Patek Philippe

On the 22nd.June, 2011 Patek officially launched their new ref.5235. The new reference breaks new ground, and is a catalogue of firsts for the company. The first , first is the fact that it is the companies debut wristwatch regulator. Indeed, for collectors this is an absolute dream come true, and we could say that this is truely a new chapter not only for Patek Philippe but in the manufacture of regulators...it is to my knowledge, a world debut of a regulator with annual calendar.


The hours , minute and seconds display is of the classic regulator style, with the  hours displayed in a subsiduary dial at 12, the minutes along the outer chapter of the dial and the seconds in subsiduary dial at six. The annual calendar is displayed as per the 5960, with the exception that the date is at 6 o'clock. In order for this happen, Patek took the cal.240 movement and extensively reworked it, as the the seconds is normally at 5 o'clock. the movement, the cal. 31-260 REG QA, is of course another first...but in its construction boasts numerous firsts!




What makes this movement unique, is that it was designed from the outset to incorporate all of the advanced research technologies (with the exception of the Oscillomax), in a standard production wristwatch.
 

It features ofcourse the Spiromax balance and Pulsomax escapement all made in Silinvar. These are not the only firsts, the new movement features a new going train, as Patek state "tooth by tooth"
 

Patek completely redesigned the going train, the wheels and pinions between the mainspring barrel and the escape wheel. The shapes of the wheel teeth and the leaves of the pinions were piece by piece redesigned for the center wheel, the third wheel, and the fourth wheel with their respective pinions. The radical new profiles improve the meshing of wheel teeth and pinion leaves, hence reducing friction, whilst increasing the tolerance range for varying axis distances, and boost the efficiency of energy transmission from the spring barrel to the escape wheel. What Patek have achieved with this feat of engineering, is to have constructed a movement with palpable improvement of energy conversion efficiency whilst simultaneously reducing wear.

All of these improvements and redisgn have had other beneficial outcomes, for instance while the caliber 240 beats at a rate of 21,600 semi-oscillations per hour, the frequency of the new movement has increased  to 23,040 vph, equivalent to 3.2 Hz. Another  consequence has been an improvement in the power reserve. 

The increase in frequency, allows the new regulator to be adjusted to within   - 3/+2 seconds per 24 hours, in the true regulatlor chronometre style. The new Patek seal also requires such accuracy as part of its standards of conformity. 

Now to the watch itself, the case is familiar to all Patek lovers. It is a larger version of the classic 3448/3450 Perpetual Calendar of the  60's thru to the 80's. the new size is a very modern, 40.5mm. (depth 11mm). The thin bezel and large dial, actually give it a much larger appearance than the size suggests. Infact next to my 5276, it looked huge.

The dial has Patek Philippe engraved just like the vintage pieces, I just loved this. I hope so much it will be carried to all watches.

The sides of the case are brush finished with straight graining. The buckle is engraved with Patek Philippe.

The dial has a nice two tone effect depending on the light, changing from a silvery colour to a dark greyish depending how you look at it.

 
 

And finally, incredibly, this is Patek's first stop second wristwatch! I know, I could not believe it my self, but here you go...better late than never I guess!

 

This message has been edited by Dje on 2011-06-23 12:26:20 This message has been edited by Dje on 2011-06-26 09:06:34

So, I guess this watch is not for me...

In fact, I have regrets, here: I would have dreamt to have a stop second PP watch for some chronometric purposes, with a simple, sober, understated look, ala PP Amagnetic from the end of the Fifties...

Without Date...

That would have been another cool nightmare for me!

Best,

Nicolas. This message has been edited by amanico on 2011-06-23 11:16:06

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What is it's function and significance? Sorry if this is an ignorant question!

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...when you adjust the time?

... by reversing just a tiny bit the minute hand.  The second hand, then, stops or even goes backward a little so you can adjust the second.  I forgot where, but I have read that it does not do any harm to the movement.  So, practically, non-hacking of PP movements doesn't bother me.  Non-hacking tourbillon movement is another story (PP or not), though

Ken.

The press conference presentation was presented by Nicolas Boule, the designer of the new movement. The theme was how Patek have managed to combine tradition with innovation. What is clear is that this is a radical new piece from Patek..but more later, for now join me in the presentation

 

 

a re-engineered cal.240, with a longer 60h power reserve and WR to 30m.

classic annual calendar display, first seen in the Annual calendar Gondolo

a first for Patek..... stop seconds!

classic calatrava style, reminiscent of the classic 3448/3450 with the "dagger" lugs

no polishing here,...for the first time, brushed straight grain finishing

engraved buckle...

the dial certainly "wears" very large..... not a watch for the shy,

a new version of the classic annual calendar, and along with the minute repeater and chronograph

the new technologies, and the first standard production to feature all of them

the new going train, with increased efficiency and reduced wear

more advances, in the intorduction of stop seconds

and now

 

the live pics!!

 

The regulator will definately raise many views, some will love it some wont...one thing is for sure, its a powerful watch. I also believe this is a watch made for collectors, certainly I do not think this will be a mainstream big seller, apart from watch nuts the regulator will have little or no significance. Perhaps for this reason, I believe the piece would have been better as a 38.5mm watch, but thats subjective, as even many of us here love extra large watches.

Imran

 

and finally

the man behind the movement..

 

and his boss......

 

hope you enjoyed the tour
This message has been edited by imran in london on 2011-06-23 11:44:33

you are the best

Thanks for sharing with us!

In general I am not a big fan of regulator´s, but in this case ... warm feeling in the stomach ...
some beautiful and subtle details (don´t talk about the strange engraving on the buckle) ...
some interesting features ...

Has to be seen in the metal, soon

Oliver

ps: Size is very similar to Richard Lange ...

Ceraitnly due to the modular built movement, but I wonder if this one will be comfortable to wear.

The 5396 has the same, slight "issue", but in that case it is just acceptable.

Wonder how it will be with this one.

As you are saying correctly: it is something for the aquired taste.


Regrads

Moritz

I may be in the minority but my first impression is positive. Without seeing it IRL I would have to reserve my judgement but I think PP has created a watch for collectors rather than buyers( if that makes sense).

I think they have created a winner here in my opinion
Julian

the dial gives me an unpleasent look with the two window near 2 and 10 o'clock.  Further, the dial is too plain.

Regards

Ling

Nt.

this really has an intellectual appeal.....it's really growing on me.

thx for sharing

J

No, not technically, of course! But it is fun to see that while the date ring retains the typical PP typography, the numbers at the minute markers perfectly replicate the classic typographic style that ETA uses on its date rings since decades.

Generally, I consider this design a bit too sober, with two minor stylistic glitches, that have been mentioned already: the empty left side of the dial, and the date window cutting through the railroad register ring of the small second.

Regards,
Marcus

Great post! Very impressive new release. I'm a big regulator fan. This one actually reminds of Sinn's 6100, which I love.

Well done, Patek!

... think it will be up in auction house sooner or later.

stefan

Maybe an indication of why I did not like the watch design.

nt

Too blingy for PP, IMO

nt

The movement is my favorite part of the watch, but that's a real compliment. The case is also really fantastic in these live pics. I just can't stand the annual calendar display here... these windows are just WRONG on this watch.... I don't like the date at 6 eaither, it's so 'mundane' somehow on such an otherwise unique and really interesting and beautiful watch... hm...

I'm responding now to the LIVE pics. This message has been edited by Mostel on 2011-06-30 20:46:27 This message has been edited by Mostel on 2011-06-30 20:46:54

Hi there Imran,

Totally enjoyed your tour , especially the details mate. Very much in appreciation.

Ahh, now you see the Swiss finally admitting that the stop seconds function is needed for " Precise time setting". It's about time and i'm so with you on this.

The unfortunate things is oh why must it be an automatic!

And the case material, wrong.

Other than that the blued steel hands are gorgeous i'm sure though i can't really tell for sure from the photos.

Do you know if this happens to be a regular production or is it a limited run?

Cheers

Stephen

... is far to Bauhaus-like, which is nothing for me.

Yes, it is technically great.

Yes, it is blue and very discreet in appearance (although still big ;-)).

But the design overall: naaaaah ...




Regards

Moritz

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Hi Imran,

Thank you for your report.

I would have loved to attend this conference.

I'm rapidly getting used to this watch and can say I'm quite tempted to put it on my wrist ASAP.

I would have prefered the dial lettering "Patek Philippe Geneve" split differently to equilibrate the dial, but out of that I really like what I see.

The technical side is quite tempting too.

I just can hope to see it someday now.

Thank you again for your great report.

Cheers

Dje

The big empty space on the left, the date which cuts the scale, the overall sadness... this watch is far from bringing excitement to me.

Thanks for the pics Imran.

Fx

thanks for the report !

I'm still not sure if I like it or not

It's so  special I need to get used to it.

 

is like when I first saw the Zeitwerk from ALS or the more recent tourby PLM which is also a regulator. A bit radical and an immediate 'what have they done'; more like IWC than PP.

However, change is never easily accepted and it could be a risky but daring proposition for PP. Time will tell and most of us will have enough time to digest it all before we finally get to see one in the metal and make a better judgement.

Thanks for update Imran

F

a real cool and collected demeanor--very daring--and seems a real departure for Patek!  I'm happy to see them taking risks--all the more interesting

J
This message has been edited by playtime on 2011-06-23 19:09:55