from NZZ, also regarding Zenith's strategy:
http://www.nzz.ch/interview-mit-uhrendoyen-jean-claude-biver-unsere-smartwatch-ist-ein-erfolg-ld.139701?utm_content=buffer44476&utm_medium=social&utm_source=facebook.com&utm_campaign=buffer
It seems difficult to post links here...
http://www.nzz.ch/interview-mit-uhrendoyen-jean-claude-biver-unsere-smartwatch-ist-ein-erfolg-ld.139701?utm_content=buffer44476&utm_medium=social&utm_source=facebook.com&utm_campaign=buffer
It seems difficult to post links here...
Well, that interview was more about TAG and the Connected, less about Zenith...
thus we'll see what he has to say exclusively about our beloved brand!
One thing is for sure: we live in exciting times as Zenith lovers!
Best,
Magnus
Best,
Magnus
that's why I wrote - "its also about Zeniths strategy"...;-)
The interview has no specific brand focus.
Great article Magnus. The beauty of Jean-Claude Biver?
He would be quite thrilled to sit down with you and discuss these points. Most CEOs would not, if I had to guess.
Awesome. I look forward to this interview!
JCB tells it straight and does not hold back.
Zenith's most famous watch is also its biggest weakness
I agree
If it were up to me, the ultra-top high end would not need to be continued. Marvellous watches without doubt, but not ‘Zeniths’.
Zenith is part of LVMH group, so they might share resources and technologies.
No reasons to "fight" each other, so assuming Hublot is more high-end focused, it's time to set Tag and Zenith, one in the middle and one as entry level (i'd put TAG as the entry level).
Zenith should address to those NEW watch lovers who aspire to own a true swiss made caliber, with decent finishing and an excellent chronometry.
No gold case, only good and durable steel.
Then, they'd (try to) design a new watch.
A stylish watch, a modern watch, but it seems that the inspiration and creativity has, more less, ended with Genta.
Titanium, aluminium alloys, with a real ergonomy for time and date.
Many potential customers are attracted by new and original design, as the sevenfriday's success confirms, so it'd be the time to dare.
Do you know what?
They'd look for some designers completely away of horology; less they know, wider and limitless is the mind.
As much as regards a new chrono, Zenith has a tough competitor under the same ceiling, so it depends from their group's strategy.
+1 from my side: like that is just perfect, nothing to be reinvented! [nt]
No message body
I certainly agree with you on most points...
As Zenith has certainly established its technical prowess, providing a modern "twist" to the El Primero would certainly be a step in the right direction, but one that mostly only established connoisseurs would appreciate.
My pragmatic side concedes that most purchasers of such pieces base less of their purchasing decision on technical but rather aesthetics. This can certainly be seen by the meteoric rise of Hublot in the early days, when the original ETA based Big Bangs stormed the industry. This success gave Hublot the time and resourses to emerge into the full fleged manufacture that it is today.
Zenith, on the other hand, has a rich heritage and is already technically established. In my mind, all Zenith needs to do is update the exteral design of their watches. As much as I love and respect the El Primero, many of the cases (to me) are a bit dated...and this is an area where Mr. Biver certainly excels.
My prediction is that the first line of business (that we'll see) from Zenith under JCB will be new cases for El Primero, maybe even multi-component cases that will allow more variations and yes, LEs. Knowing JCB, he works at the speed of light so I would bet that we'll see new announcements at Basel.
My crystal ball also predicts more emphasis on the Pilot series. It's solid and established with nothing to really change but perhaps some new variation.
This is an exciting time for Zenith and I've no doubt that following Basel, there will be a renewed interst in the brand.
This is a very interesting article Magnus
for an interesting moment of Zenith's life.
First, I think there really is a difference between people going that deep into the watch world, reading about watches on the net, and the other type of clients which have never cared about going any further than the aesthetical side and the image they have from the brand because they saw it on a friend or collegue's wrist or in a commercial. I suspect the latter crowd is a large majority.
Hence, maybe I'm wrong but I would say that the way it is sold to the public, its aesthetics appeal, may be much more important for the turnover than what's inside.
I would thus keep the very technical innovation and development (Zero-G or even 1/10th of a second chronographs which brings modernity and the fusee chaine or Christophe Columbus escapement design etc...) for rarer pieces and the pleasure of people interested in watchmaking. And of course because high-end collections add value to the lower line-ups.
And I would keep the El Primero as well and develop its popularity among the wider crowd and people attracted by watchmaking like us. Even Rolex, that is very well known for its very reliable and accurate Daytonas, are known by the watch name and not by a caliber name or number. That's also an element to notice imho as it is not mandatory and should not be considered as top priority either.
So, I think it should be starting by the aesthetical side: this is how new customers will be gained over competitors. By the way, I love the Icons Stratos and don't understand why it is not in the regular collection but put aside in the Heritage one. I know why it is there but just think it shouldn't for more visibility and the message it brings. And it should also be provided in a smaller case. A 41 or 42mm Stratos Rainbow will have such a great success imho.
The design of the 1/10th and normal chronographs El Primero line should maybe be modified but that's designer's job.
Just some thoughts.
Enjoy your trip to Geneva and thank you for the article. I'm looking forward to reading about what JCB will say about that, even if I don't like that much the full marketting orientation in order to sell a watch. I would like authenticity as well 
Best, Mark
One way could be to have something like...
The heritage
The contemporary
The avantgarde
That way different clienteles could be reached, and each collection could have distinct, well-developed and defined features, but also cover different price points.
A recognisable Zenith design code that could be applied across collections is severely missing, for sure.
Best,
Magnus
The contemporary
The avantgarde
That way different clienteles could be reached, and each collection could have distinct, well-developed and defined features, but also cover different price points.
A recognisable Zenith design code that could be applied across collections is severely missing, for sure.
Best,
Magnus
Great article, Magnus!
To me there's so much under exploited quality and value in Zenith's current catalogue that marketing strategy and repositioning of the brand will certainly help greatly.
I hope we see a new Zenith emerge, and the idea of a totally new evolution of the El Primero movement for the 21st century as the cornerstone of that would be great to behold.
I do hope we continue to see their haute horology offerings continue in the future as it does so much to define the innovative and technical expertise of the brand, I only hope that we now start to see that filter down into their other offerings.
I hope we see a new Zenith emerge, and the idea of a totally new evolution of the El Primero movement for the 21st century as the cornerstone of that would be great to behold.
I do hope we continue to see their haute horology offerings continue in the future as it does so much to define the innovative and technical expertise of the brand, I only hope that we now start to see that filter down into their other offerings.
Not much to add
This is so true
Zenith has probably on off the most interesting histories in watchmaking
Maybe the most important. It does not have the prestige we find a for example patek but they don't need too
Indeed, if you look at all the contests and prizes zenith won, it's unbelievable they don't use these facts much more.
Look what mr Biver did with blancpain decades ago. Blancpain was NOT a high end watchmaker ( open a 1960 50 fathoms) and what did blancpain offer us between 1880 and 1980? As good as nothing.
Nevertheless mr Biver reinvented the brand and made most believe that blancpain was top and very high and since 1735.
So if he can do all of this with a brand which imo lacks serious history, imaging what he can do if he reads the books manfred rössler and mr duval wrote.
Zenith has probably on off the most interesting histories in watchmaking
Maybe the most important. It does not have the prestige we find a for example patek but they don't need too
Indeed, if you look at all the contests and prizes zenith won, it's unbelievable they don't use these facts much more.
Look what mr Biver did with blancpain decades ago. Blancpain was NOT a high end watchmaker ( open a 1960 50 fathoms) and what did blancpain offer us between 1880 and 1980? As good as nothing.
Nevertheless mr Biver reinvented the brand and made most believe that blancpain was top and very high and since 1735.
So if he can do all of this with a brand which imo lacks serious history, imaging what he can do if he reads the books manfred rössler and mr duval wrote.
Bruno, that is my impression as well - considering also how differently both Blancpain & Hublot developed! [nt]
No message body
Zenith must energize the USA market.
But it won't be easy. To sell well here: it must be a status symbol, it must be more widely available, it must be advertised, it must be written up in men's style and executive lifestyle magazines, and it must be reasonably serviceable.
Nataf was the one who overcame the trademark restriction agreement imposed by Zenith Electronics when they sold MZM to Dixi. So, 2000 is The Beginning for Zenith as a brand in the US. In that time, they have made only a few watches that could become enduring status symbols, which require consistent recognizability and obvious quality and seriousness. Hublot is the brand for whimsy and extreme stylistic edge. Zenith is not and never has been, despite the Defy Xtreme.
One of the watches that could do that is the Captain of 2010 to present (though now no longer in its separate line). It has classic good looks that will not fade from fashion--completely consistent with the concept of gentlemanliness. But in America, that term won't do. Instead, think "class". Being a bit dressier than a Rolex helps with that.
Consistency is the key. Were I in charge of the US market, this is the model that would be featured in ads, worn by classy and successful executive types rather than male models. The ad would explain why it's worth the price--Rolex doesn't have to do that any more but Zenith does. The target age would be 40-60, not 30-40. Golf is littered with Rolex ads--there's a reason for that--golf is an aspirational game. Put them on the arms of executive-types in movies and TV shows, with clear brand placement. Offer them for sale in Cadillac dealerships. Etc.
Add solid three-hand chronometers, but maintain consistent styling for that targeted line. Add a dressier piece--the ladies Star cushion case enlarged to 38-40 mm and without diamonds would do nicely, in addition to the 6150. Add a diver with the Elite movement, but with similar dial styling to the Captain (or whatever it would be called). But "Captain" is a good model name for watches targeted to captains of industry and those who aspire to such. But it needs to say it on the dial, as of old.
The lines would either need chronometer certification, or a special and explicit certification by Zenith that is more demanding (as Omega has done, and also JLC with their 1000 Hours Control). Include that in ads.
And the targeted line would need to be widely available in the same stores that sell Rolex--jewelry stores. Offer better margins than Rolex, but keep prices a little lower. Make salespeople want to sell them. Support brand pricing by ending the gray market selloff through Ashford (much as we benefit from it), even if it means a buyback.
The El Primero movement is only outdated to some enthusiasts, not to regular buyers. It does not need to be updated. Only enthusiasts think the subdials on the watch pictured above are too centered. And even then it's matter of preference, not gentlemanliness. But a 16''' EP could be exactly like the current EP, with the entire design scaled up accordingly (except for the balance, of course). Multiply every X and Y dimension by 16/13, but leave the thickness as it is. Revise the keyless works to reverse the date and time setting positions so that a hack feature could be added. The larger barrel (but not larger balance) would increase reserve--similar to the new Elite 6150. It would still look like an EP, and I think it could still be called that--El Primero Grande. It would supplement the current EP, not supplant it, much as the Valgranges A07.211 supplements the ETA 7750.
The US market is a stabilizing force, but it is hard work to earn. Longines did it by plastering their name all over the sports programs of the past (a showing of ABC's Wide World of Sports would show it constantly, for example), and by advertising through Wittnauer aggressively over a prolonged period. Omega did it with NASA and James Bond. Rolex did it with magic. Heuer did it with Grand Prix racing. It can be done.
For this amazing advice, I won't charge Mr. Biver a nickel.
--Rick
Nataf was the one who overcame the trademark restriction agreement imposed by Zenith Electronics when they sold MZM to Dixi. So, 2000 is The Beginning for Zenith as a brand in the US. In that time, they have made only a few watches that could become enduring status symbols, which require consistent recognizability and obvious quality and seriousness. Hublot is the brand for whimsy and extreme stylistic edge. Zenith is not and never has been, despite the Defy Xtreme.
One of the watches that could do that is the Captain of 2010 to present (though now no longer in its separate line). It has classic good looks that will not fade from fashion--completely consistent with the concept of gentlemanliness. But in America, that term won't do. Instead, think "class". Being a bit dressier than a Rolex helps with that.
Consistency is the key. Were I in charge of the US market, this is the model that would be featured in ads, worn by classy and successful executive types rather than male models. The ad would explain why it's worth the price--Rolex doesn't have to do that any more but Zenith does. The target age would be 40-60, not 30-40. Golf is littered with Rolex ads--there's a reason for that--golf is an aspirational game. Put them on the arms of executive-types in movies and TV shows, with clear brand placement. Offer them for sale in Cadillac dealerships. Etc.
Add solid three-hand chronometers, but maintain consistent styling for that targeted line. Add a dressier piece--the ladies Star cushion case enlarged to 38-40 mm and without diamonds would do nicely, in addition to the 6150. Add a diver with the Elite movement, but with similar dial styling to the Captain (or whatever it would be called). But "Captain" is a good model name for watches targeted to captains of industry and those who aspire to such. But it needs to say it on the dial, as of old.
The lines would either need chronometer certification, or a special and explicit certification by Zenith that is more demanding (as Omega has done, and also JLC with their 1000 Hours Control). Include that in ads.
And the targeted line would need to be widely available in the same stores that sell Rolex--jewelry stores. Offer better margins than Rolex, but keep prices a little lower. Make salespeople want to sell them. Support brand pricing by ending the gray market selloff through Ashford (much as we benefit from it), even if it means a buyback.
The El Primero movement is only outdated to some enthusiasts, not to regular buyers. It does not need to be updated. Only enthusiasts think the subdials on the watch pictured above are too centered. And even then it's matter of preference, not gentlemanliness. But a 16''' EP could be exactly like the current EP, with the entire design scaled up accordingly (except for the balance, of course). Multiply every X and Y dimension by 16/13, but leave the thickness as it is. Revise the keyless works to reverse the date and time setting positions so that a hack feature could be added. The larger barrel (but not larger balance) would increase reserve--similar to the new Elite 6150. It would still look like an EP, and I think it could still be called that--El Primero Grande. It would supplement the current EP, not supplant it, much as the Valgranges A07.211 supplements the ETA 7750.
The US market is a stabilizing force, but it is hard work to earn. Longines did it by plastering their name all over the sports programs of the past (a showing of ABC's Wide World of Sports would show it constantly, for example), and by advertising through Wittnauer aggressively over a prolonged period. Omega did it with NASA and James Bond. Rolex did it with magic. Heuer did it with Grand Prix racing. It can be done.
For this amazing advice, I won't charge Mr. Biver a nickel.
--Rick
Good points
Definite yes to a chronometric certification standard for performance and advertising.
A great review! Thanks!!
The brand "Zenith" to watch collectors represents reliability and accuracy, a fairly high percentage of components of an entire watch are manufactured in-house.
Needless to say there is a rich history in horology but you are right about the brand. The fact is they currently have two base movements. There are other brands cannot afford to develop their own movements and use movements from others. They need to focus on dial, case and overall aesthetic design. For Zenith, we expect them to have the capability to offer more.
To develop a new movement at least as good as both the Elite and El Primero is quite an engineering task. It requires a lot of investment in design and testing. Zenith might not have the human resources even matrix system has been how projects are executed.
If there is a new "movement", it needs to create enough 'noise' to get attention of watch lovers.
Marketing investment is one thing, but more importantly "reliability". El Primero has been in production for so many years and the same applies to the Elite movement, if there are any known issues, they would be discovered and well documented. The knowledge management for the two current movements forms the foundation of 'quality'.
The watch industry is competitive and in general consumers have a higher demand for reliability in almost anything they purchase in the 21st century. Social media spreads the good, the bad and the ugly like lightning.
I want to see Zenith make progress to the next level not by just offering new dials and new casing or using newer materials in movement manufacture or like you mentioned adding vertical clutch.
It will take time and to see success, a lot of factors must play well to create a great choreography. That is a real challenge.
Hi Magnus
A very worthy post on the current position of Zenith. In the UK it seems Zenith really doesn't seem to capture the imagination of the Omega and Rolex buying public like it should, with the heritage behind it (I could say the same for Longines, just look at their back catalogue compared to where they are in the market today).
Zenith somehow just never seems to get to that critical mass where the general public, as well as watch nerds, feel it has the 'value' of those other 2 brands in particular.
I know it appeared universally hated but I really liked some watches from the Nataf era. I have always coveted one of those Zero-G monsters you show that everyone else seemed to hate. I have a mad 1000M defy extreme chronograph which I love to bits, as much for it's madness and a legacy of the 'more is better' era of watchmaking that affected that time, as having the El Primero in it.
As per your picture above of the range of Zenith, it has a little of the splatter gun effect of trying everything without hitting a visual style that can be said straight off to be 'Zenith'. Compare with a range within Omega, say Speedmaster or Seamaster (and anything from Rolex) where you can spot the style at 50 paces. Nearest I think Zenith have got to that recently are the Stratos models with a very clear bezel design showcasing the dial
As to where the company goes next, I agree they have a fantastic 'Chronometry' record but how does that sell to the marketplace in an effective way. It would prove tricky with todays technology to be more chronometrically pure than many other brands
regards
Tim