Comments:
This watch is made in three metals: red gold, white gold and yellow gold. The white gold model with its blue dial did not turn me on. This kind of blue dial represents to me a fashion dial and thanks to the already discontinued 5140P with blue dial, the white gold ones blue represents to me already gone fashion.
Believe it or not, I am considering buying this watch. With matching cufflinks!
I have my Advanced Research 5550P also with grey dial so I will not go for this. But for anybody who wanted to have 5550P but could not get it, here is a really stylish perpetual calendar. A watch which can "take the time".
The dial is stunning! The applied numbers of the retrograde date are jaw dropping. Furthermore, the complication is great and sometimes here we speak about "pairs". This 5496P makes a cool pair with my 5550P.
I hope that we will see next year the platinum version. Night blue, really dark blue centre would be my dream. Black would also do. Such a watch would end to my wrist.
I'm sure this watch will sell well and I will do my final judgement when the platinum version appears to the market.
However, also the new 20th Annual Calendar Anniversary 5396 is a very nice watch. I just wonder how upset are the people who hunted the Tiffany version of the same.
Like said, I am not a red gold guy. Anyhow, when I saw the new Aquanaut, I was surprised.
I started to think what could be a reason good enough to buy this watch and I think I found it. I'm thinking about moving to Singapore for a while. This watch is perfect for smart casual attire and after the work this can perfectly jump with me to the pool. And when travelling every now to Europe, the Travel Time complication is great.
Chronograph 5950R:
Chronograph ref. 5959R:
My wife was not deeply impressed about the collection for ladies. However, when she saw the new Ref. 4897/300G she asked "would it be stupid to have two similar watches?" The baton shaped diamonds fit to this watch really well and my wife has "just" the version with round diamond.
Some old references:
Nautilus 5712/1A:
Because the movement is not too big, this would make a perfect Anniversary Nautilus for the ladies with a similar dial material than in my wife's ref. 7018/1A-010. That would make my wife's dreams come true.
Was 2016 a good year? I think that for most of Patek lovers it was. I am a great fan of steel and platinum so the new collection contained only one "non-brainer", 5496P.
Patek Philippe's new collection in Basel - some impressions
What a day! I must say that Brussels was in everybody's mind and it gave a sad flavour to the day.
The first surprise was: "Photography prohibited" in the private presentation. Naturally, I asked for explanation and it was about "the pictures might end to social media". My next question was "are we really having Baselworld 2016?"
First of all; a couple of notes:
. There are totally 28 new models
- 13 in red gold
- 10 in white gold
- 3 in platinum
- 1 in yellow gold
- 1 in steel. But this one I do not count because it's a battery watch
- Only one "new movement" in 5930G
- All platinum watches are Grand Complications and the new models were all Face Lifts
- Breguet numbers are "in"
- Grey dials are coming and number of blue dials are reducing
- Steel is missing - perhaps new Nautilus models will correct the situation
So all in all, unlike many other important manufacturers, PP decided not to introduce new movements (except for 5930G - standard automatic chronograph plus World Time module). This year Patek trusted on red and white gold, new cases and Face Lifts.
Before we will have a look at some of the watches and my very subjective impressions, I apologise the bad pictures. I felt like a guy who wanted to do some photography of wild animals in their natural habitat but ended up to taking pictures in zoo through a glass.
However, I handled all the watches and managed to form quite firm opinion about most of them.
Perpetual Calendar ref. 5327:
This watch represents the 3rd generation of perpetual with 240Q calibre. The original ref. 3940 was 36 mm, the next 5140 a bit enlarged to 37.2 mm and the new 5327 modern 39 mm. I think that Patek did not succeed too well with 5140. It was a bit bigger than the original 3940 but the dial was very crowded and messy.
The new 5327 is a clever watch. Looking to the back, it's difficult to understand that 240Q is quite a small movement for a 39 mm watch. Furthermore, on the dial side the stretching has been hidden with the usage of Breguet numbers. I admire the approach.
The lugs have been copied from 5227 and they are great - a kind of miniature sculptures.
This watch is made in three metals: red gold, white gold and yellow gold. The white gold model with its blue dial did not turn me on. This kind of blue dial represents to me a fashion dial and thanks to the already discontinued 5140P with blue dial, the white gold ones blue represents to me already gone fashion.
Yellow gold seems to be "out" and the only YG model Patek introduced this year was 5227J.
I'm not a "coloured metal guy". But the red gold 5227R is fantastic. The lacquered dial looks nearly like enamel and the case is not too red. This watch with the shiny dark brown strap is pretty much a perfect dress watch.
Believe it or not, I am considering buying this watch. With matching cufflinks!
Perpetual calendar ref. 5140P:
With the "noble" grey dial, this platinum version is for me the finest and most elegant ref. 5140 till now. And for sure it's also the last version.
I have my Advanced Research 5550P also with grey dial so I will not go for this. But for anybody who wanted to have 5550P but could not get it, here is a really stylish perpetual calendar. A watch which can "take the time".
Perpetual Calendar ref. 5496P:
I heard that my "Supplier" ordered this watch for me already last August. He was right and I simply confirmed the order.
The dial is stunning! The applied numbers of the retrograde date are jaw dropping. Furthermore, the complication is great and sometimes here we speak about "pairs". This 5496P makes a cool pair with my 5550P.
I am sure that many of you are interested about the two new World Times:
World Time ref. 5230G & R:
Perfect size. Beautiful dial. Nice lugs. Very cool hands. I like it a lot. The grey centre fits very well to both the white gold and red gold models. Is it nicer that 5130? For sure! Is it nicer than 5110? I do not know. Yet.
I hope that we will see next year the platinum version. Night blue, really dark blue centre would be my dream. Black would also do. Such a watch would end to my wrist.
My only issue is that the cities on the dial are not balanced. There is too much text on the left side. Why not to write i.e. B. Aires with the same logic as L. Angeles?
Minute Repeater 5374P:
What a beautiful watch! Perfection. One has to decide: Bentley Bentayga + Porsche Targa 4S + Ferrari California T plus a lot of options. The one having the cash is free to decide...
World Time Chronograph 5930G:
The colour of the dial is much better than in press pictures. It is not bright blue but a bit greyish blue.
I have a couple of issues with this watch. Please do not misunderstand: it is really a beautiful watch. But:
- What is the practical idea by combining chronograph and World Time?
- The upper city ring is not easily visible - why not increase the size of the case with 0.5-1.5 mm?
- A bit bigger case would also hide the thickness of the watch.
I'm sure this watch will sell well and I will do my final judgement when the platinum version appears to the market.
Annual Calendar ref. 5396G & R:
I do not own an annual calendar without the chronograph. If I would decide to buy one, it would be the classic 5146P:
However, also the new 20th Annual Calendar Anniversary 5396 is a very nice watch. I just wonder how upset are the people who hunted the Tiffany version of the same.
I think this one is a nice version for anybody looking for his first annual calendar. The grey dial of the white gold version is a bit clinical while the light dial of the red gold version is more "dress watch like".
Like said, I am not a red gold guy. Anyhow, when I saw the new Aquanaut, I was surprised.
Aquanaut 5164R:
I do not like the idea of making a sporting watch of soft noble material
However, this watch looks GOOD and it feels GOOD. The colour combination is COOL!
I started to think what could be a reason good enough to buy this watch and I think I found it. I'm thinking about moving to Singapore for a while. This watch is perfect for smart casual attire and after the work this can perfectly jump with me to the pool. And when travelling every now to Europe, the Travel Time complication is great.
I'm afraid that soon I need to say: "I wasn't a red gold guy".
Chronograph 5170R:
I hoped for the platinum version but have to wait.
This reference came with two different dials. The light one is something one could expect while the matt black is cool. A third red gold watch I could wear...
Chronograph 5950R:
Looks good but I would love to get this in platinum and black enamel dial or simple steel like it was offered earlier. Great watch anyhow.
Chronograph ref. 5959R:
Stunning movement, nice dial but luckily ($$$,$$$) too small on my wrist.
My wife was not deeply impressed about the collection for ladies. However, when she saw the new Ref. 4897/300G she asked "would it be stupid to have two similar watches?" The baton shaped diamonds fit to this watch really well and my wife has "just" the version with round diamond.
Some old references:
When looking at the watches of the old collection, I made a couple of remarks. First of all, the enamel dial of 5131R looked better than the same of 5131G or J. I wonder is I should put my name to the list...
Nautilus 5712/1A:
Looks still as good as 10 years ago when it was introduced. Even I own 3712, I have put my name to the waiting list.
Because the movement is not too big, this would make a perfect Anniversary Nautilus for the ladies with a similar dial material than in my wife's ref. 7018/1A-010. That would make my wife's dreams come true.
Was 2016 a good year? I think that for most of Patek lovers it was. I am a great fan of steel and platinum so the new collection contained only one "non-brainer", 5496P.
Anyhow, I sincerely hope that we will see some exciting Nautilus later this year.
Thanks for reading!
Kari
Thank you for this comprehensive review
I like the fact that for each watch you have said whether you would put your name on the list or not.
Was there anything about 5235G? any word whether the production is going to resume or not?
No discussion at all.
Ref. 5235G was presented as a part of the regular collection.
Best, Kari
Thanks for the great write up..
really valuable to have impressions from someone so knowledgable handling the pieces.
The 5374P is perfection indeed and destined for very few wrists (and not mine sadly). Otherwise there is nothing in the collection that I would add to my own. Like you I will await the Platinum version of the 5230 but if in the meantime a 5110P falls into my lap I will not hesitate.
In a way I am relieved there is nothing for me. That might change when I veiw them all in May for myself of course.
Thanks again, J
The 5374P is perfection indeed and destined for very few wrists (and not mine sadly). Otherwise there is nothing in the collection that I would add to my own. Like you I will await the Platinum version of the 5230 but if in the meantime a 5110P falls into my lap I will not hesitate.
In a way I am relieved there is nothing for me. That might change when I veiw them all in May for myself of course.
Thanks again, J
Indeed, 5110P is hard to beat.
Mine is in the spa and it will shine again when coming back.
Have a look at 5496P. One can understand the beauty only by handling the watch. Wait and see what kind of Anniversary Nautilus we will get. Perhaps something there will make you excited.
Best, Kari
Thank you for the hands on reviews.
I like the 5930 a lot. I'm not sure why they would combine a chrono and a world time watch, but hey my 2 favourite complications so I'm not complaining. Add the guilloche dial and it's a real winner. 30 mins does seem short for the chrono though, makes it lose some practicality.
It is a nice watch
but can still be improved. Perhaps the 2nd generation...
Best, Kari
Thank you, Kari ...
for having to 'struggle' through the private screening. ;-)
The 5712 ~ a tried and true piece that is still stunning. My favorite Nautilus.
The 5496: is the dial just brushed or is there some kind of guilloché pattern? I would love to see it in the metal but i don't think it will ever make it to Hawaii. Love the little accent of red on the date hand.
5164: I don't mind much having a precious metal on a sport watch ~ although steel is always my first choice ~ and this red gold looks good. But Is it my eyes or does this facelifted version of the 5164 look too crowded?
Tell Tarja it would NOT be stupid to have two similar watches. If that were so we'd all be stupid. LOL You should get her that 4897/300G. Stunning dial and it would look stunning on her wrist!
How fun it must've been to see it all first hand.
Thanks, Kari.
Aloha.
Bob
True, 5712 looks as fresh as 10 years ago.
The dial of 5496P is vertically brushed. It's quite interesting with all applied RG markers. It has an interesting vintage feel.
Best to wonderful Honolulu!
Kari
I only like the Breguet numerals on the 5950 dial,
because they match the curvy case.
Thank you, Kari!
Marcelo
It is naturally a matter of taste.
Anyhow, in 2016 there are a lot of Breguet numerals available for the fans of those.
Best, Kari
Thank you for the write up!
There is a waiting list for the 5712?? It's so heavily discounted and available everywhere in the US.
Also I find your love for the platinum versions very interesting. You are one of the only patek collectors I have met who have that. For certain models the P is the best mostly due to the best dial in the series like the 5070. But the 5140p to me is a flop from this year and I can nearly guarantee it will be a poor seller, but the R with brown dial is much much nicer (and I've been told much better a seller and more loved by collectors). And For example the 5146p is the least popular metal for that model. But this is what makes collecting fun, to each his own!
Thanks again for a nice report!
Also I find your love for the platinum versions very interesting. You are one of the only patek collectors I have met who have that. For certain models the P is the best mostly due to the best dial in the series like the 5070. But the 5140p to me is a flop from this year and I can nearly guarantee it will be a poor seller, but the R with brown dial is much much nicer (and I've been told much better a seller and more loved by collectors). And For example the 5146p is the least popular metal for that model. But this is what makes collecting fun, to each his own!
Thanks again for a nice report!
That's news to me!
I did not know that 5712/1A would be "heavily discounted and available everywhere in the US". For sure that's not the case in Europe.
I am not a collector so please don't compare. All of my watches are for wearing and there are no collectors' pieces. It is true that often the platinum models have the nicest dials of the reference but that is a matter of taste again. I like the feel of platinum and also the colour compared to white gold. However, the main issues is that I need to draw the line somewhere; I can't buy steel, platinum, white gold, red gold, yellow gold... Naturally, I have several white gold watches. As an example 5575 was available only in white gold.
I do not know how 5140P will sell and probably Patek will not communicate about that. In metal the nicely done dark grey dial and bright platinum case look good together and this combination will probably look good also in 20 years time.
Speaking about 5146 it is natural that platinum is a worse seller than say 5146G. The dials are close to each others - at least till you compare those side-by-side. In this reference I like more the simple indexes than a couple of Arabic numerals; as simple as that.
Best, Kari
In fairness
By heavily I meant for patek levels 
other brands can get big discounts, for pateks my friend jokes that anything more than 5% is a big discount! But yes the 5712 sells poorly in the secondary market in the us and I know multiple dealers that have it here just sitting in the shelf or window, unsold for months. but you are not the first to mention the wait list in Europe
I didn't say investor. I said collector. One can use the word purist or lover, but I view collector as synonymous. So you get the drift. And yes I agree we all have to draw a line and cannot buy in all metals and the heft of platinum is special. I view platinum Langes and Journes with the same love you have for platinum Pateks! take care.
other brands can get big discounts, for pateks my friend jokes that anything more than 5% is a big discount! But yes the 5712 sells poorly in the secondary market in the us and I know multiple dealers that have it here just sitting in the shelf or window, unsold for months. but you are not the first to mention the wait list in EuropeI didn't say investor. I said collector. One can use the word purist or lover, but I view collector as synonymous. So you get the drift. And yes I agree we all have to draw a line and cannot buy in all metals and the heft of platinum is special. I view platinum Langes and Journes with the same love you have for platinum Pateks! take care.
In fairness
I do not care at all which reference sells well and which not. Furthermore, call it stupidity, I am not after rebates. However, I know it is a very American thing.
For me a collector and "lover" are two different things. I understand a collector as a person who is often having a theme and who admires his watches as a part of the collection. A serious collector probably will not jump to the pool with his watch or wear them all the time. I do.
All the best and take care,
Kari
I appreciate the rare watch lover that you are
So tired of seeing great Pateks sealed and in bank safes. I love that you wear and enjoy yours!
I do not see any point in having watches unused stored into safes.
Let's face a couple of facts:
- if one wants to do solid investments, i.e. blue chip stock is a better one
- watches if used are not depreciating much more than unused if they are kept in good condition, serviced and papers & boxes stored. It's good to remember that Patek can service any normally used watch to new-like
condition.
Best, Kari
I agree with your facts
Which is why I wear everything too! And invest in stocks or real estate and not watches. I also agree that sealed but unworn (meaning, likely in need of a service, with expired papers) is less attractive than recently serviced and under warranty, so we can always send to Patek and get that done. I think people remember how much certain pieces went up in the good old days (pre 2007) and how sealed pieces did the best at the auction houses. I thikn those days have changed. Also, I think people are afraid to ding or damage the watch (or even lose it) - sealed in the bank means there will be no wear and no chance it gets stolen or lost I guess. Who knows. That is the logic I am told. You and I dont buy that logic!
Nice to hear that some people share my logic.
In the end the ratio of a wristwatch is to tell the time.
Best, Kari
Thank you for your personal collector's words
Dear Kari,
I have to admit that with each picture of your report, I wondered why they forbid photographs during the presentation? All the efforts they put into new models presented to you in person are somewhat disgraced by zoo-like pictures. Once the models are out there, the pictures will end up everywhere, so why the wait?
Thank you for your words and impressions. I read lots of passion for the brand, but also a truly knowledgable collector is speaking.
Let us be part of your continued journey with PP.
5327, 5930 and 5146 are the model that I will take with me.
Kind regards,
Kolosstt
I have to admit that with each picture of your report, I wondered why they forbid photographs during the presentation? All the efforts they put into new models presented to you in person are somewhat disgraced by zoo-like pictures. Once the models are out there, the pictures will end up everywhere, so why the wait?
Thank you for your words and impressions. I read lots of passion for the brand, but also a truly knowledgable collector is speaking.
Let us be part of your continued journey with PP.
5327, 5930 and 5146 are the model that I will take with me.
Kind regards,
Kolosstt
Yes, it was amazing that photography was prohibited.
I did not believe my ears when I heard this and before going for the presentation this issue was checked by "Chief Policy officer on Duty". Lol! Sometimes Patek is a bit snobbish and old fashioned. I do not know the ratio behind the "no-photos - policy" but I am sure that people do not want to see only the press photos or there "monkeys behind the glass" -photos.
The colours of the press photographs are often giving a very wrong idea of the watch. An example is 5930G. The dial is for sure not as bright as on the photograph and it is closer to the colour of 5110P than the photos. I think the wrist shots give a much better idea of the watch than anything else. If the watch is 10 mm thick, it does not tell at all if the watch feels like a slim watch or like an alarm clock on the wrist - there are so many factors influencing to that like the shape of the lugs.
An example is the new perpetual calendar 5327. The watch is thicker than 5140 but thanks to the increased size and the design of the lugs, the watch feels were thin on the wrist.
Like said, I did not agree with Patek about their no photos -policy. But it was Patek's premises where I saw the watches as well as their watches so they had all the rights to prohibit photography. I am still very thankful that I had an opportunity to spend some two hours with the new collection!
Best, Kari
Hi Kari, As usual, a great write-up by you, and hope that your wife enjoyed 1 or 2 ...
glasses of champagne !
Thanks for providing your comments on these new pieces. Will definitely take your comments into consideration when I see the new collection eventually.
The 5131R looks great and you should add your name for it. Having a G on the left wrist and R on the right (or vice-versa) would be a good way to pay homage to the late Nicolas Hayek.
As your wife pointed out, the 4897 does look very nice.
Thanks again for the post.
Cheers,
Gordon
p.s. Did you see the 5539 ?
I will revert later to 5539
I will not put my name to the waiting list of 5131R. Such a watch belongs to a person who would wear it more. I have some issues because of the brightness of the watch and I am happy to admire it from distance.
I am not buying watches because of their value. At the same time, if I love a certain watch, I take the value into account. That is one reason why I prefer platinum over white gold. Due to the (relative) rarity, platinum holds normally its value better than the corresponding WG. Other reasons are the shine and weight of platinum plus normally the nicest dial of the reference in question.
Best
Kari
Hi Kari, your reason on why you would not put your name for 5131R is one of the reasons that makes
you a PurisT !
I am in oil and oil shipping business
and watch flipping I leave to others. Furthermore, there are people who would love to get 5131R like our Moderator so let's hope them the best of luck!
Kari