Montblanc TimeWalker Collection

Feb 08, 2014,09:40 AM
 

With the debut of the TimeWalker Collection in 2004, Montblanc launched a new family of watches and simultaneously defined a new design vocabulary.





The Extreme Chronograph´s DLC (regular and special edition; the two watches above on the left) features include architectonic lines, 43-millimetre case, narrow bezel and elegantly skeletonised horns, plus a large, planar dial with Arabic numerals in a distinctive, clearly contoured typography and characteristic lancet-shaped hands. This innovative look, lost none of its appeal during the preceding decade, combining masculine technology with sporty elegance and has made the TimeWalker line one of Montblanc’s most successful watch collections. Now Montblanc kicks off the second decade of this iconographic watch line with the presentation of the new TimeWalker Extreme Chronograph DLC.

We haven´t seen the two watches in the metal and therefore we won´t go in further details. Just one more note, the strap is very smooth and tough at the same time. It deserves special attention because of the complexity of its material combination and manufacturing process. The strap’s inlay is made of black “Vulcarboné” cautchouc which gives the wristband extreme strength and flexibility. Breakage-resistant twine in a colour that matches the leather’s hue is used to sew the cowhide to the upper surface of the rubber “soul”. A laborious process textures the leather and simultaneously impregnates it with a treatment that doesn’t merely coat the leather, but conjoins with it and increases its structural strength – this innovative leather treatment leads to high-performance material with special shielding properties providing extra protection for the leather against abrasion, water, and fire.

The new star of the TimeWalker Collection is the Chronograph 100.




A manually wound monopusher (column-wheel) chronograph with a balance wheel for the time indication (18.000 vibrations per hour) and a balance wheel for the chronograph (360.000 vibrations per hour). The monopusher and the column-wheel are at (more or less) 12 o´clock and the latter is shown on the front side.



The tripartite case combines various materials that are commonly used in auto racing and that accentuate the innovative character of the movement. The titanium steel bezel is coated with a layer of extremely scratch-resistant DLC (diamond-like carbon). The screwed back is crafted from titanium and bears an inset pane of sapphire crystal.



The transparent dial in sapphire crystal reveals a view of the hand finished Manufacture caliber. The case back, inset with a sapphire crystal glass and the carbon-coated case middle are both made of titanium. The stainless steel bezel has an extremely resistant DLC coating.



Still not impressed? Well, what you can see here is a serious high frequency protagonist which you won´t find that often and especially not with the same level of finishing.



One movement - two hearts.




For a watch to measure intervals with 100th-of-a-second precision, its balance must be able to vibrate at a frequency of 360,000 semi-oscillations per hour (50 hertz). In conventional chronograph wristwatches, one and the same balance drives both the ordinary time display and the chronograph mechanism for measuring elapsed intervals. Activating the “start” function creates a connection between the going train and the chronograph; this link is severed when the “stop” function is triggered. Due to its need for a frequency of 360,000 semi-oscillations per hour, the Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph 100 cannot rely on the same mechanical principle as a conventional chronograph calibre, which vibrates at a much slower pace of 2.5 or 4 hertz. This necessity prompted the watchmakers in Villeret to devise a solution with two balances. A large, massy, screw balance oscillates at a frequency of 18,000 A/h (2.5 Hz) to ensure the precise rate of the going train, while a small balance paced at the extremely high frequency of 360,000 A/h (50 Hz) regulates the chronograph function.



Rather than remaining continually in motion, the separate balance for the chronograph begins to vibrate only when the “start” function is activated by a flexible steel lamella (called fouet) mounted behind the arrowhead of the chronograph rocker. When the “stop” function is triggered, this slender steel plate arrests the tiny 50-Hz balance and holds it motionlessly in place until the next elapsed-time measurement begins.

The chronograph function is powered by its own barrel, which stores enough energy to measure intervals up to 45 minutes in duration. An elapsed-time measurement can be indefinitely extended by turning the crown anticlockwise while the chronograph is running, thus adding fresh energy to the chronograph’s barrel. The going train for the ordinary time display draws its energy from a second barrel that guarantees a 100-hour power reserve.




This ambitious chronograph function has been made possible by a patented mechanism with a new column-wheel control and a zero-reset function for the direct-drive hundredths hand.


The design and construction of the movement are extraordinarily innovative, but the manufacturing methods rigorously uphold horological tradition. Plates, bridges and steel components are painstakingly and manually fabricated and decorated with circular graining and/or Geneva waves. Edges are manually bevelled; the bevels are then polished by hand and the flanks undergo brushfinishing. Each balance-spring is individually counted by hand and by the artisan’s unaided eyes. Meticulous handcraftsmanship is likewise used for the mise en fonction of the chronograph: here, the functional surfaces of all rockers and levers are abraded to match each other with tolerances in the 100th-of-a-millimeter range, and the ruby pallet-stones are exactly adjusted in the pallets. These tasks involve countless steps and require partial disassembly and subsequent reassembly of the movement until it runs with optimal smoothness – and the timepiece satisfies the perfectionists at Montblanc.

The Montblanc TimeWalker Chronograph 100 has a diameter of 45.6mm and a height of 15.48mm. It will become available starting in the autumn of 2014 and will be produced in a strictly limited series of 100 timepieces, each of which will sell for a retail price of € 50,000.









Pro:
Uncompromising performance
Traditional manufacture craftsmanship
Price
Con:
The size is not for everybody
Price





This message has been edited by Ornatus-Mundi on 2014-02-09 07:06:13


More posts: CalibresCollection VilleretMontblanc TimeWalker CollectionTimeWalker Chronograph 100 TimeWalker Collection

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SIHH 2014 - Montblanc

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 9th, 2014-10:53
Let´s start with something good. Montblanc convinced with a strong statement in serious watchmaking and no we don´t speak about Haute Horlogerie this time. Their whole booth at SIHH was dedicated to watchmaking and showed mainly working people from the wa...  

Montblanc Meisterstück Heritage Collection

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 8th, 2014-08:48
The talk of the show was not only the booth, it was the Heritage Collection and in specific the Perpetual Calendar. More on this later. The collection exemplifies the traditional characteristics of fine Swiss matchmaking - in every detail. The time is sho...  

Can't wait to see this Meisterstuck Heritage collection!

 
 By: jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) : February 9th, 2014-17:26
Thank you Magnus for your great post! I am getting more interested in the Meisterstuck Heritage Perpetual Calendar. The bi-color of steel case and rose gold indices/hands (esp plated) affects me a bit as I would have preferred just steel or blued steel ha... 

Bi-colour seems to be rising again...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 11th, 2014-08:14
if you look at other major brands including Patek and - yes - Rolex! Best, Magnus

Montblanc TimeWalker Collection

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 8th, 2014-09:40
With the debut of the TimeWalker Collection in 2004, Montblanc launched a new family of watches and simultaneously defined a new design vocabulary. The Extreme Chronograph ´s DLC (regular and special edition; the two watches above on the left) features in...  

So Magnus, the price is a pro or a con?

 
 By: foversta : February 9th, 2014-12:33
Do you mean that the price is high (con) but rather reasonnable due to the horological contents of the watch (pro)? ;) For me, this chronograph was the most interesting Montblanc watch of the year. Thanks! Fx

Both...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 11th, 2014-08:15
Its a high prices tag for the TimeWalker collection, but a reasonable one for the complication! Best, Magnus

Montblanc Star Collection

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 9th, 2014-05:11
The Twin Moonphase is the latest member of this classic MB collection and has a diameter of 42mm: One moon – two hemispheres The timepiece is driven by the automatic Montblanc calibre MB 29.13 and houses a new type of complication that is used exclusively...  

An interesting complication...

 
 By: foversta : February 9th, 2014-12:35
At least, the Star collection finds a new dynamic thanks to this watch. Fx

Montblanc fans will like this Star Twinmoon

 
 By: jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) : February 9th, 2014-17:32
It has all the classic Star design elements and looks finely crafted for its price (like my Star Worldtime). Good piece at good price for someone who just wants a Montblanc watch that looks unique. cheers robin

Montblanc Nicolas Rieussec Collection

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 9th, 2014-06:30
The next watch has evolved into a veritable classic in MB's stable: the Nicolas Rieussec Collection . Inspired by its namesake’s first patented chronograph from 1821 it features a meanwhile iconic chronograph display in the bottom art of the dial, with tw...  

This watch is the most convincing Rieussec ever.

 
 By: foversta : February 9th, 2014-12:36
Thanks for the report and the pictures, especially the one in the dark! Fx

I still prefer the manual Rieussec, for the perfect integration of the date.

 
 By: amanico : February 9th, 2014-13:55
But this one is fun! Best, Nicolas

I so love this new Homage to NR

 
 By: jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) : February 9th, 2014-17:29
That i am pretty sure I am going to buy one! Along with Mike who declared he will be getting one too! This will be our new MB community watch!! :) Didn't realize there is a new buckle for this version. Probably better than the deployment buckle of the cur... 

Montblanc Collection Villeret 1858

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 9th, 2014-06:49
Finally, we consider the topmost collection of Montblanc - Villeret 1858 . Some have declared it dead after the appearance of a veritable Minerva movement in the new Heritage collection, but we have seen (more as a preview) a loud sign of new life: the Vi...  

That is one I have to seriously look at.

 
 By: amanico : February 9th, 2014-11:30
I only saw it through the Windows, and we didn't find the time to arrange a photo session. It is also true that the SIHH is not the best place to take the time for a good and seruous photo session. I liked what I saw, but a closer look is mandatory. Quite... 

The Minerva cases and sapphire glass

 
 By: jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) : February 9th, 2014-22:50
is so beautiful! I love your photos! I am wearing my MB Villeret today too and just looking at the case and lugs and sapphire glass makes me smile a lot. Even if I can afford the Exo-tourbillon (which I can't unless I sell something or many things!), I ca... 

Montblanc @ SIHH 2014 - conclusion

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 9th, 2014-07:11
We already started with something good and now we would like to finish with something even better. Montblanc seemed to be stronger than ever before and so far we only have seen a small part of what is coming … in the next month(s) and years. It is not tha... 

I agree with that conclusion.

 
 By: amanico : February 9th, 2014-11:33
I will also add that Montblanc needs to work on a strong identity. They already have some watches which have such an identity, I am thinking about the Rieussec, which, in my opinion, has Montblanc DNA. I am confident that the brand will amaze and surprise... 

Definitely Montblanc is showing the world

 
 By: jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) : February 9th, 2014-17:50
that the brand intends to move very fast from now on to grow its Watch Category. MB has been doing pretty well the past few years but once it hit the 80k annual production pieces, the brand reached a new stage of brand development where the low ground is ... 

Robin, I totally agree with you.

 
 By: Luis6 : February 10th, 2014-04:59
I love Montblanc for they offer various product ranges to suit personal tastes and lifestyles. Here is a not-so-well-taken quick photo to echo your words. ...  

Nice collection of MB products!

 
 By: jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) : February 10th, 2014-07:59
Nice pic Luis. Your Star Worldtime really looks great as the center of attention amongst all the other MB goodies you have. Glad you are enjoying Montblanc, the brand, the passion and the products Cheers Robin

We can't express it better: "share the passion for fine watchmaking"

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 11th, 2014-08:22
at all levels - that nails the point. It was impressive to learn that the team - although under enormous pressure - managed to consider so many details. Mr Schmiedt told us (but we forgot the exact numbers) how often they changed even tiny aspects of case... 

"a fine timepiece for everyone, at various price levels. This is ...

 
 By: small-luxury-world : February 12th, 2014-01:41
the Montblanc that I like." +1 :-) Thanks! Oliver

Thanks Oliver for your comment

 
 By: jrwong23 (aka watchthebin) : February 12th, 2014-07:38
I find this statement very in line with our Purist approach too. We appreciate and respect all fine watches at various price points from Swatch to Pateks! That's why I like Montblanc's new emphasis this year a lot. Cheers Robin

Thanks a lot Magnus & Oliver for the great post.

 
 By: foversta : February 9th, 2014-12:31
The Montblanc challenge will take a lot of time... I'm sure that they will be quite quickly successful. But becoming a collectors' brand is another story. They will face opposite forces if I may say so: the strategy to be a global player not only in watch... 

Thank you VERY much

 
 By: Luis6 : February 10th, 2014-04:44
for such an insightful, detailed, comprehensive and entertaining report. Made me love the brand even more.

"Made me love the brand even more"...

 
 By: Ornatus-Mundi : February 11th, 2014-08:17
thanks for the flowers! We liked what we saw as well and we are glad that we could convey our impressions! Magnus

Thanks, those kind of replies ...

 
 By: small-luxury-world : February 12th, 2014-01:38
are fuel for our passion and a good reason to do it again :-) Oliver

Thanks for the comprehensive coverage of the new SIHH 2014 Novelities

 
 By: mkt33 : February 10th, 2014-16:30
It looks like Montblanc is starting off a new chapter. I like the new watches esp the Rieussec Anniversary but that exotourbillon/split is something to dream for. Thanks to you Magnus and Oliver, Mike

"a new chapter"

 
 By: small-luxury-world : February 12th, 2014-01:15
Yes, but even better they don´t forget their own history and fortes (outstanding skills I have in mind). They just push it further in a good and well thought out spirit :-) Thanks, Mike! Oliver