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The Omega “Louis Brandt” Perpetual Calendars
The Perpetual Calendar Prototype to which I dedicated a thread yesterday made me want to learn more about the “Louis Brandt” Perpetual Calendars.
Louis Brandt (1825-1879) was the founder in 1848 of what became Omega in 1894 under the direction of his sons.
credit: wiki.grail-watch
In 1984, Omega launched a collection dedicated to its founder: the Louis Brandt collection.
This collection was followed by a second generation of timepieces between 1991 and 1997.
It is with the timepieces of this second generation that I propose to begin our exploration of the perpetual calendars in the collection.
I. LOUIS BRANDT II DE LUXE - SECOND GENERATION PERPETUAL CALENDARS (1991 - 1997)
Case: 34 x 11 mm
Caliber 1118
1/ BARLEY GRAIN STAMPED DIAL & “LOUIS BRANDT” SIGNATURE AT 6 O'CLOCK
credit: Stories of Time (1-7), Sam Hewitt on old-omegas.com (8-9) & californiaJewelry&Coin (10-11)
2/ BARLEY GRAIN STAMPED DIAL & “OMEGA” ONLY AT 6 O'CLOCK
credit: uhren-miquel.com
3/ SMOOTH DIAL & APPLIED ROMAN NUMERALS & MARKERS
Second example gifted to someone by racing driver Michael Schumacher (born in 1969): “Thank you for your support, Michael” engraved on the caseback
credit: Roy & Sacha Davidoff (1-4) & Christie’s (5-7)
B/ REF. BA 175.0302
Probably the exact same reference despite “175.0302” instead of “175.0300”, but this is how the watch is referenced on Omega's website.
credit: Omega
C/ OPENWORK SKELETON VARIANTS
Same dimensions
Caliber 1117
1/ REF. 5349.80.83
2/ REF. 5349.80.00
3/ GEM-SET BEZEL MODEL “Louis Brandt, Skeletonized Quantième Perpétuel QS 59”
credit: Ponti (1-5), Breguetcamera (6-8), omegaforums (9) & Antiquorum (10)
II. LOUIS BRANDT I - FIRST GENERATION PERPETUAL CALENDARS (circa 1984)
Here is how the Louis Brandt collection was presented by Marco Richon in his book Omega , Biel 2007, p. 494:
“Launched during the World Congress of Omega Agents held at Inter-laken (May 20-24, 1984), this high standing collection was named "Louis Brandt" to equally honour the company founder and Omega's tradition of fine craftsmanship.
Inspired by Fernando Fontana, director of the Italian case manufacturer Lascor in Sesto Calende, the series consists exclusively of handmade complicated mechanical watches.
The scratch-proof sapphire glass back of the watertight cases lets the viewer admire the precious engraved movement and the reflections of light on the polished surfaces.
Two characteristics are shared by the entire collection: the gold winding crown with seven brilliant cut diamonds and the gold buckle of the leather bands with its diamond-adorned prong.”
Case: 34 x 11 mm
A/ BA 156.769 BZ 01 (dedicated page on Omega's website)
credit: Watches of Knightsbridge (1-6) & Antiquorum (7-8)
B/ GEM-SET BEZEL - REF. UNKNOWN
credit: Auktionen Dr. Crott
3/ BRACELET MODELS - REF. UNKNOWN
credit: Cambi (1), Bonhams (2), Antiquorum (3) & Christie’s (4-6)
I personally like the 2nd gen examples with a solid barley grain dial very much. And I prefer the variant with “Omega” only at 6 o'clock.
I find the case and lugs, in particular, very nicely designed.
What about you?
Do these watches appeal to you?
Thanks for reading.
Best, Emmanuel
Review of ref. 175.0300 by Tim Mosso
The Omega “Louis Brandt” Perpetual Calendars
The Perpetual Calendar Prototype to which I dedicated a thread yesterday made me want to learn more about the “ Louis Brandt ” Perpetual Calendars . Louis Brandt (1825-1879) was the founder in 1848 of what became Omega in 1894 under the direction of his s...
Senescence is setting in. I'd forgotten about the skeleton refs . . .
. . . and unaware until now of the unique bracelet model. (Btw, Sam Hewitt posted on this Omega forum a few times when it was launched eighteen years ago.). Thanks for posting these Omega perpetuals, Emmanuel . . . there's a lot more to Ω QP history than ...
My pleasure, Art.
I really like the 2nd gen design and it was another opportunity for me to admire some of Omega’s hidden gems. Hopefully Sam Hewitt will post again here someday! Best, Emmanuel
Unknown to me!
Nice clean layout. Very interesting how the correctors are inset into the lugs, can’t think of anything like that off the top of my head. The open work with blue accents; the first you posted; is very appealing.
Yes, the case design
and engineering of the 2nd gen is really special. And I like it! Best, Emmanuel
Thank you, Salman!
Like you, I really like the 2nd gen with barley grain dial. The case design is very appealing too. Best, Emmanuel
Oh yes! Lets not forget about this!
Saw the the first one in your photo about 10-12 years ago…amazing!
I like this 2nd gen design very much too!
I will try to see one in person someday. Best, Emmanuel
Very educational and some very attractive watches👌
I agree with you I like the solid barley grain dials Omega only. A lot of information on a dial in a 34mm case.
Yes, the design of the case and of the dial
is really very nice. I’ll try to see one in person someday. Best, Emmanuel